2011 Marzocchi 888 RC3 Evo setup help

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2011 Marzocchi 888 RC3 Evo setup help
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flag pbuser102331
Posted: Jul 8, 2011 at 4:14 Quote
Do they not come with va any more ? that was a great feature on the 07 model 888.
flag kram
O+
Posted: Jul 8, 2011 at 8:30 Quote
kim1 wrote:
The compression knob under the left leg is Low comp. If you need more high comp you need to add shims or more oil.
Low comp doesnt prevent you from bottoming out.

Thanks for the feedback.
Does adding more oil increase compression or does it just provide ramp up due to reduced air volume?
flag pbuser102331
Posted: Jul 8, 2011 at 8:31 Quote
kramster wrote:
kim1 wrote:
The compression knob under the left leg is Low comp. If you need more high comp you need to add shims or more oil.
Low comp doesnt prevent you from bottoming out.

Thanks for the feedback.
Does adding more oil increase compression or does it just provide ramp up due to reduced air volume?

It causes hydraulic lock out too or in english it reduces your travel.
flag chuk2rs
Posted: Jul 8, 2011 at 16:02 Quote
kramster wrote:
I occasionally bottom out my 888 somewhat hard and feel that I could use a little more bottom resistance. Is this best achieved by adding a little more oil on the spring side? I don't think I want to increase the compression damping because the fork feels perfect how I have it now 99% of the time. I don't want to reduce the sensitivity on small bumps that makes this fork so good in the first place. Can anyone tell me what the compression adjuster does? Does it just affect low speed action for controlling brake dive, or does it affect high speed as well? Am I on the right track thinking of increasing oil volume? If so any idea on how much oil to add? I feel I'm probably 5% away from having the perfect bottom resistance.
On the top of the left leg, along with the rebound dial, there is a volume adjust dial. Turning this clockwise will increase the ramping affect and reduce bottoming out. It's the outside dial
photo

Update on mine; I finally got my heavy spring. I was able to take off all the preload, and only have a couple clicks of volume. The fork feels so much better for me. Plush, yet controlled. When I first installed it, it felt harsh, and I was only getting 6" travel. Then I remembered the Volume adjust, and backed it way off. Stoked.
flag kram
O+
Posted: Jul 8, 2011 at 16:08 Quote
Cheers, I will try that.
Very stoked with this fork so far.
flag bernk
O+
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 at 12:23 Quote
Just got mine. It's soooo freakin' plush. And I thought my 2006 888 was.

What settings would you guys recommend for me to start with? I'm about 180lb and intermediate… I guess.

I have to admit I'm not really clear about what the Volume adjustment does. My old fork didn't have that, I guess it was a lot simpler. Also, what exactly is "ramp up"?

Yes, noob questions Smile
flag silverback1
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 at 12:32 Quote
Bernk, in simple terms the volume control makes the fork get harder through the stroke if you use a lot of it. it's like a bottom out control, it makes the spring rate more progressive (the further into the stroke the harder the fork gets) it has little effect on the first 75mm of travel but effects the last 75mm of travel a lot. doe's that make sense?
flag bernk
O+
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 at 12:54 Quote
silverback1 wrote:
Bernk, in simple terms the volume control makes the fork get harder through the stroke if you use a lot of it. it's like a bottom out control, it makes the spring rate more progressive (the further into the stroke the harder the fork gets) it has little effect on the first 75mm of travel but effects the last 75mm of travel a lot. doe's that make sense?

Yes! Thank you Smile So that is what "ramp up" is? So the volume changes the curve of compression. …what does that adjustment actually change the volume of? Oil? Air? Magic?
flag silverback1
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 at 13:59 Quote
yeah, it changes the volume of air above the oil in the fork. it's basically a piston with an o ring on it when you wind it down it decreases the amount of room for the air in the leg so the pressure of the air increases at a greater rate as you push through the travel, which gives you an air spring effect in the middle to last stages of travel.
To get the same effect previously you'd change the oil levels, more oil to make the forks "ramp up" or less to make them more "linear".
What you can do with this is run a soft spring for eating up brake bumps and give grip on roots, but still not bottom out on bigger hits.
That said I like to run 25% sag with the right spring, rather than have say 35% sag and have the forks ramp up to stop them bottoming out.
flag kram
O+
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 at 14:05 Quote
I have done a bit of messing with my fork now with the help form the Marz guys at crankworx and it's now at a point where I use full travel but can no longer manage to make it clunk. All without affecting small bump sensitivity. Perfect. This is what I always liked about old Marz forks.

I was told to be careful about using the volume adjust excessively to overcompensate for incorrect oil levels. I continued to turn the dial as I was bottoming and it got to a point where it was worse. They way I understand it now, is it's kind of like a rear shock where if you need more than a few turns on the spring you need to change springs, even though you can keep turning. If you need more than 5 or 6 turns on the volume adjuster, you need more oil.

First try the oil level in the spring side was upped by 150mL and it was too much. I have taken out about 70mL of it. (I weigh 150 lbs). If you're 180 Try adding 150mm of oil to start and see what happens. Use a couple of turns on the dial if it's not quite enough. If that doesn't do it, back off the volume adjuster again and add another 50ml.
flag silverback1
Posted: Aug 11, 2011 at 14:23 Quote
To be honest the the air volume adjuster isn't perfect, the reason the fork got worse was because the oil started getting past the o ring so the oil volume was in effect decreasing, I was told not to use it by Dave Garland he services the Maz forks at the world cups.
Kramster is doing it the old fashioned and reliable way by adjusting the oil level.
I just fitted a stiffer spring and backed the air volume right back on mine.
flag bernk
O+
Posted: Aug 12, 2011 at 3:45 Quote
Thanks guys, very informative. Finally understand ramp-up and oil heights! I feel like I learn more things reading online forums than I did in high school… probably not a good thing Wink

So does this fork only have one spring, in the right leg?
flag kram
O+
Posted: Aug 12, 2011 at 8:07 Quote
bernk wrote:
Thanks guys, very informative. Finally understand ramp-up and oil heights! I feel like I learn more things reading online forums than I did in high school… probably not a good thing Wink

So does this fork only have one spring, in the right leg?

Yep, one spring in the right.
flag bernk
O+
Posted: Sep 7, 2011 at 2:55 Quote
So after having ridden some park with my new fork… and after scratching the stanchion on the very first ride Frown …I feel like it may be a bit soft. It feels great riding tracks, although maybe diving a little in turns, but it bottoms out consistently on a 7' drop with a sloped (though not steep) landing.

Anyone know which spring comes as default? Is the "hard" spring the next step up or is there something in between?

On a somewhat unrelated note, how much difference would 50lbs of spring rate make on my rear shock? Unlike the fork, I feel the shock is a tiiiny bit too stiff and I can't achieve proper sag. From what I've read it's important to keep the suspension balanced so if I went up to a stiffer spring in the fork would it be too soft if I dropped down to a 400 from 450 on the shock? I probably weigh around 85-90kg max with my armour on.
flag kim1
Posted: Sep 7, 2011 at 3:05 Quote
I got the 6,5 spring in the fork and mine feels good, but remember it depends on the head angel also. Slacker headangle does not bottom out so easy. I know alot of ppl swapped the original 7,5Wt oil for 10Wt and are very happy.

 


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