.357 is a straight guage CrMo frame. Made overseas. Riot is a butted CrMo frame. Made overseas. Mob is manufactured by S&M bikes and uses Supertherm, custom swaged and drawn butted tubing. Made in US start to finish.
So there is a bit of difference in the frames even though the geometry is the same on all. That said I have owned a Riot frame and now have a Mob. The bike is simply the best geometry I have ever ridden. Everything about it is perfect. The Mob does handle differently than the Riot. It feels more compliant. The Riot was awesome but the Mob just has a better feel to it. Can't really describe the difference more than it is more compliant. Feels like the steel absorbs more vibration and impacts better.
Honestly there is nothing bad about any of them. I personally like the Mob the best and think that the finished product is just a bit better. Welds are better and the little trick stuff sets them apart. Handgun logo machined into the headtube, different frame bridges and the dropouts are a bit smaller.
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I ride a Eastern Nightrain with 24" wheels. Bought a Riot and rode it for a couple of months trying to like it because I heard so many good things about them. Finally switched back to my Nightrain frame and all felt good again. I really like the short chainstay on the nightrain. I think black markets are awesome, just not for me.
because you had it slammed and locked out all the time? that's not a problem; what's the problem?
that its not a good street fork
you have still provided no legitimate reason; plenty of people run pikes for street and while older pikes did have an arch snapping problem (regardless of spins nor footjams), newer ones do not have the same defect.
because you had it slammed and locked out all the time? that's not a problem; what's the problem?
that its not a good street fork
you have still provided no legitimate reason; plenty of people run pikes for street and while older pikes did have an arch snapping problem (regardless of spins nor footjams), newer ones do not have the same defect.
w/e dude im just saying they are not the best street fork. thats all you dont need to get offended.
you have still provided no legitimate reason; plenty of people run pikes for street and while older pikes did have an arch snapping problem (regardless of spins nor footjams), newer ones do not have the same defect.
w/e dude im just saying they are not the best street fork. thats all you dont need to get offended.
you have still provided no legitimate reason; plenty of people run pikes for street and while older pikes did have an arch snapping problem (regardless of spins nor footjams), newer ones do not have the same defect.
w/e dude im just saying they are not the best street fork. thats all you dont need to get offended.
Why not?
f*ck!!! get a pike i dont give a shit. but most people that use them for street break them.
OK, because I just wrote a long response and accidentally hit the back button, I'll make this one brief. Essentially, I've encountered two problems with my Riot.
One, the sprocket sizing restrictions, which everyone already knows about. Carter Holland notified me about this issue when I inquired about it two years ago (because my sprocket was larger than the desired 30t range). This meant that I had to microdrive my setup to keep a similar gear ratio.
Secondly, despite owning the longer 22" version of the Riot, the pedals still manage to hit the front wheel on barspins. My setup isn't particularly unorthodox either; 26" MTXs, 80mm Gold Label 2, and standard 175mm Primo Hollowbites with accompanying Tenderizers. This obviously has limiting effects because I can no longer barspin, and even tailwhips are stopped halfway through their rotation if the pedals and cranks remain in a forward position.
I'm still content with my Riot, but I would definitely like to overcome this predicament, even if that means changing frames or wheelsize.