Why is my bike so heavy?

PB Forum :: Dirt Jumping & Street
Why is my bike so heavy?
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flag mtbmadman1
Posted: Feb 19, 2012 at 17:37 Quote
Also, what are decent mit-tier forks that I could buy without having to buy new hubs/wheels?
flag spongebomb
Posted: Feb 20, 2012 at 0:37 Quote
BigDaddyE wrote:
Glad to help tup
Threads are aluminum, Steel Reserves are steel. Used to manage a LBS and sold Haro's. Threads are jump bikes so they're built to be beat on so the frames are not XC light but aren't too bad weightwise.

Right now your wheels have basically the same axles/hubs as BMX ones. Solid steel bolt on axles. A set of wheels with QR hubs would knock some weight off w/o having to swap forks (something like:http://wheelworld.com/product/wheel-world-shimano-m475-sun-equalizer-disc-wheel-set-oem-6905.htm or http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Wheels-and-Wheelsets/Shimano-Deore-DiscRhyno-Lite-Wheelset or http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Wheels-and-Wheelsets/Shimano-Deore-DiscDs-2-Wheelset, all are under $100/set).

BUT if you can hold out or afford a fork upgrade too: Wheels-http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Wheels-and-Wheelsets/Azonic-Outlaw-Wheelset, Fork-http://www.jensonusa.com/Bicycle-Suspension-Forks/Marzocchi-Dirt-Jumper-1-Fork-11 Wheelworld has the outlaws $30 cheaper. Just search for wheels w/ 20mm axle (just the front, you need 135mm spacing in back and with the dropouts on your frame just go with a QR rear hub).

Another plus to the Outlaws are you can run them with QR's on your stock fork and then change the spacers when you upgrade your fork.

Hope that helps.

Just some things I wanted to say:
Don't get Deore hubs, they are totally shit and won't last. Also they are quick release which is messed up for street/dirt because they are super flexy and they can't hold the rear wheel in its place.
Also that azonic wheel is way overpriced IMO. It's way better to get a wheelset with NS or Dartmoor hubs (great quality, super light, super strong, fair price) on Rhyno Lite XL rims.
What hubs are you running right now? If your hubs are okay its useless to spend 200 bucks on new hubs, if you can also just spend 50 bucks on a set of Rhyno Lite / Dartmoor Raider / Dartmoor Fortress rims.

Also forkwise, getting a DJ1 fork won't save him a single gram. It's the same weight as his fork, only it has some more options in how to set the stiffness/rebound etc. For weight dropping this would be the most useless thing to do for him because he would spend a lot out money and wouldn't save a single gram.


Like I said, just start with new rims/tyres and you should be fine. That's the cheapest and most effective way to save a lot of weight and its the most effective feeling-wise.
flag BigDaddyE
Posted: Feb 20, 2012 at 13:03 Quote
spongebomb wrote:
Just some things I wanted to say:
Don't get Deore hubs, they are totally shit and won't last. Also they are quick release which is messed up for street/dirt because they are super flexy and they can't hold the rear wheel in its place.
Also that azonic wheel is way overpriced IMO. It's way better to get a wheelset with NS or Dartmoor hubs (great quality, super light, super strong, fair price) on Rhyno Lite XL rims.
What hubs are you running right now? If your hubs are okay its useless to spend 200 bucks on new hubs, if you can also just spend 50 bucks on a set of Rhyno Lite / Dartmoor Raider / Dartmoor Fortress rims.

Also forkwise, getting a DJ1 fork won't save him a single gram. It's the same weight as his fork, only it has some more options in how to set the stiffness/rebound etc. For weight dropping this would be the most useless thing to do for him because he would spend a lot out money and wouldn't save a single gram.


Like I said, just start with new rims/tyres and you should be fine. That's the cheapest and most effective way to save a lot of weight and its the most effective feeling-wise.

Not to get in a pissing match but I was giving him some examples of what's out there. Like I said before, I agree that tires are the cheapest and most effective upgrade.

Deore hubs aren't the greatest but they are better than the stock Thread hubs, especially considering they're $100 for a complete wheelset, which is about what just the rims would cost at a LBS (Ok, I'm sure online you can find them cheaper as Rhynolites wholesale are around $25-30 and most MRSP are doubled).
Aside from the fact he will need to relace the wheels if just going with rims which is great to learn to do but not something most people want to do.

Also a QR rear hub works great with the Thread frame because it has sliding dropouts. The only difference between the geared and SS versions is whether it has a der. hanger or not. Both are vertical where the wheel attaches.

As for the DJ1, according to Marz website a DJ1 is ~500 grams lighter than a DJ3. His DJ4 was a OEM fork that is even heavier. I haven't weighed them but have swapped them out before and there is a noticeable weight diff. At $200 a DJ1 is IMO a decent fork and a definite upgrade over the stock parts.

The Azonics I linked are at MSRP so yep, you can probably find them cheaper.
flag BigDaddyE
Posted: Feb 20, 2012 at 13:14 Quote
mtbmadman1 wrote:
Also, what are decent mit-tier forks that I could buy without having to buy new hubs/wheels?

You'd need something with open DO's made for a QR wheel.

Look for a RS Argyle 302 on closeout somewhere.

Here;s the thing with DJ and Street riding...it's hard on parts so going light ends up being expensive to get good parts that don't break.
Get into it with your current bike and keep upgrades reasonable then when you figure out what you like build a nice bike up. By buying parts you can swap to a different frame it's possible to build up something without breaking the bank.
flag mtbmadman1
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 1:27 Quote
Thanks man, you have been more then invaluable and helpful to me in this thread. Stay riding man, I'm sure I'll have more questions for you soon.
flag mtbmadman1
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 7:35 Quote
Sorry guys, another question, thanks again for being so helpful. How do I tell what year my forks are? I want to figure out which screws adjust what on them, I messed around with them a little the other day to see if I could figure it out, but I would like to be sure about what I'm doing with my bike and my parts.
flag BigDaddyE
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 8:29 Quote
IIRC, the only adjustment on those is preload on the top under a little rubber cover. Don't think they have rebound, that'd be on the bottom of one of the legs. If there are just what look like nuts, not an adjuster, those are what are holding the fork together (they're the ends of the damper rods) so don't take the nuts off and ride.

The preload adjustment is to stiffen or soften the initial movement of the fork.
flag spongebomb
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 10:38 Quote
Rebound can only be adjusted by changing oil: thicker/heavier oil = slower rebound, thinner/lighter oil = faster rebound
flag jonlambofgod666
Posted: Feb 21, 2012 at 13:18 Quote
Drill holes....or you could get some new tires and run some condom thin tubes.
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