RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread

PB Forum :: Downhill
RockShox TOTEM / LYRIK discussion thread
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flag mrfrench2013
Posted: Mar 25, 2018 at 5:52 Quote
william4269 wrote:
soulless wrote:
mrfrench2013 wrote:
blast form the past here, I've got 2011 totem with motion control but i want to put a mission control damper in. do i need to change the rebound damper too? I've seen some listed that they work with both and others says mission control while others say motion control. anyone know the difference between the rebound dampers?
you need the mission control rebound damper if you are going to run the compression damper if are a pair of you use one or the other if won't be the same

You will be fine to use your current rebound damper with the mission control. They changed the rebound damper size after 09

Thanks, Ill give it a shot. I'm struggling to understand what would be difference anyways.
flag talkingspoon
Posted: Mar 25, 2018 at 6:38 Quote
mrfrench2013 wrote:
william4269 wrote:
soulless wrote:
you need the mission control rebound damper if you are going to run the compression damper if are a pair of you use one or the other if won't be the same

You will be fine to use your current rebound damper with the mission control. They changed the rebound damper size after 09

Thanks, Ill give it a shot. I'm struggling to understand what would be difference anyways.

Motion control is low speed comp. Mission control is high and low spd comp. Depending which model, it may or may not have flood gate. (Dh mission control)
flag mrfrench2013
Posted: Mar 25, 2018 at 6:41 Quote
william4269 wrote:
mrfrench2013 wrote:
william4269 wrote:


You will be fine to use your current rebound damper with the mission control. They changed the rebound damper size after 09

Thanks, Ill give it a shot. I'm struggling to understand what would be difference anyways.

Motion control is low speed comp. Mission control is high and low spd comp. Depending which model, it may or may not have flood gate. (Dh mission control)

ya, i meant the difference between the rebound dampners. i had a lyric with high and low speed, I'm spoiled now.
flag talkingspoon
Posted: Mar 25, 2018 at 7:23 Quote
The piston size changed and the rebound tube
flag Davidtherooster
Posted: Mar 26, 2018 at 0:47 Quote
hey I have a 2010 (i think) lyric solo air with the mico damper and I’ve found it wollowing a bit in the mid stroke and bottoming out a lot. I find it lacking in small bump sensitivity, but this is mostly from a bit of stiction. I am planning on putting the 35mm pike seals with foam rings and a whole lot of grease. But my question was that do the foam ring pike seals work? and does the pike air top cap fit so I can put some volume spacers in there? I’ve seen that some people say the threads don’t fit
flag Mike87
Posted: Mar 26, 2018 at 6:07 Quote
Davidtherooster wrote:
hey I have a 2010 (i think) lyric solo air with the mico damper and I’ve found it wollowing a bit in the mid stroke and bottoming out a lot. I find it lacking in small bump sensitivity, but this is mostly from a bit of stiction. I am planning on putting the 35mm pike seals with foam rings and a whole lot of grease. But my question was that do the foam ring pike seals work? and does the pike air top cap fit so I can put some volume spacers in there? I’ve seen that some people say the threads don’t fit

The foam rings keep bath oil up around the seal and upper part of the stanchion. Yes, the Pike seal will work and so will the top cap and tokens. It does help with mid stoke. I have two tokens in mine.
flag Davidtherooster
Posted: Mar 26, 2018 at 9:46 Quote
so I’m going to get these seals;
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-35mm-SKF-Dust-Seal-Kit
This top cap;
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Pike-Air-Top-Cap
and these tokens;
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Pike-Bottomless-Tokens-A1
Any other recommendations on stuff I should do to my fork? I’m also ordering new damper oil and lower leg oil and suspension grease any recommendations for the best stuff?
flag iffy
Posted: Mar 26, 2018 at 14:51 Quote
Manitou M-prep is pretty nifty for seals
flag naturaltalent
Posted: Mar 26, 2018 at 15:29 Quote
Davidtherooster wrote:
so I’m going to get these seals;
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-35mm-SKF-Dust-Seal-Kit
This top cap;
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Pike-Air-Top-Cap
and these tokens;
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rockshox-Pike-Bottomless-Tokens-A1
Any other recommendations on stuff I should do to my fork? I’m also ordering new damper oil and lower leg oil and suspension grease any recommendations for the best stuff?
Slickoleum is best bet for grease, pretty much universally used by most suspension manufactures and service centers, prep M is really good stuff too but has been discontinued and might be more difficult to come by. Motorex fork oil is great stuff, can also use motul factory line fork oil. Best lower lube is Motorex Supergliss but its not so easy to get in North America. I would suggest fox 20 gold as a much easier to obtain alternative. The Supergliss and fox 20 gold do tend to become a bit thick in temps below 45-50f, anything below that and you would be better off using rs 0w-30
flag cyberoptixs
Posted: Mar 26, 2018 at 16:40 Quote
Mike87 wrote:
Davidtherooster wrote:
hey I have a 2010 (i think) lyric solo air with the mico damper and I’ve found it wollowing a bit in the mid stroke and bottoming out a lot. I find it lacking in small bump sensitivity, but this is mostly from a bit of stiction. I am planning on putting the 35mm pike seals with foam rings and a whole lot of grease. But my question was that do the foam ring pike seals work? and does the pike air top cap fit so I can put some volume spacers in there? I’ve seen that some people say the threads don’t fit

