Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

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Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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flag staike
Posted: Sep 6, 2016 at 23:12 Quote
iforgot wrote:
rock-rod wrote:
iforgot wrote:
Can someone please measure along the stanchion tube between top of seal to bottom of lower crown ?

i can when i get home. you want the full extension measurement?

Yes please,

ThanksSmile

Also where the lower crown is in relation to the "min" mark, (want to see how much I need to reduce my stack height to run this fork)

You do know that it doesn't really matter how long the stanchions is when you want to know the axle to crown length. Axle to crown length is 581 mm (from marzocchi.com) and can only be adjusted by a few mm because of the small space available between the min mark and taper on the stanchions.
flag iforgot
Posted: Sep 7, 2016 at 6:04 Quote
staike wrote:
iforgot wrote:
rock-rod wrote:


i can when i get home. you want the full extension measurement?

Yes please,

ThanksSmile

Also where the lower crown is in relation to the "min" mark, (want to see how much I need to reduce my stack height to run this fork)

You do know that it doesn't really matter how long the stanchions is when you want to know the axle to crown length. Axle to crown length is 581 mm (from marzocchi.com) and can only be adjusted by a few mm because of the small space available between the min mark and taper on the stanchions.

Thanks, but I already knew axle-crown length, my stack height (headtube + headset) is 163mm, max stated in manual is 148mm, I wanted to know if the lower crown can be lower than the "min" mark on the stanchion tube and still have full travel.
flag sernik
Posted: Sep 8, 2016 at 0:05 Quote
I took off LSC and wanted also HSC but I twisted a little bit too much and it don't move in hands. What's the best way to fix this ?
flag shredsONyou
Posted: Sep 10, 2016 at 13:43 Quote
jewpowered wrote:
fork just came back from warranty at fox, they said the damper could not be fixed and was replaced.

it came home, was reinstalled, my buddy got a couple squishes in and then rode a long wheelie.....came down from the wheelie made a loud pop and back to square 1, no damping, no compression or rebound lol.

that was one tense call to fox!

Basically fox techs don't know what they're doing yet, or there is a load of defective parts that were offloaded in the sale

Sorry to quote this from so far back, but I just had this same thing happen to me! Landed after scrubbing a jump in the bike park (Northstar) heard a loud clank and literally lost all compression/rebound, ended my day, packed up and drove 4hrs home.

I am now trying to get in contact with them via email due to it being the weekend, but I received a email back stating they aren't accepting emails unless you are on their list. I plan on calling them Monday, but wanted to see if your buddy actually got any help from them or a fork replacement?
flag iforgot
Posted: Sep 10, 2016 at 15:48 Quote
shredsONyou, the fork was replaced,
upgraded too Smile


jewpowered wrote:
The lowers were defective causing the mounting surface for the damper to be crooked, side load forces and binding caused failure.

Fox sent out a replacement upgrade, 380 c2r2ti as they didn't have spare lowers.

So a pita, but worth it
flag shredsONyou
Posted: Sep 14, 2016 at 13:54 Quote
Filled out a RA form today after calling customer service and talking to a Fox tech. He was saying I may have to buy a new cartridge and pay for service. My fork is just barely over a year old, and was leaking from the factory in the box which was disappointing. Hopefully they get back to me and accept it as a warranty issue and get me sorted whether it be a C2R2Ti or a proper service and maintenance of my fork. I miss my bike already lol

In case others have this problem

Link for RA form: http://www.ridefox.com/service.php?m=bike&ref=topnav

Phone number: 1(831)274-6500
flag monkies
Posted: Sep 19, 2016 at 15:24 Quote
Preload cap installation

Has anyone figured out how to insert the screw (part #87) to re-attach the Preload cap? In the diagram, the screw comes from under the unit (see letter 'A' in diagram https://www.marzocchi.com/System/19262/MY2016%20-%20380%20C2R2%20TITANIUM_RF1-00.pdf...

