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2015 and up giant reign owners thread!

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2015 and up giant reign owners thread!
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flag ahchat
Posted: Nov 27, 2017 at 7:11 Quote
xviggenx wrote:
I routed my Reverb fully internal, over the BB and then out the port near the HT on the right side (viewed from the saddle). It's not that big of a deal to do by your self, keep the chain and everything shift-wise on the bike. Pull the cranks and thread the BB of, route the cable and hook everything back up again. A 30min job max for a decent home mechanic.

my frame is aluminium, s size, reign 2...will it work? if the cable go through above the bb internally?
flag Whitey1
Posted: Nov 27, 2017 at 8:37 Quote
bigquotesmy frame is aluminium, s size, reign 2...will it work? if the cable go through above the bb internally?

bigquotesPull the cranks and thread the BB of, route the cable and hook everything back up again. A 30min job max for a decent home mechanic.

Yeah it should work but I think if I was doing it again I'd probably buy a Stealth Reverb instead of the Giant cable operated dropper. I think with it being hydraulic rather than cable it'd probably be less concern about getting an absolutely smooth line past the spigot and round the corner at the B/B . Then after this I hated the Giant operating lever so by the time I bought the Wolftooth I could have got a Stealth Reverb for similar price from the big online stores. The B/B on my Reign is a pressfit, I didn't know they did a screw fit, so getting it removed unless you have the right tool to hand is a bit more hassle but not too bad. I took the opportunity to change it when I was doing the dropper fitment anyway. Definitely not too difficult, just a bit fiddly
flag theMISSIONARY
Posted: Nov 27, 2017 at 11:46 Quote
i run mine out the hole and back into the main tube.....
flag sam-hughes1
Posted: Nov 27, 2017 at 12:47 Quote
Has anyone used one of these Topeak Ninja tools on a reign, does it fit? Or alternatively the syncros matchmaker (links below)? I'm running a 2015 large alloy frame, with a monarch plus shock. Cheers

Topeak: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/topeak-ninja-tc-mountain-multitool/rp-prod147677?gs=1&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE-Shopping+QLB+Manufacturer+Desktop&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|s529sIti1_dc|pcrid|161845658788|pkw||pmt||prd|538456UK

Syncros: https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Syncros-Matchbox-Tailor-Cage_101125.htm?sku=364858&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjO_QBRC4ARIsAD2FsXOpniy_odKIKLlvfHsHXqklzO_lxhUT578thPERFrGZp8bX_Lhj588aAgt8EALw_wcB#
flag GeorgeAlbery
Posted: Nov 28, 2017 at 0:25 Quote
ahchat wrote:
Whitey1 wrote:
[Quoten]hi guys, how do you guys route the dropper? fully internal or through out the hole behind the seat tube, goes under the BB then into the under frame hole?

im having this problem, the cable rubs the lower linkage[/Quoten]

Good question. I've just fitted a Giant 150 dropper internally into my Reign and it wasn't all that pleasant an experience. The previous week I had fitted an internal post to a friend's S.C Bronson so I guess I was hoping for similar simplicity. Anyway I fitted the whole thing internally, initially starting from the bars, but try as I might I couldn't really get it in a smooth curve by trying to place it under the B/B (which has to be removed) so I've aligned mine above the B/B. Take your time and be patient getting everything as free and smooth as possible then re-build or replace the B/B. Even then I found it difficult guiding the cable smoothly through the rear suspension pivot so I started again from the seat end. I didn't see the point in going half way internally and bringing it out that hole at the back of the seat tube, but it does require patience. On another point though, does anyone stick with that horrible little lever Giant give you fort the dropper.? I tried it a few weeks and gave in but then found it difficult getting a good lever where the barrel end was on the seat. Eventually I settled for a Wolftooth, and everything is now running well though I did take a tip from on here and use fork oil on the dropper shaft before and after. Makes a huge difference.

yeah, i know it can be done fully internal, but it seems my local bike shop seems reluctant to go through the hassle...keep saying it cant be done etc..sigh..

Personally I’ve kept mine as it came out the factory, out the down tube, under the bb and into the seattube.

I did consider running it through the bb but thought it would create more problems when the time comes to replace the cable. Also I like to have as little cable around he bars as possible to keep it neat, so this way I can hide any excess cable needed to remove the seatpost under the bb. To avoid it rubbing on the linkage I just used a few of those clear stickers, although the paint is destroyed anyway thanks to little stones getting stuck in my linkage...????????‍♂️

And to answer your question about the giant remote, I swapped mine out for a crankbrothers highline remote. Makes a world of difference
flag ka81
Posted: Nov 28, 2017 at 5:51 Quote
Cable for rear derraileur is going under BB anyway, so whar's the point to route seatpost's cable fully internal (through BB)?
flag criscokid25
Posted: Nov 28, 2017 at 10:12 Quote
For those who haven't seen the new giant remote, check it out!

