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how to remove a crank without a crank puller??

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how to remove a crank without a crank puller??
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flag bruinlad
O+
Posted: May 9, 2010 at 1:10 Quote
norcofreeridderr wrote:
Scoen wrote:
no, no, no, you dont need a hammer to take off these crank.
there are two parts that make this work the crank bolt (8mm allen key) , and the threaded cap that uses a spanner to install and remove. the cap is reverse threaded. if the cap (it says Deity on it) is not installed when you back out the 8mm crank bolt your cranks wont self extract, just the bolt will come out. you can order new caps from deity through a LBS. im guessing you dont have the cap. if you cant figure it out just take it to a mechanic and pay them to do it (should be under 10 buck) and have them show you how to do it. DONT START HITTING THINGS WITH A HAMMER UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Dude if you read what I said I quoted Do not use a hammer, use a rubber mallet. And for me, my crank arms have been installed for a while so they were stuck in the splines. I didnt START HITTING THINGS WITH A HAMMER. I simply tapped the inside of the arm with a RUBBER MALLET and it loosened to crank arm enough to take it out.

I think what he meant was that you don't need a hammer or rubber mallet for that matter to loosen the arms. This is true particularly with the howitzers (w/outboard bearings) that came with the self extracting bolts.

The bolts come in two parts, the outer retaining ring/cap and the smaller bolt usually uses an 8mm allen and fits under the retaining ring/cap. I believe the howitzers use the Truvativ M12 self-extracting bolts. Better yet, contact SRAM to find out the appropriate size or part number for howitzers and have your LBS order them for you. These are the Truvativ self-extracting M12's http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesomewhere.cfm/product/310/2392/36400

Here's a more detailed description of how the self-extracting bolt works. It also gives directions on how to install (when you first install your new cranks), extract and reinstall the crank arms. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=171

For all other bb's, cranks, bolts, use proper tools such as a Park Tools self-extractor and any other brand or better yet consult your LBS for the proper tool. http://www.parktool.com/products/category.asp?cat=26

Hope this helps.
flag LBonnargent
Posted: May 10, 2010 at 10:02 Quote
Take all the bolts and all of then use a mallet... thats what i did, no marks on the crank at al. tup
flag rideonjon
Posted: May 12, 2010 at 16:53 Quote
deeeight wrote:
jedi-bike-guy wrote:
WasabiJim wrote:
its a valid question. its only held on by a single bolt so you'd think un-screw it, give it a wiggle and disco!

i have self-extracting bolts on one bike - nice!
on the other bike i use foot long lump of 4x2 and a hummer

Cranks stay on a BB spindle cause of friction. Square taper, ISIS, Octalink, Howizter, X-type, etc... They all work on friction.

It's not as easy as wiggling them off, there's a little more to it than that.

Bzzzzzzt Wrong! But thanks for playing....

Friction isn't at all what holds the cranks in place. They're called Press Fit assemblies for a reason ya know. That Press word... refers to PRESSURE. The bolt tightens the arm against the spindle, in the process the metal surfaces deform elastically against one another (this is different than plastic deformation, which is permanent). This is the case for Squares, Octa/Isis, and the Truvative powerspline BBs. External bearing cranks don't depend on friction either, they depend on one arm being clamped to the end of the spindle, which is welded or bonded to the other arm.

bzzzt wrong answer,you fail at being an internet know-it-all.friction is exactly what holds your cranks on,it also holds every other component of your bike where it should be.and i beleive the correct term is "interference fit" not press fit,you can have a press fit when parts are size for size.it's the intereference of the parts that creates friction to hold them in place,more interferance=more friction.
flag djfung
Posted: May 14, 2010 at 1:03 Quote
i know a guy who use a ball-join fork against the BB and crank. lol.that's the best one ive heard.
flag jagarcia89
O+ FL
Posted: May 14, 2010 at 10:51 Quote
djfung wrote:
i know a guy who use a ball-join fork against the BB and crank. lol.that's the best one ive heard.

