Giant trance?

PB Forum :: Giant
Giant trance?
Author Message
flag WonderAnt10
Posted: Oct 25, 2014 at 5:30 Quote
mtnbkrforlife wrote:
What differences did you notice? I'm hesitant to swap wheels on my Trance 27.5 1. I just can't see them making a big performance upgrade but I won't know unless I try I guess!
Well they're lighter, wider and so much stiffer. Also you can run them tubeless with the supplied tubeless kit. Plus for the money, it's hard to beat them. I work for a Giant dealer and even though they say Giant on them, they're a full DT Swiss wheel so you know they'll last, I love them. The sound from the freewheel is just loud enough to sound like a quality wheel without being ridiculous.
flag winston1192
Posted: Oct 26, 2014 at 4:03 Quote
WonderAnt10 wrote:
winston1192 wrote:
My giant trance 27.5
Here's mine

So sick dude! I wanted to do the same thing but I decided last minute I'd go for the Trance 27.5 3, just because it had some better parts in it. Are you going to upgrade the wheels? I put on the P-TRX set and made loads of a difference plus the fact I'm running them with the 12x142 rear axle.

Yes wheels will be next, unsure what to go for would of liked top of the line mavic en rims but no 27.5 as of yet on straight pull hopes so might just have to settle with flow ex's in the end and get my mate to print some custom white and blue graphics for them
flag sostokedaboutthat
Posted: Nov 10, 2014 at 10:13 Quote
any tips on installing RS reverb stealth? do the PF BB cups need to be removed?
flag WonderAnt10
Posted: Nov 10, 2014 at 10:28 Quote
sostokedaboutthat wrote:
any tips on installing RS reverb stealth? do the PF BB cups need to be removed?

No they don't. As a mechanic for a Giant shop, I've found if you take out all the rubber ports to let some light in and then you use an old gear able to fish from the head tube out to the seat tube. Once you have that done, remove the Reverb leaver from the handlebar end and then tape it to the gear cable. Then pull it through and reconnect the leaver. It MIGHT need a bleed. I've had to bleed a few, but most don't need it.
flag whattheheel
Posted: Nov 10, 2014 at 10:30 Quote
photo

Park Tools IR-1. Get one now.
flag sostokedaboutthat
Posted: Nov 10, 2014 at 11:36 Quote
Cheers…Sounds fairly easySmile
flag winston1192
Posted: Nov 11, 2014 at 2:37 Quote
sostokedaboutthat wrote:
any tips on installing RS reverb stealth? do the PF BB cups need to be removed?

I took one of my cups out and did it with out using an outer gear cable and trying to get round the bends and passed other cables was doing my head in , but I rushed the job because I was too excited to get it fitted, but like the guy said above use some tape or the little red barb and some outer gear cable will help a lot. I gave mine a good bleed since the kit was there was nice and easy and its goes from no speed at all to super quick when adjusting the return speed dial thought it was due a warranty repair but it works great
flag sostokedaboutthat
Posted: Nov 11, 2014 at 8:48 Quote
Cheers again your pain will save me pain!

Bike build almost ready! If you looking at new wheels check out easton vice xlt. Ust rims with straight pull spokes.
flag sostokedaboutthat
Posted: Nov 12, 2014 at 13:02 Quote
Another question, fitting a slx crankset to existing FSA BB92 in using one spacer (fits over spindle to push crank out a little) from the fsa crank set on the drive side and another weird spacer that's looks like it been put through the microwave on non drive side. The issue is you can seen the crank arm spacing is not the same each side. The non drive crank arm is further away from the chainstays than dive side. So I'm guessing I need another spindle spacer on the drive side.
What cranks & bottom bracket combination are you guys using with what spacers. Never had issues fitting cranks before with the simple hollow tech or GXP normal bottom brackets. Bloody bottom brackets standards have gone crazy!
flag winston1192
Posted: Nov 14, 2014 at 10:16 Quote
Right all I did when fitting the 2x slx crank and fsa bb was to fit a 1mm spacer. On the spindle on the drive side this was due to the inner ring bolts hitting my chain guide, now everything seems fine hitting all gears nice and smooth
flag sostokedaboutthat
Posted: Nov 15, 2014 at 1:35 Quote
Cheers winston, yea it seems ok now. Yet to actual test the bike yet still waiting on rear 12mm axle from useless LBS. Been waiting nearly 2wkz now-argh!

