Scott Gambler OWNERS

PB Forum :: Downhill
Scott Gambler OWNERS
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flag eskulte
Posted: Nov 24, 2015 at 13:07 Quote
mixmastamikal wrote:
TheSkult wrote:
Do any of you think that fitting 27.5 wheels in a 2014 gamblerb is a good idea?


I will let you know in a couple weeks because I am switching over right now. I bought a set of 27.5 wheels off Jensons early black friday sale that don't match my frame at all. So I decided to take the least practical approach and change the frame color. BUt I like to have something no one else does anyways.

But really to answer your question best I would ask the question of what is your primary use for the bike? If you race and want every advantage that you can get then yes the conversion may be worth it. If you are primarily riding bike park then the best set up for the bike (IMO) is to run the chain stays short with a high BB setting. I am not 100% sure but fairly certain you can only run 27.5 in long mode. But if you don't mind changing it around you can just have 2 sets of wheels and run an extra master link for a short section of chain and just be able to swap it between 26 and 27.5 for racing and bike park.

Here is pick of the current state of my bike, I will post some more pics of the build in a week when it gets back from anodizing.

Off to anodizing

I just got 2 wheelsets with the bike, 26 and 27,5. I have decided to put mud tires on the 27.5's since I will use them less and put dry tires on the 26.
flag notsosikmik
O+
Posted: Nov 24, 2015 at 13:59 Quote
stephogt wrote:
What changes?
thanxs

mixmastamikal wrote:
Do it! Good at everything with just a few minor changes.

The gambler has 2 rear axle settings, long and short, which changes the length of the chainstays. It also has 2 shock mounting positions, low and high that raise or lower the bottom bracket height. Additionally the gambler 710 has an adjustable head set that allows the user to adjust the head tube angle from 60 to 64 degrees.

The two extreme frame settings (neglecting head angle) are what I like to call race mode and bike park mode.
Race mode would be setting the axle in long position and the shock in the low setting. This makes the bike more stable at speed and track the ground well as well as keep the center of gravity low but as a result it is less "lively". So it doesn't jump and manual as easily but is nice for steep aggressive dh.
Jump mode is the axle in short position and the shock mounted in the high setting. This where I like to have it I'd I know I am primarily going to be riding flow trails and just hitting jumps. The short stays let the front come up easier and it is easier to flick around.
flag tophHATESzmbies
Posted: Nov 24, 2015 at 21:02 Quote
I've had a demo 8 for a couple of years. Now, I work at a scott dealer, and my boss said she'd love if I ordered one. You know, for showroom eye candy. Haha.
flag stephogt
Posted: Nov 25, 2015 at 8:07 Quote
Nice cant wait for my gambler to arrive!!!!!!


mixmastamikal wrote:
stephogt wrote:
What changes?
thanxs

mixmastamikal wrote:
Do it! Good at everything with just a few minor changes.

The gambler has 2 rear axle settings, long and short, which changes the length of the chainstays. It also has 2 shock mounting positions, low and high that raise or lower the bottom bracket height. Additionally the gambler 710 has an adjustable head set that allows the user to adjust the head tube angle from 60 to 64 degrees.

The two extreme frame settings (neglecting head angle) are what I like to call race mode and bike park mode.
Race mode would be setting the axle in long position and the shock in the low setting. This makes the bike more stable at speed and track the ground well as well as keep the center of gravity low but as a result it is less "lively". So it doesn't jump and manual as easily but is nice for steep aggressive dh.
Jump mode is the axle in short position and the shock mounted in the high setting. This where I like to have it I'd I know I am primarily going to be riding flow trails and just hitting jumps. The short stays let the front come up easier and it is easier to flick around.
flag laramee
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 9:33 Quote
Hi Guys

How easy is it to change the spring on my rear shock?

Easily done?

Always unsure as I usually take yt LBS

And on another note - I have a 300lb spring and weigh 225lbs - do I need 375 of even 400?

I'm not a racer.. Slow as hell but love a decent drop! Ha!
Thanks!
flag bigburd
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 9:35 Quote
laramee wrote:
Hi Guys

How easy is it to change the spring on my rear shock?

Easily done?

Always unsure as I usually take yt LBS

And on another note - I have a 300lb spring and weigh 225lbs - do I need 375 of even 400?

I'm not a racer.. Slow as hell but love a decent drop! Ha!
Thanks!

Pretty easy to swap springs generally , about the spring weight , how much sag do you currently get ? Do you bottom out regular ? Do you not reach full travel often?
flag laramee
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 9:36 Quote
kmayHD wrote:
Gonna keep an eye on that as I plan on painting mine this winter as well! And I run mine just as you mentioned, short stays, high bb, works best for me. I think if I wanted to go 650b, Id just upgrade to a 650 frame that's designed around the bigger wheels.

