Tyee 2020

Author Message
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Posted: Sep 14, 2021 at 5:02 Quote
koan91 wrote:
Hi all,

I was in touch with mr. Huber regarding the bushings for RS Coil dampener and this might be helpful to anyone trying to order it as well:

bigquotesThe 2020/2021 Tyee should have the dimensions (installation width x bore) 35x8 + 30x8

The RS has the 12.7 mm dimensions (12.7 mm bearing diameter and eye width with 15.08 mm eye hole).


The dimensions are as 2-part (2-teilig https://huber-bushings.com/produkt/buchse-2-teilig-127mm/) and 3-part (3-teilig https://huber-bushings.com/produkt/buchse-3-teilig-127mm/)version possible.


The 3-part version is slightly better, as only one component sits in the slide bearing and can be anodized in color, but is a bit more expensive.

I recommend the 35er in 3 parts, then the 30er fits better in the design (optically).

The plain bearings required directly are included.



Matching Tool 12,7 mm 12.7 mm - Ø12.7 / 15.08 mm (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yToXgCVdt4).

The tool is only designed to replace the plain bearings.

The bushings (aluminum parts) cannot be dismantled with the tool.

Useful information, thanks! Just ordered the 2-piece bushing two days ago though...

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Posted: Sep 24, 2021 at 12:09 Quote
koan91 wrote:
CowardlyBear wrote:
Just got an e-mail that they have started building up my bike. Original P.D. was 17/09 so they're actually ahead of schedule! Let's hope that all the parts are available...

[edit] Just got an e-mail that they have all parts available! [/edit]

good luck mate, my PD is 05.11.2021 Smile send some close up pictures once you get it! Smile

Mine arrived last Friday (yeah I'm a bit slow posting the pics...).

photo
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Things I learned so far:
- Overall the frame looks really nice and well built, no weird things in the assembly
- It doesn't come with Magura Shiftmix; the shifter and dropper remote are fixed with clamps
- The Newmen wheels come with tubeless tape (although I had to retape my front wheel)
- The mint green gets dirty very easily
- A big bottle hardly fits (size M)
- The rear suspension is poppy (even with the coil) so easy to pick the bike up over roots etc. but I still have to tweak the rebound settings
- Buzz from the tyre hitting the cables exiting below the bottom bracket when landing sideways or pushing hard in a turn (trying to tweak this with the small "bridge" holding the cables)
- I totally suck at applying frame protection (incapable/too impatient to get it without bubbles)

Still to do:
- Tweak suspension settings
- Chop off a bit from the bars
- Fit HC3 brake levers
- Install the Huber bushings (which have arrived as well)
- Fit some crank boots
- Have my wife re-apply some new frame protection foil

Bonus:
- I also won one of the Propain Friends Welcome Gift Boxes Big Grin

Posted: Sep 26, 2021 at 7:13 Quote
Well lads, I ordered my proapin tyee frame there early February and was given a PD date late September, early October. Has anyone else been waiting so long for their frame and gotten any updates? I know there's a big delay with everything that's going on which is totally understandable!

Cheers in advance!!

Posted: Sep 27, 2021 at 12:58 Quote
CowardlyBear wrote:
- Buzz from the tyre hitting the cables exiting below the bottom bracket when landing sideways or pushing hard in a turn (trying to tweak this with the small "bridge" holding the cables)

Forget the bridge, probably the best thing you can do is to cable tie the cables to the chainstays like this
photo

Posted: Sep 27, 2021 at 16:10 Quote
derechtefux wrote:
CowardlyBear wrote:
- Buzz from the tyre hitting the cables exiting below the bottom bracket when landing sideways or pushing hard in a turn (trying to tweak this with the small "bridge" holding the cables)

Forget the bridge, probably the best thing you can do is to cable tie the cables to the chainstays like this
photo
Indeed, we have done it the same.

