Ns Bikes: Trailmaster Rims. Feedback Thread.

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Ns Bikes: Trailmaster Rims. Feedback Thread.
Author Message
flag Caezar
Posted: Sep 15, 2011 at 4:47 Quote
mtbtyrrell wrote:
Caezar wrote:
doublerr wrote:


Aluminium. Luckily I managed to get them warrantied by chain reaction and got all the money back in crc vouchers
Thanks. That is what I thought. I am trying to find out how many people with the failed NS rims used aluminum nips. Apparently I found out from a pro builder that for a wheel with no eyelets , brass nips are to be used only. The only case that a rim uses aluminum nips and no issues , is the atomlab rims with their nips.However the nips are to be only used on their wheel from what they state on their sight. Thanks for the reply it helps a lot. Now if we can find others with similar issues using aluminum this will prove how these wheels should be built , The only down side is if people come forward with stories of NS rims built with brass nips and still failing . NS probably assumed that people knowing how to build wheels, would automatically know not to use aluminum nips on wheels with no eyelets.Salute

mine were brass mate, it was only 32h though but my spank subrosa is like 3 times as strong as my ns was, i bought it the year they came out maybe they made some changes to the design, no idea but my ns trailmaster was weak.
Did the nips break though the rim or was it just not staying true? I have a similar problem now with my p3 alex rims not staying true after a few 180 to roll out attempts and I want to switch to a 14g 2.0mm and nips spoke. I think the 1.85 spokes are to weak and I pop a few time to time. had to buy a box of spokes just to keep up with it lol
flag wrighty84
Posted: Sep 17, 2011 at 4:00 Quote
so how do most of the people find the trailmaster then as this thread doesnt give much of a conculusion :/
flag Caezar
Posted: Sep 17, 2011 at 17:42 Quote
wrighty84 wrote:
so how do most of the people find the trailmaster then as this thread doesnt give much of a conculusion :/
More or less it was up in the air about trailmasters. Pimp look , seem good off the back but then some had issues some not at all. Seems like the build is the key. But if looking ofr a solid rim in multiple colors I suggest dartmoor Fortress . These have been rode hard and many are happy with them . I am ordering a set in chrome in a few weeks Big Grin
flag lexx
Posted: Sep 17, 2011 at 17:46 Quote
Or you can go for the generic tried and proven

Mavic 721/729

MTX 31/33
flag wrighty84
Posted: Sep 18, 2011 at 13:31 Quote
Caezar wrote:
wrighty84 wrote:
so how do most of the people find the trailmaster then as this thread doesnt give much of a conculusion :/
More or less it was up in the air about trailmasters. Pimp look , seem good off the back but then some had issues some not at all. Seems like the build is the key. But if looking ofr a solid rim in multiple colors I suggest dartmoor Fortress . These have been rode hard and many are happy with them . I am ordering a set in chrome in a few weeks Big Grin
sweet man i have looked at them before but they aren't very nice in red which is what im looking at
flag alextrickyparkin
Posted: Apr 12, 2013 at 9:09 Quote
All i want to know is are they strong coz my fundamental only lasted a few weeks n i have ordered the trailmaster 24 rim is it worth the money in paying
flag Caezar
Posted: Apr 15, 2013 at 14:01 Quote
if its the new one , Yes, they changed the design and made it cross laced. I suggest using straight 14g in the back if you plan to beat the f*ck out of it . this will insure a long lasting wheel. Dont pussy out to weight loss
flag DiegoDirtJumper
Posted: Apr 15, 2013 at 15:18 Quote
Like another guy on here, I have a set of their fundamentals and these things Are rock solid. I've bent 2 rear axles from some hard cases and the rim is still perfect. I'm a 6-1" 210lb guy that beats the $hit out of them and still true as can be. I can imagine the trail master wouldn't be the same ore better.
flag lcq4blackstar
Posted: Aug 26, 2013 at 11:47 Quote
Caezar wrote:
doublerr wrote:
Caezar wrote:
I got to ask. What nips were used in this wheel build? Brass or aluminum ?

Aluminium. Luckily I managed to get them warrantied by chain reaction and got all the money back in crc vouchers
Thanks. That is what I thought. I am trying to find out how many people with the failed NS rims used aluminum nips. Apparently I found out from a pro builder that for a wheel with no eyelets , brass nips are to be used only. The only case that a rim uses aluminum nips and no issues , is the atomlab rims with their nips.However the nips are to be only used on their wheel from what they state on their sight. Thanks for the reply it helps a lot. Now if we can find others with similar issues using aluminum this will prove how these wheels should be built , The only down side is if people come forward with stories of NS rims built with brass nips and still failing . NS probably assumed that people knowing how to build wheels, would automatically know not to use aluminum nips on wheels with no eyelets.Salute

A few things here... I've run aluminum nipples in non eyelet rims for over 10 years without issue on 20" 36H BMX wheels. I rode trails and street on a couple different sets through the years. Look at G-Sport aluminum nipples and have a look at their whole line of rims, you won't find any with eyelets. I'd bet less than 3% of 20" wheels designed for street/trails have eyelets anymore, SUN rims being the only one I can think of. I'm not saying I didn't have any issues tho. I did have nipples break at the head, all that was needed is to take off the tire and thread a new one on. There was never damage to the rims hole, ever. I've had the spoke snap in the center with double butted spokes.
Aluminum is softer than brass so if anything the brass nipple would pull through and destroy the hole in the rim before an aluminum nipple would. Aluminum would deform easier and come through the hole with less damage or would just snap the head off.
One thing is you need to use a quality aluminum nipple. I used to use spline drive but they are no longer made. I've used generic colored ones and they are shit quality and round off even with a quality Park tool. I've since used G-Sport on two other wheel builds and they are by far the best you can buy.
The reason the Atomlab aluminum nipples only work with their rims is because they are physically larger heads than any others, they wouldn't pass through on the inner hole on other rims. You could easily fix this and run them by drilling a larger hole in the inner wall of your rim tho.

 


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