close, but its a tie rod end separator and yes it works but better on non drive than drive side and only if you have metal BB cups, the cheap plastic ones on ND side will be destroyed
flag BUSTERCHERRY
Posted: May 15, 2011 at 3:59 Quote
this is going to sound totally neanderthal but i've removed about 20-30 sets of cranks arms(all square taperred) from both mountain and bmx bikes a long time ago using my trusty wooden louisville slugger 31oz hard ball bat. i would flip the bike upside down on the seat and bars, take off the front rim then three good shots as low on the crank arm as you can get and off it would come and never once even contimplated giving it a shot of wd40 beforehand. for some reason i've never damaged a single part on the bike. no bb damage, no crank arm damage- nothing. the only reason i got a crank pull was i was sick of taking the bikes outside just to remove the crank plus my louisville was started to get pretty chopped up and actually it's a bit of a loud shot that everyone can hear for miles. once i got an official puller i couldn't believe how easy it was and there was no going back to the club method. it wasn't untill much later in life that i started to wonder why nothing ever really got damaged or bent on the bike using the louisville crank remover. i'm still a bit baffled as to why and all i can come up with was maybe because of the speed of the bat impacting a stationary bike like ripping a band aid off really fast instead of slow and methodical like using pry bars or screwdrivers etc. maybe the parts might have been tougher back in the day? who knows but it always worked out with no problems at all. i'd nail one off today if i had to but i don't think carbon fiber is as forgiving as old school parts.
just my two cents give or take a penny.
flag ChloroformDate
Posted: Jun 28, 2012 at 5:21 Quote
I know this is old. I just want to say it helped me alot. I used the method of taking the bolt out and riding it til it fell off since I dont have an extractor. Came off within 10 seconds. Strangely the bolt was already loose and could be taken off with fingers.
flag jagarcia89
O+ FL
Posted: Jun 28, 2012 at 23:51 Quote
ChloroformDate wrote:
I know this is old. I just want to say it helped me alot. I used the method of taking the bolt out and riding it til it fell off since I dont have an extractor. Came off within 10 seconds. Strangely the bolt was already loose and could be taken off with fingers.

Hopefully you were taking off your crank to put on a new crank and BB, because it sounds like your crank is right about done
flag ChloroformDate
Posted: Jun 30, 2012 at 8:26 Quote
jagarcia89 wrote:
ChloroformDate wrote:
I know this is old. I just want to say it helped me alot. I used the method of taking the bolt out and riding it til it fell off since I dont have an extractor. Came off within 10 seconds. Strangely the bolt was already loose and could be taken off with fingers.

Hopefully you were taking off your crank to put on a new crank and BB, because it sounds like your crank is right about done

Yeah the crank arm fell off when I was riding and I noticed the squair part was mostly rounded off so figured its time for a new one. Do you think I will need a new bottom bracket too? I never even though of that. Im a total noob when it comes to bikes. I got it given to me so trying to fix it up a bit.
flag brodoyouevenbike
Posted: Jun 30, 2012 at 14:24 Quote
If the square was rounded and it fell off I'd say so, get some tools and greases, bikes without maintenance won't last long.
flag connen31
Posted: Jul 1, 2012 at 4:47 Quote
ChloroformDate wrote:
jagarcia89 wrote:
ChloroformDate wrote:
I know this is old. I just want to say it helped me alot. I used the method of taking the bolt out and riding it til it fell off since I dont have an extractor. Came off within 10 seconds. Strangely the bolt was already loose and could be taken off with fingers.

Hopefully you were taking off your crank to put on a new crank and BB, because it sounds like your crank is right about done

Yeah the crank arm fell off when I was riding and I noticed the squair part was mostly rounded off so figured its time for a new one. Do you think I will need a new bottom bracket too? I never even though of that. Im a total noob when it comes to bikes. I got it given to me so trying to fix it up a bit.

go introduce yourself to your local bikeshop, theres alot they can help out with tup

 


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