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Lowering 2011 32 fox float 140 RL?

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Lowering 2011 32 fox float 140 RL?
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Posted: Jan 28, 2013 at 20:55 Quote
Like the title states, is it possible to lower the fork from 140mm to 130 or 120 mm? And if it is possible, how do i go about doing it!!
P.S. I tried to search it but couldnt find anything on it.

O+ FL
Posted: Jan 30, 2013 at 14:08 Quote
You need a travel spacer in the spring side of your fork. Any LBS can do this

Posted: Feb 3, 2013 at 19:31 Quote
There are plenty of videos to do this. The 32 can be lowered quite a bit. I lowered mine to 80mm.

You'll need to pull out your spring and add Fox spacers or modified PVC pipe of the correct size.

The photo is dark but all those black things are 20mm wide spacers that I clipped onto my spring that I got from Derek at Oak Bay Bicycles in Victoria. They come in different sizes. A 20mm spacer lowers your fork 20mm.

80mm

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 8:07 Quote
I got brand new Fox float 32 FIT terralogic 100mm, was thinking to lower it to 80mm.
Will it be stiff and strong enough for street and dirt after lowering, or I should get 36 float how most of people recommend for that kind of usage?
thx

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 8:10 Quote
cland wrote:
I got brand new Fox float 32 FIT terralogic 100mm, was thinking to lower it to 80mm.
Will it be stiff and strong enough for street and dirt after lowering, or I should get 36 float how most of people recommend for that kind of usage?
thx
The brand new ones have the CTD damper and will only allow you to lower them 10mm.

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 8:37 Quote
trozei wrote:
cland wrote:
I got brand new Fox float 32 FIT terralogic 100mm, was thinking to lower it to 80mm.
Will it be stiff and strong enough for street and dirt after lowering, or I should get 36 float how most of people recommend for that kind of usage?
thx
The brand new ones have the CTD damper and will only allow you to lower them 10mm.
I hasn't got CTD, it is FIT, terralogic technology plus kashima coating.
can i lower these then? and will it make it stiffer or it is still the 32 and even lowered is gonna be not stiff enough?

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 8:55 Quote
cland wrote:
trozei wrote:
cland wrote:
I got brand new Fox float 32 FIT terralogic 100mm, was thinking to lower it to 80mm.
Will it be stiff and strong enough for street and dirt after lowering, or I should get 36 float how most of people recommend for that kind of usage?
thx
The brand new ones have the CTD damper and will only allow you to lower them 10mm.
I hasn't got CTD, it is FIT, terralogic technology plus kashima coating.
can i lower these then? and will it make it stiffer or it is still the 32 and even lowered is gonna be not stiff enough?
The 32 is plenty stiff enough if you're not applying a bunch of lateral forces to it. The guys in the DJ/street threads are always hucking it big and doing spin tricks. Of course they're going to need something stiff. I don't know how you ride so I won't say that you don't, but you may not. It takes an hour to lower the fork so you may as well just lower it and see if you like it. Your fork is easy to lower...

I'm doing this off of memory.

Buy 5, 7, or 10 weight fork oil. (5 for soft damping and 10 for heavy damping)

Buy 80W (motorcycle) transmission oil or actual "Float Fluid."

Buy a lowering spacer in the same amount of travel as what you want to lower, so 20mm.

Buy a 26mm socket or if you want to risk rounding off the top cap, a 26mm or adjustable wrench without teeth. Undo the left top cap. Turn the fork upside down and pour the fluids out.

Undo the 10mm nut on the bottom and pull off the crush washer. If I recall correctly, you'll first have to poke the silver threaded end into the fork with a screw driver or something long and narrow, and then pour the fluids out of that new hole on the bottom.

Once all fluids are drained, poke the screwdriver in farther, which will completely poke the spring out. Add your spacer. (the spacers are the black plastic hourglass-shaped things pictured above on the spring)

Completely clean everything.

