I think it has nitrogen inside it instead of normal air and hence it needed to be sent to a specialist to get serviced
Do you guys know why nitrogen is used to back the ifp instead of regular air? Also, why is the pressure set to around 250psi or so? To my understanding it's to help the movement of the ifp be linked with the movement of the shaft of the shock but I'm not sure why such a high pressure is required. Does anyone have any knowledge that they'd like to bestow? Thanks!
same
not an expert but..
atmospheric air is mainly nitrogen. they use nitrogen in service/manufacture because it is an inert gas, it is supplied in pressurised tanks in a clean state with very low moisture content, so ita about as good as it gets for the intended use. regular air is just fine for the most part.
250 is probably the max end of the scale, the damper shaft displaces fluid as it enters the damper, to avoid having to have an air space and have damping oil mixing wit the air an IFP chamber is used, the extra pressure helps to stop cavitation of the fluid as it is forced through the damer circuits, (similar to foaming) and also provides a degree of ramp up.
this is also why you have bladders in some forks ( and shocks) it avoids the extra stichion from another piston/seal in the assembly.
My RockShox Reverb remote actuator or "button" on my handlebar has become really hard to press and it returns to its fully extended position very slowly after pressing it.
To be clear, I am not talking about the seatpost itself. I am talking about the remote control. Everywhere I have looked they only talk about the seat post being slow or hard to press down. I have recently bled the hydraulic line and the seat post itself works like a charm. I have had this seatpost for more than a year and I am sure it wasn't like this before.
Thanks for your help, Dan
They can get slightly bent, not enough to really notice, but enough to snag it when it goes in and out. Remove the button on the end and the rubber boot and you'll see if it's bent at all. Just be careful if you have to straighten it, they snap real easy! It may not be the solution but it's worth a look
I appreciate the reply. I checked to see if it was bent. It is not bent. I also re-bled the line and had no trouble pressing the button when I was in the process of doing so. However, it went back to being slow while returning to fully extended and hard to press when I put the screw back on it to close the hydraulic line. I am running out of ideas.
I want to change my bottom bracket because the old one is near extinction. I would like a shimano Saint because I heard only good things about it, but dont know if it will fit with the sram XO cranks. Or is the quality of sram GXP bb`s the same? My bike is a 2012 Nukeproof scalp. Thanks, Pille
I want to change my bottom bracket because the old one is near extinction. I would like a shimano Saint because I heard only good things about it, but dont know if it will fit with the sram XO cranks. Or is the quality of sram GXP bb`s the same? My bike is a 2012 Nukeproof scalp. Thanks, Pille
It will not fit your XO cranks. The GXP bottom brackets are generally the same quality. GXP cranks use a 24mm-22mm stepped spindle. The Shimano BB will only fit a 22mm spindle.
I want to change my bottom bracket because the old one is near extinction. I would like a shimano Saint because I heard only good things about it, but dont know if it will fit with the sram XO cranks. Or is the quality of sram GXP bb`s the same? My bike is a 2012 Nukeproof scalp. Thanks, Pille
It will not fit your XO cranks. The GXP bottom brackets are generally the same quality. GXP cranks use a 24mm-22mm stepped spindle. The Shimano BB will only fit a 22mm spindle.
My RockShox Reverb remote actuator or "button" on my handlebar has become really hard to press and it returns to its fully extended position very slowly after pressing it.
To be clear, I am not talking about the seatpost itself. I am talking about the remote control. Everywhere I have looked they only talk about the seat post being slow or hard to press down. I have recently bled the hydraulic line and the seat post itself works like a charm. I have had this seatpost for more than a year and I am sure it wasn't like this before.
Thanks for your help, Dan
They can get slightly bent, not enough to really notice, but enough to snag it when it goes in and out. Remove the button on the end and the rubber boot and you'll see if it's bent at all. Just be careful if you have to straighten it, they snap real easy! It may not be the solution but it's worth a look
I appreciate the reply. I checked to see if it was bent. It is not bent. I also re-bled the line and had no trouble pressing the button when I was in the process of doing so. However, it went back to being slow while returning to fully extended and hard to press when I put the screw back on it to close the hydraulic line. I am running out of ideas.
Did you bleed it with the speed screw on its slowest setting, and the button extended?
They can get slightly bent, not enough to really notice, but enough to snag it when it goes in and out. Remove the button on the end and the rubber boot and you'll see if it's bent at all. Just be careful if you have to straighten it, they snap real easy! It may not be the solution but it's worth a look
I appreciate the reply. I checked to see if it was bent. It is not bent. I also re-bled the line and had no trouble pressing the button when I was in the process of doing so. However, it went back to being slow while returning to fully extended and hard to press when I put the screw back on it to close the hydraulic line. I am running out of ideas.
Did you bleed it with the speed screw on its slowest setting, and the button extended?
I did. I rewatched the Sram video on how to bleed the reverb twice. Before and during the bleed.
I've got an old 2010 Scott Voltage YZ 0.2. I weigh about 215 pounds and in turn, go through bottom brackets like underwear. What's the strongest Euro bottom bracket I can get under say, $200 US?? Thanks!