2012 Kona Operator!

PB Forum :: Kona
2012 Kona Operator!
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Posted: Oct 25, 2015 at 15:36 Quote
reallybigmantis wrote:
Kona may be the last company left offering lifetime warranties on their frames. Specialized and Trek and doing away with them.
we may get our chance to use that warranty
fat part of headtube
thin part of headtube
kona supreme quality
more than a full 1/16 inch different, in TWO different thin spots around the HT.
thats OVER 60 thousandths off, in metal work, a realm where 3 or 4 thousandths off is a bad job. its also in the headtube, the most dangerous place for a bike to fail. this is what kona calls "supreme" riiiiiiiiiight.

and for f*cks sake guys, don't shoot the messenger when you don't like the news.[/Quote]

Just got a entourage frame and have noticed the same issue , any input at all if this will cause a problem? Thanks

Posted: Oct 25, 2015 at 15:50 Quote
Hey , was wondering if this can be covered under warranty? And has anyone warrantied there frame from the UK and who to contact?

Posted: Nov 22, 2015 at 15:47 Quote
Hello! I am new to the site.

I was wondering... I came across a beautiful Kona Operator 2012, extremely well preserved. Not a single scratch, ridden around the city. The guy wants 1 500 Euros. I think it is a bit overrated, I would offer 1 000 Euros. The thing that bothers me is this: can I increase the versatility of the Operator by placing larger cassette at the back and smaller chainring at the front so that I can pedal easier in urban areas? I want to make as versatile as possible and use it around the city, then use it in the woods, then on muddy roads, then on paved roads, than at the country side, then back again in the city... I am not interested in AM at all. People have been telling me that the bike is very heavy for such use, they were explicit that it can be ridden only as a DH bike. But somehow I don't believe them... Besides changing cassette and chainring, I would place some lighter tyres, carbon handle bar, carbon stem, remove the chainguide, put air spring suspension... Can it be enough to have as light as possible Operator capable of urban riding, XC and a bit of DH? I am not DH rider, but occasionally I would like to go and ride in the woods. I am more fascinated by the looks of the Operator than I am interested in DH riding.

Any advice or experience will be hugely appreciated!!!
Thank you!!!

Posted: Nov 22, 2015 at 17:18 Quote
zrnjan wrote:
Hello! I am new to the site.

I was wondering... I came across a beautiful Kona Operator 2012, extremely well preserved. Not a single scratch, ridden around the city. The guy wants 1 500 Euros. I think it is a bit overrated, I would offer 1 000 Euros. The thing that bothers me is this: can I increase the versatility of the Operator by placing larger cassette at the back and smaller chainring at the front so that I can pedal easier in urban areas? I want to make as versatile as possible and use it around the city, then use it in the woods, then on muddy roads, then on paved roads, than at the country side, then back again in the city... I am not interested in AM at all. People have been telling me that the bike is very heavy for such use, they were explicit that it can be ridden only as a DH bike. But somehow I don't believe them... Besides changing cassette and chainring, I would place some lighter tyres, carbon handle bar, carbon stem, remove the chainguide, put air spring suspension... Can it be enough to have as light as possible Operator capable of urban riding, XC and a bit of DH? I am not DH rider, but occasionally I would like to go and ride in the woods. I am more fascinated by the looks of the Operator than I am interested in DH riding.

Any advice or experience will be hugely appreciated!!!
Thank you!!!

Why not just get a Kona process 153 or something. The operator (even with modifications) wouldn't be a great bike to pedal since its geometry is still going to be that of a DH bike. I'd listen to the people you have talked to already. If you need a DH bike go ahead and get the operator. But if you want a bike that can do it all I'd recommend one of the Kona process models

Posted: Dec 14, 2015 at 14:08 Quote
Can anyone recommende a carbon crankset for my 2013 kona operator, or what size I should be looking for?
is it 170mm and 83mm bottom bracket??
thanks
shane.

Posted: Dec 14, 2015 at 14:11 Quote
sh4n3m wrote:
Can anyone recommende a carbon crankset for my 2013 kona operator, or what size I should be looking for?
is it 170mm and 83mm bottom bracket??
thanks
shane.

83mm width is right and you could go 165 or 170 on the cranks, defo not 175 though the BB is way too low.
The best carbon crankset is Raceface SixC but kinda pricey.

Posted: Dec 14, 2015 at 14:40 Quote
Shiny-side-up wrote:
sh4n3m wrote:
Can anyone recommende a carbon crankset for my 2013 kona operator, or what size I should be looking for?
is it 170mm and 83mm bottom bracket??
thanks
shane.

83mm width is right and you could go 165 or 170 on the cranks, defo not 175 though the BB is way too low.
The best carbon crankset is Raceface SixC but kinda pricey.

Thanks for the reply looking for something around £200 not sure if its bb30 or gxp

Posted: Dec 14, 2015 at 14:42 Quote
sh4n3m wrote:
Shiny-side-up wrote:
sh4n3m wrote:
Can anyone recommende a carbon crankset for my 2013 kona operator, or what size I should be looking for?
is it 170mm and 83mm bottom bracket??
thanks
shane.

83mm width is right and you could go 165 or 170 on the cranks, defo not 175 though the BB is way too low.
The best carbon crankset is Raceface SixC but kinda pricey.

Thanks for the reply looking for something around £200 not sure if its bb30 or gxp

It's regular threaded BB, look up Sram Xo carbon cranks http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-x01-dh-crankset/rp-prod117363

Posted: Dec 14, 2015 at 15:39 Quote
If you like your shins please don't but those cranks

Posted: Dec 14, 2015 at 21:36 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
If you like your shins please don't but those cranks

Whats wrong with them, get decent reviews on the site, what would you recomend for around the same money?

Posted: Dec 14, 2015 at 22:54 Quote
The pedal insert has a galvonic reaction with the resin used to in the carbon weave... They FREQUENTLY do this:
photo

The only carbon crank worth while for DH is the SixC, the new E13 LG1R may be okay but they are too new to tell.

Posted: Dec 15, 2015 at 2:09 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
The pedal insert has a galvonic reaction with the resin used to in the carbon weave... They FREQUENTLY do this:
photo

The only carbon crank worth while for DH is the SixC, the new E13 LG1R may be okay but they are too new to tell.

Shit that's not what you want, thinking of ditching carbon. How's this look?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race-face-atlas-crank-arms/rp-prod82853

Posted: Dec 15, 2015 at 2:11 Quote
RF Atlas are solid and would be a good choice, just putting it out there that i've been running Xo and Sixc carbon on different bikes for over a year without issue and i've battered the Xo off loads of rocks. Although i'm not going to defend the Xo because i have seen multiple failures on here.

Posted: Dec 15, 2015 at 4:32 Quote
Shiny-side-up wrote:
RF Atlas are solid and would be a good choice, just putting it out there that i've been running Xo and Sixc carbon on different bikes for over a year without issue and i've battered the Xo off loads of rocks. Although i'm not going to defend the Xo because i have seen multiple failures on here.
Think I will go with the Atlas looks like solid crank for the money and should save me loads of weight over my FSA Gap, will the 83mm bottom bracket it comes with fit or will I need something else?

Posted: Dec 15, 2015 at 10:31 Quote
I haven't had any issues on my DJ that has X0 cranks, nor am I worried about it.

with that said, I wouldn't get 170s. I had 165s on my operator, and wouldn't have wanted anything longer.


 


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