I tried a Fox RP23 on my Coiler and compared with my RC4 it felt like shite through the rock gardens on my trails. I sold it after a few weeks. I'm biased towards coil shocks because they feel better, but they do come with a weight penalty. I don't care about weight because I walk up steep hills. If I was riding my coiler as a trail bike I would certainly consider using air (the new Fox DHX replacement or RockShox Monarch Plus) as it will shave a pound off the bike weight. You can also save weight in a lot more areas such as drivetrain, tyres, rims, seatpost , saddle and converting all your bolts to Ti.
I tried a Fox RP23 on my Coiler and compared with my RC4 it felt like shite through the rock gardens on my trails. I sold it after a few weeks. I'm biased towards coil shocks because they feel better, but they do come with a weight penalty. I don't care about weight because I walk up steep hills. If I was riding my coiler as a trail bike I would certainly consider using air (the new Fox DHX replacement or RockShox Monarch Plus) as it will shave a pound off the bike weight. You can also save weight in a lot more areas such as drivetrain, tyres, rims, seatpost , saddle and converting all your bolts to Ti.
Yeah i have the same problem with mine, i'm selling it as we speak...
Here is my Kona coiler after a complete strip down, raw and new bearings, whilst waiting for my collar bone to heal...
Dang. Good job. Want to do the same with mine. Any suggestions for doing as good a job as you did? What did you use as a stripping agent? How long did it take? Also, did you finish it with anything (lacquer, wax, polish)?
Plans for my custom Kona Coiler with a new frame front triangle.
For a while now I've been looking to change my Coiler to new school geometry (longer and lower) and after comparing lots of brands with 160mm travel bikes I found the Yeti SB66 had similar geometry to my bike, but also had the two features I needed to copy : a longer front end and lower BB. The longer front end would give me the room to use an inline seat post instead of the setback and get me more in the middle of the bike while seated. In the standing/descending position the low BB and longer wheelbase would give me more stability and confidence. I put my ideas to my steel frame maker friend at Manufactured by Grelck. He took on the project and produced my new front end in 4130 CrMo. Final figures: TT 23mm longer / BB 15mm lower than the standard Kona Coiler Med 2007. We lowered the BB more than the Yeti. It's in line with the new crop of bikes with a BB height at around 340mm such as the Santa Cruz Nomad, Orbea Rallon (low setting), GT Sanction etc.. I love the result - feels perfect. .[/PI]