Giant Glory DH 2008 Frame modern day opinions please!

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Giant Glory DH 2008 Frame modern day opinions please!
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flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jul 16, 2013 at 3:55 Quote
Just looking at moving from my Scott voltage FreeRide bike to a more DH focused bike as I seem to just do DH with no park or anything else and can't see that changing.

Would the Geometry of a Glory DH 2008 make much difference to modern setups (mostly the 65.5* head angle vs the modern 63*)?

Cheers for any help!!!
flag thereisnospoon
Posted: Jul 16, 2013 at 8:20 Quote
the geometry on the old Glory DH is decent, but the steeper HA does make it a bit more twitchy at speed than the more slack modern DH rigs. that being said, you can always throw an Angleset in the Glory to slacken it out.

I ran pretty healthy sag on the rear of my Glory (37%), which put my HA closer to 64*. it was pretty stable at speed, and in the steep, with that setup. My Aurum at 63* is a bit more stable at high speed than my Glory DH was, but some of that also comes from the lower bottom bracket, and longer TT, on the Aurum.

Glory DHs are long and fairly low, so an Angleset would bring it pretty close to what alot of the new bikes run in terms of geo.
flag jumpman2334
Posted: Jul 16, 2013 at 10:44 Quote
id shoot for the new glory design if possible.

not only do you have new, updated geo. but you also dont have the bottom of your shock (and downtube), looking to kiss a rock every time you hit something big.. not saying it doesnt ride nice, but that just never looked to promising to me..
flag madmax650
Posted: Jul 16, 2013 at 14:50 Quote
Get a syncros -2 headset and you can slack out the voltage quite a bit. That with the long drop outs and dual crown gives you about an inch more for your wheelbase and about 62/63 HA.
flag mark-evans
Posted: Jul 18, 2013 at 4:51 Quote
I have been running a 2008 glory since it came out. And I must admit I've never felt under biked. Especially in the uk, we haven't got the fastest, most flat out courses and I think you'll find its not too twitchy. I have ridden many high end downhill bikes and ride with people on >2011 bikes and to the average human, you won't see a difference. This design of the glory isn't as light as the newer ones, however it is pretty damn strong. Haven't managed even a little dent after some bone breaking crashes. I run a size large, I'm 6ft and find it absolutely perfect comfort-wise. Although I run 780 bars as opposed to the old school 710mm bars it was supplied with. The protruding shock mount is really not a problem, you gotta be seriously close to eating shit before it will touch the ground. You are more likely to bounce off your bashguard and keep on going. The only gripe I have with the glory is it eats shock bushings for breakfast. (brand new set worn through on a wet day at fort william) however if you are fairly mechanically minded and don't mind a bit of maintenance then it's no problem. Du bushings can be had for £2.50 each if you buy in bulk. Any more questions about the glory, feel free to ask.
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jul 18, 2013 at 6:10 Quote
mark-evans wrote:
I have been running a 2008 glory since it came out. And I must admit I've never felt under biked. Especially in the uk, we haven't got the fastest, most flat out courses and I think you'll find its not too twitchy. I have ridden many high end downhill bikes and ride with people on >2011 bikes and to the average human, you won't see a difference. This design of the glory isn't as light as the newer ones, however it is pretty damn strong. Haven't managed even a little dent after some bone breaking crashes. I run a size large, I'm 6ft and find it absolutely perfect comfort-wise. Although I run 780 bars as opposed to the old school 710mm bars it was supplied with. The protruding shock mount is really not a problem, you gotta be seriously close to eating shit before it will touch the ground. You are more likely to bounce off your bashguard and keep on going. The only gripe I have with the glory is it eats shock bushings for breakfast. (brand new set worn through on a wet day at fort william) however if you are fairly mechanically minded and don't mind a bit of maintenance then it's no problem. Du bushings can be had for £2.50 each if you buy in bulk. Any more questions about the glory, feel free to ask.

Cheers Mark (wow that's weird I work with someone with the same name - Mark Evans, not just Mark ha ha.)

