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Enduro Frame Talk

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Enduro Frame Talk
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flag brigand
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 16:00 Quote
lower leverage is always better in any scenario, be it XC or DH and anything in between, why do you ask?
flag marxthekittah
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 18:20 Quote
Just curiously. Need to find out what it is on my bikes now. And how would you find it? My physics teacher said measure the back triangle pivot part and put it over the part that is pivoting with the front triangle and shook part. Get what Im saying?
flag brigand
Posted: Dec 23, 2013 at 3:26 Quote
Travel÷stroke=leverage ratio

Easy peesy
flag wyatt79m
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 6:21 Quote
I was checking out the linkagedesign.blogspot and the Adhoc data is posted now, seems good to me?

="PHeller"]http://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/

Disclaimer: he hasn't analyzed the Adhoc yet, so I was just going off the other models. I think the Adhoc uses a linkage driven system ala VPP. Which could mean better characteristics.

It's my understanding that anti-squat is a function of the leverage ratio and I think (i'm no expert) of chain tension fighting compression at a certain compression levels. So some bikes, like the Norco Sight, are really resistant to pedaling forces in the first 40mm of travel, but loosen up as they go further into the travel. A bike like the Sight has tons of anti-squat at 0mm travel (something like 170%), so it pedals very stiff as long as your sitting down. The downside is that when you stand up, you obviously compress the shock, which reduce the anti-squat at that compression, and you get pedal bob. The Sight has got so much anti-squat that it doesn't go below 100% until 90mm of travel are compressed.

I think the key is to have a bike that has lots of anti-squat, but also remains active enough to get traction over rough terrain. Many have criticized DW-Link design for being "lifeless" in small bump performance.

Some people really like a bike that has consistent performance throughout it's range, and would much rather ride a bike that is active and uses a pedal platform. Knolly, Kona, FSR designs.

People praise Knolly 4x4 design because although it doesn't really have any anti-squat, it always stays planted. No matter how much power you put into those pedals, the design is not fighting you. All that power stays planted to the ground, it's just got lots of pedal bob.

Others (like me) prefer a design that doesn't need a pedal platform, as I really only want the suspension to smooth out the big hits.

Something the Devinci Troy has a flat but sufficient level of anti-squat throughout its travel. I think this means that the bike will always pedal the same way as long as your in the optimal gear. Standing or sitting, in that gear (or other specific gear ranges) it will stay flat or bob the same amount.

Some fun charts to compare:
photo

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YpVFGV-sgpw/UmpUkDOy88I/AAAAAAAAQ5Q/76snPVV84pk/s1600/Yeti+575+650B+2014_Anti-squat.gif[/Quote]
flag marxthekittah
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 6:35 Quote
So, I want to buy an Enduro frame to build up on a budget. What's a good frame for a starter?
flag PHeller
O+
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 6:43 Quote
Banshee Spitfire or Rune V2 with 650B wheels.

Specialized Stumpjumper EVO in 26 or 29" format.

Santa Cruz Heckler, Yeti 575,
flag tangaroo
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 6:45 Quote
TNFking wrote:
So, I want to buy an Enduro frame to build up on a budget. What's a good frame for a starter?

Literally, ANY frame with travel between 140 - and 165mm. You have to be more specific than that.
flag marxthekittah
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 6:45 Quote
Cool, thanks dude. Does anyone know the release date of the Stumpjumper 650b version?
flag PHeller
O+
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 6:57 Quote
Just now.

We're at now, now.

When?

Then.

When will then, be now?

Soon.
flag marxthekittah
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 6:59 Quote
Sure sounds like a Specialized thing to do. Razz But another question. What is the usual head angle on an Enduro bike, let's say on Jerome Clementz's bike, or someone of that caliber?
flag PHeller
O+
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 7:02 Quote
I know I'm not one to usually say this, but you're overthinking this.

Basically "Enduro" is the lightest bike with the most amount of suspension while still retaining good pedal efficiency. Head angles are between 65.5 and 67.5 for most. Travel between 140 and 170. Weights between 25 and 30lbs.
flag marxthekittah
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 7:04 Quote
PHeller wrote:
I know I'm not one to usually say this, but you're overthinking this.

Basically "Enduro" is the lightest bike with the most amount of suspension while still retaining good pedal efficiency. Head angles are between 65.5 and 67.5 for most. Travel between 140 and 170. Weights between 25 and 30lbs.
True, I'm just curious. I might be able to do one this summer, and get raped hard. Only two frames for it would be a Ragley Marley and a '09 Trance.
flag PHeller
O+
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 7:14 Quote
Is you Slant 650b or 26?
flag marxthekittah
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 7:19 Quote
PHeller wrote:
Is you Slant 650b or 26?
It's a 26", can be converted to 650b if so inclinded.



But if I do an enduro this summer, here is the things about my frames........... One is slacker, has a longer travel fork, but is a hard tail. My other frame is full squish, but has a shorter fork, and steeper head-tube angle. So what I would do is go there a day earlier to ride some of the stages on both bikes to see which one is the better deal for the whole enchilada
flag PHeller
O+
Posted: Apr 25, 2014 at 7:22 Quote
I'd take the slacker bike all day. You're going to get beat up but I'd think the slacker bike will be easier to control when you've been riding all day.

You may want to run a dropper post. I found that for my riding style I needed a dropper more on a hardtail than on a full suspension. I got "bucked" a few times by my seat being proper pedalling position.

 


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