On another note I have some QR dropouts & Spare Qr mech hanger I don't need as using 12mm if anyone is interested-PM me.

photo

Here she is so far! Yes red grips have to go! Just waiting on dropper & axle and she'll be good to go.
flag Creg
Posted: Nov 15, 2014 at 22:07 Quote
Has anyone experienced creaks from the headset/stem/fork? I get a kind of click noise from the area on impacts, it's worse when the float 32s are in climb mode. I've rebuilt the headset so it's all clean and I've tried 2 stems Very confused

In the meantime here is my 2014 Trance Advanced 1. Mostly stock apart from tyres, cockpit, and 1x conversion. Next will be a set of pikes and a 57mm stroke shock Big Grin

photo
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Nov 15, 2014 at 22:08 Quote
Creg wrote:
Has anyone experienced creaks from the headset/stem/fork? I get a kind of click noise from the area on impacts, it's worse when the float 32s are in climb mode. I've rebuilt the headset so it's all clean and I've tried 2 stems Very confused

In the meantime here is my 2014 Trance Advanced 1. Mostly stock apart from tyres, cockpit, and 1x conversion. Next will be a set of pikes and a 57mm stroke shock Big Grin

photo
Its the headset, the ones giant stocks on the bikes are pretty shitty.
flag sostokedaboutthat
Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 3:39 Quote
guys i have concerns over the 142x12mm dropouts. The drive side dropout hanger rotates in position if you move rear mech i.e everytime you take off the rear wheel. Over time I can see this wearing out the hanger/dropout and working the bolt lose.

I cannot get the bolt tight enough without fear of rounding the head off and its such a tiny diameter think its a 3mm hex. Also if you look at the hanger when you install & tighten the bolt it pulls in the hanger inwards maybe 2mm, so this makes the tolerance of the rear mech (in top gear part of the mech is about 2mm away from the teeth of the 42t cog) when running a 42T cassette with a medium cage shimano XT shadow+ mech very tight!

Overall the dropout design is frankly sh**e. I had a trek remedy before and the dropouts were solid with absolute no movement possible of the hanger.

Have you guys had any issues especially when running a 42t cog on a XT cassette i.e.. 1x10 spd- i might i have to change to a 40T?
flag FuzzySockSucker
Posted: Nov 17, 2014 at 5:45 Quote
sostokedaboutthat wrote:
guys i have concerns over the 142x12mm dropouts. The drive side dropout hanger rotates in position if you move rear mech i.e everytime you take off the rear wheel. Over time I can see this wearing out the hanger/dropout and working the bolt lose.

I cannot get the bolt tight enough without fear of rounding the head off and its such a tiny diameter think its a 3mm hex. Also if you look at the hanger when you install & tighten the bolt it pulls in the hanger inwards maybe 2mm, so this makes the tolerance of the rear mech (in top gear part of the mech is about 2mm away from the teeth of the 42t cog) when running a 42T cassette with a medium cage shimano XT shadow+ mech very tight!

Overall the dropout design is frankly sh**e. I had a trek remedy before and the dropouts were solid with absolute no movement possible of the hanger.

Have you guys had any issues especially when running a 42t cog on a XT cassette i.e.. 1x10 spd- i might i have to change to a 40T?
If you remove the inner and outer hanger assembly, you'll notice that the drop out on the rear triangle is counter sunk to receive the mech hanger. If it rotates down when you pull off the wheel the screw may be bent. Mine stays put when I pull off my wheel. While it is indeed rickety, should have used two screws instead of one, when the axle is tight there is no movement. I periodically check mine and tweak the screw when it loosens. It doesn't need to be super tight, it's only real purpose is to keep the hanger in place and clocked correctly when you install your wheel. Just pick up a couple extra screws to keep handy if you're afraid of stripping the head and never use Allen keys with the ball end type tips.
As for the clearance with a 42T rear cog, I have no experience with them. I run a 34 front with the 11-36 rear. I'd consider dropping the front ring to a 30t before adding an extended range ring on the rear. Much less hassle. But this is just my personal opinion.
Cheers

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.013725
Mobile Version of Website