Anyway, I found a decent (not arrived yet so, looks decent but used) priced frame for £300 https://www.pinkbike.com/u/scruff413/album/Stuff-for-sale/ @ bottom of album.

Gone medium which sounds like it should be about right even though I am a short arse (5'5"), seems a tiny bit smaller than my Scott Voltage FR. Contemplating a works components 2* reducer Headset as it looks like it will need a new headset.

Have you ever changed your bearings and if so, find it much of a job?
flag mark-evans
Posted: Jul 18, 2013 at 6:25 Quote
No I found it a doodle, you can buy the maestro bearing removal kit, but rrp around £60 I went with the old school hammer method. Just take your time and make sure you know what your doing, nothing worse than writing off a frame trying to change a bearing.

Absolutely no experience with anglesets and stuff, I think you'll find when you've been riding it for a few runs, you won't notice the steeper head angle.

Good luck with your new bike, it's a good 'un
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jul 24, 2013 at 14:56 Quote
So first question Mark. My old chain is too short Can't use first 4 gears atm (woops ha ha), just wondering if you have a clue what the chain length needs to be? Have had a google and look on here but found nothing!

Just finished need longer chain building my new DH bike done on a slightly narrow budget but seem to have got a decent bike out of it. Yet to ride it properly down Dh but on the road outside its great no peddle bob at all and feels super solid and plush. Tad on heavy side at 42lb according to bathroom scales. Spec 2010 Boxxer Race modded internally Sunline Direct Mount Hope headset Rockshox Vivid R2C Hope V2 front X2 rear Shimano Zee Crank Race face X-type BB FS1 Chain guide Sram X7 derailleur x9 shifter 9sp Superstar DHX Wheelset Maxxis Minion DH tyres Scott Bars and Seat and Welgo Mag pedals.
flag thereisnospoon
Posted: Jul 24, 2013 at 15:55 Quote
how I measure for a new chain:

put the bike up on a stand (or upside down)
pull the shock off, and remove the coil from the shock. reinstall the shock (with no coil spring) on the bike.
shift to the biggest cog at the back.
route in a new chain, but don't cut or connect the ends yet. pull the chain together until it's tight (pulling the rear derailleur as far as it will go), then cycle the suspension at this length to make see if you need to add another link or 2 due to the rear end growing under compression. I usually use a zip tie to tie the ends of the chain together (loosely) so that the chain doesn't fall off while monkeying with it haha.
the glory rear end does get longer as you compress it (in the early stages of travel, anyway), so you really should cycle the suspension to make sure that the chain doesn't get too tight while hitting bumps in the biggest cog.

I aim for 2-3 links of slack from the point where the chain is tightest when I compress the rear end, while in the biggest cog in the back.

once happy, cut the new chain, and button it back up/reinstall coil on shock.

unfortunately, I can't tell you how many links of slack there was with the coil re-installed, ready to ride, because my bike is no longer built up. hopefully someone can help you there, to save you time and hassle.
flag ThEGr33k
Posted: Jul 24, 2013 at 16:10 Quote
thereisnospoon wrote:
how I measure for a new chain:

put the bike up on a stand (or upside down)
pull the shock off, and remove the coil from the shock. reinstall the shock (with no coil spring) on the bike.
shift to the biggest cog at the back.
route in a new chain, but don't cut or connect the ends yet. pull the chain together until it's tight (pulling the rear derailleur as far as it will go), then cycle the suspension at this length to make see if you need to add another link or 2 due to the rear end growing under compression. I usually use a zip tie to tie the ends of the chain together (loosely) so that the chain doesn't fall off while monkeying with it haha.
the glory rear end does get longer as you compress it (in the early stages of travel, anyway), so you really should cycle the suspension to make sure that the chain doesn't get too tight while hitting bumps in the biggest cog.

I aim for 2-3 links of slack from the point where the chain is tightest when I compress the rear end, while in the biggest cog in the back.

once happy, cut the new chain, and button it back up/reinstall coil on shock.

unfortunately, I can't tell you how many links of slack there was with the coil re-installed, ready to ride, because my bike is no longer built up. hopefully someone can help you there, to save you time and hassle.

Sounds reasonable. Cheers dude!
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