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Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 0:53 Quote
derechtefux wrote:
CowardlyBear wrote:
- Buzz from the tyre hitting the cables exiting below the bottom bracket when landing sideways or pushing hard in a turn (trying to tweak this with the small "bridge" holding the cables)

Forget the bridge, probably the best thing you can do is to cable tie the cables to the chainstays like this

Thanks for the tip. Was thinking about something similar but this looks practical. As first try, I have moved the "bridge" a bit forward so it pushes the cables out a bit further. That helped so far.

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Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 0:55 Quote
cian123 wrote:
Well lads, I ordered my proapin tyee frame there early February and was given a PD date late September, early October. Has anyone else been waiting so long for their frame and gotten any updates? I know there's a big delay with everything that's going on which is totally understandable!

Cheers in advance!!

I ordered mine (Tyee CF29, size M) in June. You probably have ordered a more popular size?

Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 9:36 Quote
CowardlyBear wrote:
cian123 wrote:
Well lads, I ordered my proapin tyee frame there early February and was given a PD date late September, early October. Has anyone else been waiting so long for their frame and gotten any updates? I know there's a big delay with everything that's going on which is totally understandable!

Cheers in advance!!

I ordered mine (Tyee CF29, size M) in June. You probably have ordered a more popular size?

Mine was the Tyre AL27.5 size M, probably the most popular one haha

Posted: Sep 28, 2021 at 23:54 Quote
CowardlyBear wrote:
- Install the Huber bushings (which have arrived as well)

Please let know if you will notice any difference in noise / clicking sounds.


CowardlyBear wrote:
- Have my wife re-apply some new frame protection foil

Whip

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Posted: Sep 29, 2021 at 4:45 Quote
fontafox wrote:

Please let know if you will notice any difference in noise / clicking sounds.


Have only done one ride with the original bushings and one ride with Huber. Didn't really notice any noises (but also wasn't paying attention to that yet).

Posted: Oct 1, 2021 at 1:25 Quote
Anyone from the UK ordered recently (since import tax changes)? Looking to pull the trigger on 29 AL but unsure about the process..

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Posted: Oct 1, 2021 at 2:13 Quote
SamClarke96 wrote:
Anyone from the UK ordered recently (since import tax changes)? Looking to pull the trigger on 29 AL but unsure about the process..

I had a warrenty replacement on a rear triangle and customs strung me for £100 for that. Luckily Propain refunded me. tup

Posted: Oct 3, 2021 at 2:51 Quote
Hi guys. Was out yesterday and noticed I have play where my seat stays attach on to the upper shock lever/rocker. In looking at the exploded view of how this is attached it would seem there is a bearing on both sides and a bushing that goes through the lever/rocker.

Anyone any idea which needs to be replaced?

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Posted: Oct 4, 2021 at 0:55 Quote
GEO147 wrote:
Hi guys. Was out yesterday and noticed I have play where my seat stays attach on to the upper shock lever/rocker. In looking at the exploded view of how this is attached it would seem there is a bearing on both sides and a bushing that goes through the lever/rocker.

Anyone any idea which needs to be replaced?

I had the same. Those bearings in th elower Pro10 link seem vunerable. It could be that your bolts just need torquing. Its worth taking it all apart, checking all the bearings and linkage, grease her up and put it back together. Smile

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Posted: Oct 4, 2021 at 3:57 Quote
wilkomtb wrote:
GEO147 wrote:
Hi guys. Was out yesterday and noticed I have play where my seat stays attach on to the upper shock lever/rocker. In looking at the exploded view of how this is attached it would seem there is a bearing on both sides and a bushing that goes through the lever/rocker.

Anyone any idea which needs to be replaced?

I had the same. Those bearings in th elower Pro10 link seem vunerable. It could be that your bolts just need torquing. Its worth taking it all apart, checking all the bearings and linkage, grease her up and put it back together. Smile

The pivot where the seatstay meets the upper rocker is different to the other 3 pivot points...it uses expanding tapered shims, so as long as the bolts are tight any movement would (should) be from the bearings.

I'd strip down all the linkages, clean, inspect bearings and reassemble...replace bearings if necessary.


 


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