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Help with a brief history of axle and head tube standards?

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Help with a brief history of axle and head tube standards?

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flag Schnick
Posted: Sep 19, 2012 at 10:06 Quote
So, ca 1999 or so I was living and breathing XC bikes, having been fortunate enough to grow up in Squamish. I knew every product line and technical spec inside and out.

In the last 12 years I have maybe got in one or two rides per year and done a lot of commuting, but can't say I've been involved in the bike community.

Now I seem to have time and want to get back in, and have been looking at building up a bike, but I need someone to bring me up to speed on the state of the gear.

When I last built a bike, all rear hubs were on the same spacing and a standard QR. Front axles had JUST gone to big axles for DH but XC bikes were all still on the standard QR stuff. Discs were new and the mounting configurations were not all the same between brands. Head tubes were all 1 1/8 unless you got a Cannondale.

Can someone sum up what is going on with the sizes of rear axles/hubs, front axles, head sets, disc brake mounts (are they standardized?) so that I can figure out which of my various collected parts might fit on which frames?
flag Spicy-Mike
Posted: Sep 19, 2012 at 11:42 Quote
Hey,

I was the same way you were, except for a smaller time but when I came back I was literally surprised, confused, and lost on how much the industry changed (only gone for about 4 years).

So, when I got my new bike and such and wanted to fit it with new stuff I naturally had to do all the research. Simple as, "I want to get new Handlebars, Look @ Online Shop, see they have 31.8 Clamp, Google it and Forum comes up."

Here's some history:


1) Rear Hubs/Axles:
- In the past years there has been some changes in back Hub Sizing, with 3 Standardized Sizes emerging.
- Standardized Sizes are [??x135mm], [??x150mm]. First '??' Means Bolt-Thru Size (will Talk About), 2nd is most importantly the width of your Rear Dropouts, from one Drop-Out to the other Drop-Out.
- Recently, the 142mm Width has been introduced, it still fits in a 135mm Rear Frame System or 150mm System.
- Watch this video about the [12x142mm] System, it'll explain a lot.
----> https://www.pinkbike.com/news/12x142-explained.html

- [10x135mm], the First number "10" refers to the Axle Outer Diameter that holds the Hub in place.
- 9mm QR are disappearing now days and are considered "Outdated"
- "10mm Thru-Axle" means the Hub is held by a solid stiff axle that is usually requires a Hex Key to remove/Install via Tightening.
- "12mm" is the biggest size of Rear-Axles currently out there today. You'll see them more on DH Bikes and Newer Models of Late 2011-2012+.

// 135mm is the Standard Width, 150mm is the Standard for DH Bikes (with Wider BB), 142mm can fit in 135mm.

>> You'll just have to simply measure your bike frame or gain Model information to track which characteristics fit your frame. But those are the standard measurements for any bike today. 2 Choices of Rear Width, 135mm or 150mm (then 142mm), and there are Thru-Axle Adaptors that will allow you to fit a Hub with usually a 10mm Bolt/Thru-Axle.
(For Example, Azonic Outlaw Wheels is very standardized about this process, very versatile).


2) Front Axle Sizes:
- Front Axle comes in 3 sizes today.
- 9mm QR, 15mm Thru-Axle, and 20mm Thru-Axle.
- Just like Rear Axle, but bigger, Front Axles are much more straight forward with their sizes/fitting.
- 9mm QR is outdated and is rather flexy compared to 20mm Thru Axle.
- 15mm Thru has been introduced a few years ago, it is considered "Stiffer" than 9mm QR, but the results are hard to tell indefinetly.
- 20mm Thru is the latest installment of Front-Axle sizes. It is the biggest Consumer size and the "Stiffness" is hugely increased by going to a 20mm Thru.

>> Now, Forks will list what kind of system they employ, since 15mm Thru vs. 20mm vs. 9mm QR are NOT interchangeable for the most part. Each Fork has a certain clamp system that fits that certain size. QR systems are still out there but slowly being phased out.

**Picture of Fox's Clamp System with the 20mm Thru-Axle. Notice how it doesn't use any kind of QR System, but rather is held on very securely.
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://cdn1.media.cyclingnews.futurecdn.net/photos/2007/tech/features/sea_otter_407/Fox_Racing_Shox_36_QR_closed_600.jpg
3) Headsets:
- There are 3 sizes, [1-1/8" HS], [1.5" to 1-1/8" Tapered], and [1.5" Straight].
- Almost ALL new Forks employ the 1.5" on the Bottom to 1-1/8" to the top, which is called "Tapering/Taper".
- This feature grants more stiffness, usually lighter weight, and frames that have the "Tapered Headtube" can create new frame/weld styles as a result of a bigger HT.
- Frames MUST come with either 1.5" HT Size or the Tapered HeadTube to fit Tapered Forks. And in order to fit full 1.5 Steerer Tube Fork, the HT of the bike MUST be a full 1.5", and not Tapered.
- Currently, straight 1-1/8" Headtubes are being phased out as of 2010 EXCEPT FOR DH FORKS. The great thing about having a bigger HT is that you can change the Headset and accommodate a smaller size, like the 1-1/8" Straight for DH Forks.

**Notice how the bottom of the HT fattens up**
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2010/06/29/1277836456422-u3cqruj4smtz-670-75.jpg
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.nsmb.com/images/gear/trekcreel/fox-fork-taper.jpg
4) Disc Brake Mounts
- Disc Brake Mounts are pretty much standardized. There are currently 2 Types of Mounting for the ACTUAL Disc Brakes, and one Standardized Mount for the Calipers with Variety of adaptors to get the correct fit.
- On any Disc Brake Compatible Fork, they will come with Tabs for mountain Disc Brakes.
- However, there might be small variation as all Calipers might need to have their Stack Height adjusted by using a bigger adaptor.
- There are 2 Types, Center-Lock and Normal 6-Screw On Discs. These all mount to the hub.
- Centerlock will normally be found on DH bikes, while the standard 6-Disc Mounts will be the most common.

*Notice Adaptor that rises the Caliper. (My Bike)
photo

** Notice for Center-Lock, there are no actual "6-Screw spots".
Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.backcountry.com/images/items/large/FLB/FLB0034/ST.jpg
There ya go! Sorry last part is more rushed as I have to go to school lol. But hopefully that answers most of your questions. I had the same feeling as you, but never asked and found out the hard way...

 


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