Push the spring back in until the top piston-like thing is now sealed in the stanchion but not all the way in.

Turn the fork upside down, while holding the spring from falling out. (This is unlikely to happen, but it has happened to me and oil goes everywhere) Pour your fork oil in from the tiny hole at what's now the top of the fork.

Push the spring back down and install the crush washer and the nut.

Turn the fork around and pour in the 80W oil.

Install the top cap.

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 9:03 Quote
trozei wrote:
cland wrote:
trozei wrote:

The brand new ones have the CTD damper and will only allow you to lower them 10mm.
I hasn't got CTD, it is FIT, terralogic technology plus kashima coating.
can i lower these then? and will it make it stiffer or it is still the 32 and even lowered is gonna be not stiff enough?
The 32 is plenty stiff enough if you're not applying a bunch of lateral forces to it. The guys in the DJ/street threads are always hucking it big and doing spin tricks. Of course they're going to need something stiff. I don't know how you ride so I won't say that you don't, but you may not. It takes an hour to lower the fork so you may as well just lower it and see if you like it. Your fork is easy to lower...

I'm doing this off of memory.

Buy 5, 7, or 10 weight fork oil. (5 for soft damping and 10 for heavy damping)

Buy 80W (motorcycle) transmission oil or actual "Float Fluid."

Buy a lowering spacer in the same amount of travel as what you want to lower, so 20mm.

Buy a 26mm socket or if you want to risk rounding off the top cap, a 26mm or adjustable wrench without teeth. Undo the left top cap. Turn the fork upside down and pour the fluids out.

Undo the 10mm nut on the bottom and pull off the crush washer. If I recall correctly, you'll first have to poke the silver threaded end into the fork with a screw driver or something long and narrow, and then pour the fluids out of that new hole on the bottom.

Once all fluids are drained, poke the screwdriver in farther, which will completely poke the spring out. Add your spacer. (the spacers are the black plastic hourglass-shaped things pictured above on the spring)

Completely clean everything.

Push the spring back in until the top piston-like thing is now sealed in the stanchion but not all the way in.

Turn the fork upside down, while holding the spring from falling out. (This is unlikely to happen, but it has happened to me and oil goes everywhere) Pour your fork oil in from the tiny hole at what's now the top of the fork.

Push the spring back down and install the crush washer and the nut.

Turn the fork around and pour in the 80W oil.

Install the top cap.
hmm, im 90 kg and still learning to do spins, Even with lowering i couldnt trust them i think, seems like must sell these and find some slighty used 36 and then lower those. I was so happy for price and unused condition that is hard to sell these and then again searcing for another one.

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 9:09 Quote
Ride what you have until you find a used 36 on the BuySell that you feel comfortable buying. I don't know what bike you have but if you feel a 32 is too tall you'll definitely need to lower a 36 for it to fit properly.

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 9:15 Quote
trozei wrote:
Ride what you have until you find a used 36 on the BuySell that you feel comfortable buying. I don't know what bike you have but if you feel a 32 is too tall you'll definitely need to lower a 36 for it to fit properly.
I ride Transition Trail or Park 26" singlespeed mostly doing dirt and street, with rockshox argyle rc ( renamed older argyle's 318 ) with 100 mm travel, few hours riden on these forks, seems not stiff enough.

Posted: Jun 12, 2013 at 9:26 Quote
cland wrote:
trozei wrote:
Ride what you have until you find a used 36 on the BuySell that you feel comfortable buying. I don't know what bike you have but if you feel a 32 is too tall you'll definitely need to lower a 36 for it to fit properly.
I ride Transition Trail or Park 26" singlespeed mostly doing dirt and street, with rockshox argyle rc ( renamed older argyle's 318 ) with 100 mm travel, few hours riden on these forks, seems not stiff enough.
If an Argyle isn't stiff enough for you, a 32 will be worse. You'll want a 36.

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