Hey guys, my fox float is leaking oil and its time to change the seals. I want to do it myself. Quick question. to only change the seals and add new oil will i have to use a socket wrench to take the top caps off? or to get the lowers off do i just need to remove the nuts at the bottom of the lowers. if anyone knows of some good videos that show changing oil and seals that'd be great! thanks for you help.
yeah i've looked through all that and didn't find it super helpful. I found this video and it seemed pretty good., its for a talas though, and I have a float. You think the info would carry over to the float? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t24xff7Je5Q
If you only want to replace the dust seals (and wipers and crush washers - i.e. what is in the seal kit) you only have to take the nuts off the bottom.
What oil you need depends on what model fork. Have a look in the Fox Shox Tech Centre for Consumers:
If you only want to replace the dust seals (and wipers and crush washers - i.e. what is in the seal kit) you only have to take the nuts off the bottom.
What oil you need depends on what model fork. Have a look in the Fox Shox Tech Centre for Consumers:
This page can be hard to find so mark it as a favourite.
ok thanks! yeah i only want to do dust seals and the foam ring thing/ crush washer. I'm gonna run into the shop and ask them about what oil and pick up some seals. Thanks for the help!
That chart will show the weight of oil, though there is 'red' and 'green' Fox oil that are the same weight. I just use the correct weight of oil.
I've been having good luck with the blue Enduro seals on my own bikes. If your forks are out of warranty I'd try those. There are a similar price to the Fox seals.
You'll also need the blue Fox Float Fluid for the foam rings. It doesn't come in the pack of Fox 32 dust seals. The shop should have some in a bottle and perhaps they can soak the foam rings, stick 'em in a ziplock bag and you cna install them.
A couple of things he doesn't tell you/I disagree with:
If you are removing the top caps from the crowns, you should run your socket through a linisher or sander, taking a couple of mm off the open end of the socket, so it's nice and sharp and engages better with the low profile nut which is the top cap. A normal socket can slip quite easily, and if you are applying much force, you will butcher the top cap.
In this video the guy undoes the nuts on the bottom of the stanchions, then bashes the threaded part of the pushrod to break the interference fit between it and the stanchion. This risks damaging the threads. I think it's safer to undo the nut about one turn, then leave the socket on the nut and tap the socket until the pushrod moves a bit, then turn the nut another turn, give it another tap until it moves, etc. Three turns and three taps should be enough to loosen the push rod.
Also, you don't need to use the Fox pillows of oil, or Fox fork oil, motorbike fork oil works fine.
That guy in that video is such a hack. This one is better.
Yeah, totally agree with what you say about that guy in my vid. I've just been down in the garage with my 14 year old, servicing his Boxxer WCs (Weather is sh*t here ATM, drought is finally breaking) , at 14 my boy has a better touch than that bloke.
The only reason I didn't put up the Competitive Cyclist one is it doesn't show how to get the pushrods out, and I got the sense that the OP thought he could just undo the two nuts and the lowers would come right off.
That guy in that video is such a hack. This one is better.
Yeah, totally agree with what you say about that guy in my vid. I've just been down in the garage with my 14 year old, servicing his Boxxer WCs (Weather is sh*t here ATM, drought is finally breaking) , at 14 my boy has a better touch than that bloke.
The only reason I didn't put up the Competitive Cyclist one is it doesn't show how to get the pushrods out, and I got the sense that the OP thought he could just undo the two nuts and the lowers would come right off.
yeah you take the bolts off then wack the exposed part with a wooden mallet right?