The foam rings keep bath oil up around the seal and upper part of the stanchion. Yes, the Pike seal will work and so will the top cap and tokens. It does help with mid stoke. I have two tokens in mine.
I can second that like seals work I'm running them in my RC2DH with zero issues the stiction is completely gone make sure you grease the seals it will help
flag Davidtherooster
Posted: Mar 26, 2018 at 19:04 Quote
thanks for all the help! my forks going to be butter smooth Smile
flag tkdbboy
Posted: Mar 27, 2018 at 14:18 Quote
mwilliams wrote:
tkdbboy wrote:
mwilliams wrote:
Can't remember now. I just remember it being stuck, wouldn't lift up or turning in either direction. Was about to start stripping the damper to bits but then the pliers got it free. Was only last week I done it.

I think I just kept try to turn it back and forth the. It just freed up and moved.

Mine has also had the Floodgate mod so not sure if this is part of the problem?

Good news, it now turns. Gave it a bit of elbow grease.
Bad news, its a completely smooth turn with no clicking. Takes about 10 turns to get from end to end. Each end feels a bit sticky. Gotta give the dial a bit of force to move it out of min/max.
Will have to test on the trail if the adjustment is working.

Currently don't have the floodgate mod but am contemplating giving it a go to see how it feels.

There's a Circlip half way down the damper unit which gives the 'clicks' might be worth checking that hasn't come off.

So pulled out the damper ... looks like the previous owner played around with the same mod and returned it back to normal (AND by the looks of it, damaged some components). Taking off small circlip that held the button in the bottom of the damper was a PITA.
From the below photo you can see that the circlip wasn't completely flat. Then that hex ring looks pretty chewed up. Not sure how he managed to do that. Anyways can't feel much difference in the fork just riding it around in front of the house, but it definitely doesn't make that squelching sound anymore under compression. Will test on the trail this weekend.

photo


Whilst the damper was out, I rotated the LSC knob and couldn't see anything effecting the lack of clicking externally.
Do you mean there's a component inside the blue body which I should be checking?

Thanks again for your help
photo
photo
flag mwilliams
Posted: Mar 28, 2018 at 1:26 Quote
In your pics, that steel ring in the middle of the blue bit, inside the spring, you should be able to see the clicks happen as the steel ring sort it pops a bit with each click. Watch that when your turn the knob see if it's moving.
flag tkdbboy
Posted: Mar 28, 2018 at 13:41 Quote
mwilliams wrote:
In your pics, that steel ring in the middle of the blue bit, inside the spring, you should be able to see the clicks happen as the steel ring sort it pops a bit with each click. Watch that when your turn the knob see if it's moving.

Isn't that for HSC?

When I was rotating the LSC knob, there is a hole on the blue bit where I can see a shaft of some kind inside it rotating.
Other than that, I didn't see anything else moving whilst adjusting LSC
flag riish
Posted: Mar 28, 2018 at 23:45 Quote
tkdbboy wrote:
mwilliams wrote:
In your pics, that steel ring in the middle of the blue bit, inside the spring, you should be able to see the clicks happen as the steel ring sort it pops a bit with each click. Watch that when your turn the knob see if it's moving.

Isn't that for HSC?

When I was rotating the LSC knob, there is a hole on the blue bit where I can see a shaft of some kind inside it rotating.
Other than that, I didn't see anything else moving whilst adjusting LSC

That shaft is a tapered point that blocks off oil flow as it raises or lowers. See if yours is moving.

 


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