I think Specialized will probably keep the status' current 26" wheels, because it creates a clear distinction between the status and the demo in Specialized's lineup.
True. Sort of like how Trek has their Session available in 26" for park riding and 650b for DH/race. Could be a similar approach with Specialized. Status for bike parks, Demo for racing and more natural DH terrain.
Well then please explain the new 650b Enduro with a 180mm boxxer? Where does that sit in the Demo to Status scale?
I think the enduro is better for more pedally tracks and a playful bike, status for overall bike park riding, and demo for hauling gnar
Would it be a good bike to buy for possibly racing downhill at a beginner/ intermediate style?
The Status is an affordable DH bike or bikepark bike. If you upgrade it like most of us on here have then it can become a full on DH weapon. Mine is setup for steep and fast tracks 62º head angle 1235mm wheelbase with a CCDB air rear shock.
sorry, I was tired when I wrote that lol, I think that u may want to do some uogrades to the rear suspension at least if you are going to be hauling down full on dh courses
Riding mainly UK DH, but wondering if slackening the headangle too much would result on a weird feeling bike. Pretty sure the status is 64.5 degrees standard.
Riding mainly UK DH, but wondering if slackening the headangle too much would result on a weird feeling bike. Pretty sure the status is 64.5 degrees standard.
Opinions?? Best place to buy??
64.5º is the standard HA on the Status I (with 170mm single crown fork) think it might be 64º with a dual crown. Slackening the HA increases the wheelbase (more stable at speed) and makes steering slower at low speeds but more stable at high speeds and allows you to ride steeper terrain more easily. You also end up riding the bike more off the front (you need to put more weight on the front so as to keep the front end from washing out), So if you only ride UK DH then you probably don't need to get your headangle sub 63º. I think you could try 63-63.5º. I'd recommend getting a Works Components headset (-1º) seeing as it is cheaper than getting a cane creek angleset. And if you want to go slacker after getting a -1º then just get 1 offset bushing (easy to put on and remove). This will allow you to go down to 63º for the steep and or faster tracks and if you remove the bushing you can go back to 63.5º. Be warned once you go slack you won't go back!
sorry, I was tired when I wrote that lol, I think that u may want to do some uogrades to the rear suspension at least if you are going to be hauling down full on dh courses
For sure it would need some tweeking...like a 200mm fork, angle set and rear shock....but the base frame is capable of any speed...which is why I asked. Probably the only things holding it back from World Cup contention is BB height and a bit of frame weight is my guess....???
sorry, I was tired when I wrote that lol, I think that u may want to do some uogrades to the rear suspension at least if you are going to be hauling down full on dh courses
For sure it would need some tweeking...like a 200mm fork, angle set and rear shock....but the base frame is capable of any speed...which is why I asked. Probably the only things holding it back from World Cup contention is BB height and a bit of frame weight is my guess....???
When you slacken the bike out the BB height goes down. Plus you can always use an offset bushing to lower BB height further. So yeah you can almost turn it into a Worldcup bike (except for the 650b rear wheel).
Riding mainly UK DH, but wondering if slackening the headangle too much would result on a weird feeling bike. Pretty sure the status is 64.5 degrees standard.
Opinions?? Best place to buy??
64.5º is the standard HA on the Status I (with 170mm single crown fork) think it might be 64º with a dual crown. Slackening the HA increases the wheelbase (more stable at speed) and makes steering slower at low speeds but more stable at high speeds and allows you to ride steeper terrain more easily. You also end up riding the bike more off the front (you need to put more weight on the front so as to keep the front end from washing out), So if you only ride UK DH then you probably don't need to get your headangle sub 63º. I think you could try 63-63.5º. I'd recommend getting a Works Components headset (-1º) seeing as it is cheaper than getting a cane creek angleset. And if you want to go slacker after getting a -1º then just get 1 offset bushing (easy to put on and remove). This will allow you to go down to 63º for the steep and or faster tracks and if you remove the bushing you can go back to 63.5º. Be warned once you go slack you won't go back!
Good stuff! Thanks for the info.
Just looking at the link you gave for the Works 1.0 degree angleset, which headtube length should i go for?
Riding mainly UK DH, but wondering if slackening the headangle too much would result on a weird feeling bike. Pretty sure the status is 64.5 degrees standard.
Opinions?? Best place to buy??
64.5º is the standard HA on the Status I (with 170mm single crown fork) think it might be 64º with a dual crown. Slackening the HA increases the wheelbase (more stable at speed) and makes steering slower at low speeds but more stable at high speeds and allows you to ride steeper terrain more easily. You also end up riding the bike more off the front (you need to put more weight on the front so as to keep the front end from washing out), So if you only ride UK DH then you probably don't need to get your headangle sub 63º. I think you could try 63-63.5º. I'd recommend getting a Works Components headset (-1º) seeing as it is cheaper than getting a cane creek angleset. And if you want to go slacker after getting a -1º then just get 1 offset bushing (easy to put on and remove). This will allow you to go down to 63º for the steep and or faster tracks and if you remove the bushing you can go back to 63.5º. Be warned once you go slack you won't go back!
Good stuff! Thanks for the info.
Just looking at the link you gave for the Works 1.0 degree angleset, which headtube length should i go for?
Thanks again
No problem. Now get out a ruler/measuring tape and measure your headtube or go to the specialized website and look it up...