I was riding and the Preload cap came loose, and all I have left is the cap and o-ring (the screw, spring, and ball must have bounced out [parts 87, 95 and 96, respectively]). The screw may have rattled into the unit but I don't know how to get in there...

https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/13399511/
flag monkies
Posted: Sep 20, 2016 at 8:54 Quote
mcozzy wrote:

So I had to take the damper apart without the correct spanner.
Removed the LSC knob with small allen key.
I wedged a bolt against the HCS knob to undo the 8mm nut.
photo

Then remove the HSC knob. Dont loose the springs & ball bearings from either compression knob!
Now the damper can be undone with a 26mm socket. Ok I didn't have one, but a 27mm did ok, its not that tight.
photo


Just a tip on mcozzy's instructions for removing the DBC cartridge...you don't have to take the LSC/HSC knobs off (I also did this the first time I pulled the fork apart). jewpowered mentioned to not take all the HSC setting out. But all you have to do is line up the HSC knob so that it's flush with the bolt (there are 2 open slots in the HSC knob plastic dial opposite each other). Once the HSC dial is lined up with the bolt, a cone wrench can be used to unscrew the DBC from the unit. No need to take the knobs off unless you're having issues (or you want to use a socket, in which case I think I had to access the DBC by taking off the knobs).
flag mcozzy
Posted: Sep 21, 2016 at 7:27 Quote
monkies wrote:
No need to take the knobs off unless you're having issues (or you want to use a socket, in which case I think I had to access the DBC by taking off the knobs).

Or if you dont have the correct size, or in fact any size cone wrench, as I didnt Smile
flag jazzawil
O+ FL
Posted: Sep 21, 2016 at 9:26 Quote
mcozzy wrote:
monkies wrote:
No need to take the knobs off unless you're having issues (or you want to use a socket, in which case I think I had to access the DBC by taking off the knobs).

Or if you dont have the correct size, or in fact any size cone wrench, as I didnt Smile

Pro tip-
Ok, hack tip,
3mm Allan keys fits perfectly in the gap where the cone wrench would go around the high speed adjuster. used 2 of them lengthways and they just clear the knob so you can sandwich them together with an adjustable wrench and undo it. Luckily it wasn't very tight, wasn't keen to put to much force on it
flag monkies
Posted: Sep 21, 2016 at 9:31 Quote
monkies wrote:
Preload cap installation

Has anyone figured out how to insert the screw (part #87) to re-attach the Preload cap? In the diagram, the screw comes from under the unit (see letter 'A' in diagram https://www.marzocchi.com/System/19262/MY2016%20-%20380%20C2R2%20TITANIUM_RF1-00.pdf...

I was riding and the Preload cap came loose, and all I have left is the cap and o-ring (the screw, spring, and ball must have bounced out [parts 87, 95 and 96, respectively]). The screw may have rattled into the unit but I don't know how to get in there...

https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/13399511/

So after taking the Preload unit out, you can unscrew the top cap part (right loosey!) and the silver part will separate from the cap. Don't loose the little ball on the silver piece! But you can separate the top cap, and the silver piece, from the rod and what you're stuck with is the rod with this bolt that is supposed to thread into the Preload cap. The bolt seems to be permanently embedded into the rod unit. Now, I have no idea not to screw the top cap onto this bolt because when you try to thread the cap on, the cap sits in the slot and you can't spin it onto the bolt (and the bolt just goes back into the rod anyway).
flag ryanmj
Posted: Sep 23, 2016 at 18:09 Quote
Planning on swapping my spring, trimming the elastomer and changing the oil in both legs this weekend. The fork only has about 5 hours riding on it, do i need to change the oil in the DBC cartridge?
flag mcozzy
Posted: Sep 24, 2016 at 1:22 Quote
Probably not, but bear in mind its likely near empty from the factory! So I would run through the whole refill & bleed.
flag henkster
Posted: Sep 24, 2016 at 1:30 Quote
ryanmj wrote:
Planning on swapping my spring, trimming the elastomer and changing the oil in both legs this weekend. The fork only has about 5 hours riding on it, do i need to change the oil in the DBC cartridge?

Nope. The oil cycles though the cartridge and legs on bigger hits, so if you stay ahead of the maintainance schedule then there's no real need to separately pop new oil in there. If the oil in the legs is a disaster zone of filth then you would want to drain/refill. I just do the legs and often and everything works beautifully.

If there's oil in the leg then the cartridge level will be fine. Ignore McCozzy. He's right about a lack of oil in the legs sometimes, but unless the leg is empty then the cartridge level will self-adjust.
flag staike
Posted: Sep 24, 2016 at 3:22 Quote
I cut off 30 mm from the bottomout bumper and i can use at most of the travel now. Also had the fork serviced and it feels much better now. Spring side was dry from factory. I run 100 ml in both fork legs. The local marzocchi technician bled my cartridge and said the fork works better with 100 ml instead of 80 in the damper leg.

 


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