What Colour mate?

I'm looking at going all black - Nico Vink style!
flag kmayHD
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 10:13 Quote
laramee wrote:
kmayHD wrote:
Gonna keep an eye on that as I plan on painting mine this winter as well! And I run mine just as you mentioned, short stays, high bb, works best for me. I think if I wanted to go 650b, Id just upgrade to a 650 frame that's designed around the bigger wheels.

What Colour mate?

I'm looking at going all black - Nico Vink style!

Pretty set on an olive green (army green) with all black parts.

And the shock is easy to remove and the spring is also easy to swap. Just gotta pay attention when your taking the links apart, if its still like my 13' theres spacers between the bearings and the links that need to be re installed correctly with the chamfered edge against the bearing. Spring ya just back off the preload nut, slide the spring up, then remove the bottom plate and slide the spring off the bottom of the shock. Look it up on youtube, guaranteed to be a few videos on it.
flag laramee
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 10:53 Quote
bigburd wrote:
laramee wrote:
Hi Guys

How easy is it to change the spring on my rear shock?

Easily done?

Always unsure as I usually take yt LBS

And on another note - I have a 300lb spring and weigh 225lbs - do I need 375 of even 400?

I'm not a racer.. Slow as hell but love a decent drop! Ha!
Thanks!

Pretty easy to swap springs generally , about the spring weight , how much sag do you currently get ? Do you bottom out regular ? Do you not reach full travel often?

I don't have sag % right now but know it's too much and yes I do bottom out pretty often... Resulting in bent rear rims!
flag laramee
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 10:55 Quote
kmayHD wrote:
laramee wrote:
kmayHD wrote:
Gonna keep an eye on that as I plan on painting mine this winter as well! And I run mine just as you mentioned, short stays, high bb, works best for me. I think if I wanted to go 650b, Id just upgrade to a 650 frame that's designed around the bigger wheels.

What Colour mate?

I'm looking at going all black - Nico Vink style!

Pretty set on an olive green (army green) with all black parts.

And the shock is easy to remove and the spring is also easy to swap. Just gotta pay attention when your taking the links apart, if its still like my 13' theres spacers between the bearings and the links that need to be re installed correctly with the chamfered edge against the bearing. Spring ya just back off the preload nut, slide the spring up, then remove the bottom plate and slide the spring off the bottom of the shock. Look it up on youtube, guaranteed to be a few videos on it.

Thanks mate!!
flag bigburd
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 11:17 Quote
laramee wrote:
bigburd wrote:
laramee wrote:
Hi Guys

How easy is it to change the spring on my rear shock?

Easily done?

Always unsure as I usually take yt LBS

And on another note - I have a 300lb spring and weigh 225lbs - do I need 375 of even 400?

I'm not a racer.. Slow as hell but love a decent drop! Ha!
Thanks!

Pretty easy to swap springs generally , about the spring weight , how much sag do you currently get ? Do you bottom out regular ? Do you not reach full travel often?

I don't have sag % right now but know it's too much and yes I do bottom out pretty often... Resulting in bent rear rims!
What bike do you have ?
flag laramee
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 12:50 Quote
bigburd wrote:
laramee wrote:
bigburd wrote:


Pretty easy to swap springs generally , about the spring weight , how much sag do you currently get ? Do you bottom out regular ? Do you not reach full travel often?

I don't have sag % right now but know it's too much and yes I do bottom out pretty often... Resulting in bent rear rims!
What bike do you have ?
flag laramee
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 12:51 Quote
laramee wrote:
bigburd wrote:
laramee wrote:


A Scott Gambler....
I don't have sag % right now but know it's too much and yes I do bottom out pretty often... Resulting in bent rear rims!
What bike do you have ?
flag bigburd
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 14:45 Quote
laramee wrote:
laramee wrote:
bigburd wrote:
What bike do you have ?

Ah sorry ! have you tried a spring calc yet ? I expect most will have your bike as an option, Go 50lbs heavier than it suggests, every spring calculator I have used always tells me to go around 50lbs lighter than I know is needed.

I run a 350 and get 30 percent sag, if I ran the 300 they suggest I would be sat on the floor.

Also at 225lbs you could probably do with a heavier tune on the shock
flag Ballistikz
O+
Posted: Nov 27, 2015 at 16:38 Quote
A little late to the party, but here's my new(used)winter project. Starting to take shape, just need some rims, and rubber. Then she'll be ready to rip, cant wait for next season!!


2015 Gambler Build

 


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