Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 2:25 Quote
jackstack wrote:
Eddkilla wrote:
jackstack wrote:


I think it has nitrogen inside it instead of normal air and hence it needed to be sent to a specialist to get serviced

Do you guys know why nitrogen is used to back the ifp instead of regular air? Also, why is the pressure set to around 250psi or so? To my understanding it's to help the movement of the ifp be linked with the movement of the shaft of the shock but I'm not sure why such a high pressure is required. Does anyone have any knowledge that they'd like to bestow? Thanks!
same

not an expert but..

atmospheric air is mainly nitrogen. they use nitrogen in service/manufacture because it is an inert gas, it is supplied in pressurised tanks in a clean state with very low moisture content, so ita about as good as it gets for the intended use. regular air is just fine for the most part.

250 is probably the max end of the scale, the damper shaft displaces fluid as it enters the damper, to avoid having to have an air space and have damping oil mixing wit the air an IFP chamber is used, the extra pressure helps to stop cavitation of the fluid as it is forced through the damer circuits, (similar to foaming) and also provides a degree of ramp up.

this is also why you have bladders in some forks ( and shocks) it avoids the extra stichion from another piston/seal in the assembly.

O+
Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 3:39 Quote
oldmanDan wrote:
dscottycole wrote:
My RockShox Reverb remote actuator or "button" on my handlebar has become really hard to press and it returns to its fully extended position very slowly after pressing it.

To be clear, I am not talking about the seatpost itself. I am talking about the remote control. Everywhere I have looked they only talk about the seat post being slow or hard to press down. I have recently bled the hydraulic line and the seat post itself works like a charm. I have had this seatpost for more than a year and I am sure it wasn't like this before.

Thanks for your help,
Dan
They can get slightly bent, not enough to really notice, but enough to snag it when it goes in and out.
Remove the button on the end and the rubber boot and you'll see if it's bent at all. Just be careful if you have to straighten it, they snap real easy!
It may not be the solution but it's worth a look

I appreciate the reply. I checked to see if it was bent. It is not bent. I also re-bled the line and had no trouble pressing the button when I was in the process of doing so. However, it went back to being slow while returning to fully extended and hard to press when I put the screw back on it to close the hydraulic line. I am running out of ideas.

Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 12:27 Quote
I want to change my bottom bracket because the old one is near extinction.
I would like a shimano Saint because I heard only good things about it, but dont know if it will fit with the sram XO cranks. Or is the quality of sram GXP bb`s the same? My bike is a 2012 Nukeproof scalp.
Thanks, Pille

O+
Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 12:58 Quote
bauph91 wrote:
I want to change my bottom bracket because the old one is near extinction.
I would like a shimano Saint because I heard only good things about it, but dont know if it will fit with the sram XO cranks. Or is the quality of sram GXP bb`s the same? My bike is a 2012 Nukeproof scalp.
Thanks, Pille

It will not fit your XO cranks. The GXP bottom brackets are generally the same quality. GXP cranks use a 24mm-22mm stepped spindle. The Shimano BB will only fit a 22mm spindle.

Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 13:03 Quote
@Stayslacking: Thanks for the quick answer man. Think I will give the GXP a try then.

O+
Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 13:10 Quote
bauph91 wrote:
@Stayslacking: Thanks for the quick answer man. Think I will give the GXP a try then.

Awesome! let us know how it works out for you!

Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 14:27 Quote
Stayslacking wrote:
bauph91 wrote:
I want to change my bottom bracket because the old one is near extinction.
I would like a shimano Saint because I heard only good things about it, but dont know if it will fit with the sram XO cranks. Or is the quality of sram GXP bb`s the same? My bike is a 2012 Nukeproof scalp.
Thanks, Pille

It will not fit your XO cranks. The GXP bottom brackets are generally the same quality. GXP cranks use a 24mm-22mm stepped spindle. The Shimano BB will only fit a 22mm spindle.

shimano uses 24mm spindie. not 22mm

Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 14:33 Quote
Was a typo I guess he meant Shimano use a 24mm axle.

O+
Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 14:41 Quote
silverfish1974 wrote:
Was a typo I guess he meant Shimano use a 24mm axle.

Yup sorry my mistake!

Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 20:17 Quote
dscottycole wrote:
oldmanDan wrote:
dscottycole wrote:
My RockShox Reverb remote actuator or "button" on my handlebar has become really hard to press and it returns to its fully extended position very slowly after pressing it.

To be clear, I am not talking about the seatpost itself. I am talking about the remote control. Everywhere I have looked they only talk about the seat post being slow or hard to press down. I have recently bled the hydraulic line and the seat post itself works like a charm. I have had this seatpost for more than a year and I am sure it wasn't like this before.

Thanks for your help,
Dan
They can get slightly bent, not enough to really notice, but enough to snag it when it goes in and out.
Remove the button on the end and the rubber boot and you'll see if it's bent at all. Just be careful if you have to straighten it, they snap real easy!
It may not be the solution but it's worth a look

I appreciate the reply. I checked to see if it was bent. It is not bent. I also re-bled the line and had no trouble pressing the button when I was in the process of doing so. However, it went back to being slow while returning to fully extended and hard to press when I put the screw back on it to close the hydraulic line. I am running out of ideas.

Did you bleed it with the speed screw on its slowest setting, and the button extended?

O+
Posted: Dec 13, 2016 at 23:14 Quote
riish wrote:
dscottycole wrote:
oldmanDan wrote:

They can get slightly bent, not enough to really notice, but enough to snag it when it goes in and out.
Remove the button on the end and the rubber boot and you'll see if it's bent at all. Just be careful if you have to straighten it, they snap real easy!
It may not be the solution but it's worth a look

I appreciate the reply. I checked to see if it was bent. It is not bent. I also re-bled the line and had no trouble pressing the button when I was in the process of doing so. However, it went back to being slow while returning to fully extended and hard to press when I put the screw back on it to close the hydraulic line. I am running out of ideas.

Did you bleed it with the speed screw on its slowest setting, and the button extended?

I did. I rewatched the Sram video on how to bleed the reverb twice. Before and during the bleed.

O+
Posted: Dec 14, 2016 at 8:19 Quote
I've got a 2014 lyrik rc2dh. Can I replace the current air cap with the pike air cap in order to use bottomless tokens? Cheers

Posted: Dec 14, 2016 at 11:24 Quote
I've got an old 2010 Scott Voltage YZ 0.2. I weigh about 215 pounds and in turn, go through bottom brackets like underwear. What's the strongest Euro bottom bracket I can get under say, $200 US?? Thanks!

Posted: Dec 14, 2016 at 11:38 Quote
cheeverbrent wrote:
I've got a 2014 lyrik rc2dh. Can I replace the current air cap with the pike air cap in order to use bottomless tokens? Cheers

I believe so, but you will want to dummy fit everything so you know the air shaft/piston doesn't impact on the tokens at bottom out

Posted: Dec 14, 2016 at 14:52 Quote
hello, I have rockshox boxxer RC 27.5 fork tube with some light scuffing on it, is there anyway I can remove that completely, thanks.


 


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