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/contact-switch-seatpost-1x-lever

It is a great upgrade at a fraction of the price of the wolftooth and others. Took 20 mins to install.
flag twijg
Posted: Nov 29, 2017 at 0:47 Quote
criscokid25 wrote:
For those who haven't seen the new giant remote, check it out!

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/contact-switch-seatpost-1x-lever

It is a great upgrade at a fraction of the price of the wolftooth and others. Took 20 mins to install.

It looks good but for me Wolftooth because it can be combined with both iSpec as well as Matchmaker.
Clean bars for the win Beer
flag Whitey1
Posted: Nov 29, 2017 at 8:20 Quote
bigquotesCable for rear derraileur is going under BB anyway, so whar's the point to route seatpost's cable fully internal (through BB)?

I bought the frame and built the bike up and just thought hey, internal means internal. It didn't even occur to me to take it out below and put it back in again. Would I have done it......not sure? Maybe I'm maybe making it sound a bigger job than it was. If I were to do it again it would be a 30 min job, starting from the seat and working down and forwards but now that it is in and working well I'm hoping that if I even need to change in the future it will be the internal cable only. I've already done this once when I fitted the Wolftooth lever and it was easy enough so maybe that's it now in situ for the duration. Hope so.
flag Whitey1
Posted: Nov 29, 2017 at 8:25 Quote
bigquotesIt is a great upgrade at a fraction of the price of the wolftooth and others. Took 20 mins to install.

Yeah that looks good.....in fact it's so much like the Wolftooth it probably is the same as a generic. AFAIK it wasn't available in the UK till recently but I see now the Giant outlets are selling the dropper inc. this lever (and bizarrely the older style included) for £200, which is more or less what I ended up paying for both. BUT, I still think a Reverb Stealth can be bought for less than this now on special offer from the big online stores. Hydraulic or cable? Not sure, I've a Reverb on my Trance and it's been ultra reliable for the past two years. If the Giant post proves similarly reliable I may concede cable is just as good if not better PROVIDED it comes equipped with a quality lever.
flag ka81
Posted: Nov 29, 2017 at 9:53 Quote
Can smbd post close-look photos of how it looks like 2hen cable is fully internal?..
flag mfoga
O+
Posted: Nov 29, 2017 at 19:13 Quote
Whitey1 wrote:
bigquotesCable for rear derraileur is going under BB anyway, so whar's the point to route seatpost's cable fully internal (through BB)?

I bought the frame and built the bike up and just thought hey, internal means internal. It didn't even occur to me to take it out below and put it back in again. Would I have done it......not sure? Maybe I'm maybe making it sound a bigger job than it was. If I were to do it again it would be a 30 min job, starting from the seat and working down and forwards but now that it is in and working well I'm hoping that if I even need to change in the future it will be the internal cable only. I've already done this once when I fitted the Wolftooth lever and it was easy enough so maybe that's it now in situ for the duration. Hope so.
the second time is easy, you use tape to attach the old housing to the new housing and pull.
flag fiftypercentsure
Posted: Nov 29, 2017 at 20:05 Quote
sam-hughes1 wrote:
Has anyone used one of these Topeak Ninja tools on a reign, does it fit? Or alternatively the syncros matchmaker (links below)? I'm running a 2015 large alloy frame, with a monarch plus shock. Cheers

Topeak: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/topeak-ninja-tc-mountain-multitool/rp-prod147677?gs=1&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE-Shopping+QLB+Manufacturer+Desktop&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|s529sIti1_dc|pcrid|161845658788|pkw||pmt||prd|538456UK

Syncros: https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Syncros-Matchbox-Tailor-Cage_101125.htm?sku=364858&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjO_QBRC4ARIsAD2FsXOpniy_odKIKLlvfHsHXqklzO_lxhUT578thPERFrGZp8bX_Lhj588aAgt8EALw_wcB#

The Race Face Stash Tool Wrap is another option. I've been using one, in combination with a bottle cage mounted pump it takes care of everything that I used to carry in my pack.
flag reignmaker69
Posted: Nov 30, 2017 at 13:27 Quote
Looking at a new Wheel set for the reign. whats rims would you guys recommend that are light and strong in alloy?

Cheer fellow fizzer's
flag Clarkeh
Posted: Nov 30, 2017 at 13:43 Quote
reignmaker69 wrote:
Looking at a new Wheel set for the reign. whats rims would you guys recommend that are light and strong in alloy?

Cheer fellow fizzer's

Stans Flow MK3.

 


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