Marzocchi 888 RC3 Evo or Marzocchi 888 CR?

PB Forum :: Downhill
Marzocchi 888 RC3 Evo or Marzocchi 888 CR?
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flag Robert78040
Posted: Dec 19, 2013 at 10:12 Quote
Looking into replacing my current Rock Shox Domain with either one of these two forks and I was wondering if 1. Marzocchi's are good in general and 2. which one of these two I should get and if the small up price of the RC3 Evo is worth it. They are meant for my Commencal Supreme DH V3

Thanks Smile
flag Robert78040
Posted: Dec 20, 2013 at 1:50 Quote
Does noone have any experience with Marzocchi's?
flag jimferno
Posted: Dec 20, 2013 at 3:20 Quote
There's plenty of information on Marzocchi forks all over the web.

They are generally regarded as bombproof & low maintenance. They went through a rough patch regarding QA around 07-09 when they moved production to Taiwan(?) but they're now back on track.

Specifically regarding the CR vs the RC3 Evo, only you can decide if you need the extra knobs to twiddle with and if they're worth the premium. They're both open bath, coil sprung forks in the same chassis. One just has more adjustability....

I'd personally go for the RC3 Evo, it'll be a massive step up in performance over your Domain DC.
flag MagnePange
Posted: Dec 20, 2013 at 17:59 Quote
A 888 CR would be a huge step up from your current fork. All Marzocchi forks are very supple, I ride a CR 66 and I can tell it´s the best fork ever - outclass my FOX Van 36 RC2 by miles.

I can´t compare Evo vs CR - have not tried the Evo.
flag stealth0712
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 8:43 Quote
I personally run the rc3 evo ti, and although they take some time to dial in, they are immensely good, take a little time to bed in aswell, but don't let that put you off there the difference between night and day there that good.
flag Robert78040
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 8:44 Quote
stealth0712 wrote:
I personally run the rc3 evo ti, and although they take some time to dial in, they are immensely good, take a little time to bed in aswell, but don't let that put you off there the difference between night and day there that good.

How do you mean dial in?
flag stealth0712
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 9:33 Quote
The knobs that you turn to adjust your settings, this is dialing in.
flag Robert78040
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 9:36 Quote
stealth0712 wrote:
The knobs that you turn to adjust your settings, this is dialing in.


ooh okay but why does that take long on it?
flag stealth0712
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 9:58 Quote
[Quote="Robert78040"]
stealth0712 wrote:
The knobs that you turn to adjust your settings, this is dialing in.


ooh okay but why does that take long on it?[/Quote

They have 4 adjusters, with a lot of positions, like rebound and compression, only concentrate on 1 at a time, like rebound, doing run after run on the same track adjusting it 1 click at a time until it feels right for you, there's something like 14 clicks for each dial.
flag Robert78040
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 11:24 Quote
[Quote="stealth0712"]
Robert78040 wrote:
stealth0712 wrote:
The knobs that you turn to adjust your settings, this is dialing in.


ooh okay but why does that take long on it?[/Quote

They have 4 adjusters, with a lot of positions, like rebound and compression, only concentrate on 1 at a time, like rebound, doing run after run on the same track adjusting it 1 click at a time until it feels right for you, there's something like 14 clicks for each dial.

Do you have any recommandations on how to find the best settings?
flag stealth0712
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 12:19 Quote
If you turn all dials to minimun, turning one click at a time count how many settings there are for each one, say there is 10 (I can't remember off the top of my head) divide it by 2, and dial in 5 clicks so it's in the middle basically. Then go from there, the basic are done.then it's just tuning them for each track, an idea is to get a note book and jot down settings and track conditions, need any more don't worry about asking we've all got to learn, I just don't want to insult you by explaining rebound and compression etc.
flag Robert78040
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 12:22 Quote
stealth0712 wrote:
If you turn all dials to minimun, turning one click at a time count how many settings there are for each one, say there is 10 (I can't remember off the top of my head) divide it by 2, and dial in 5 clicks so it's in the middle basically. Then go from there, the basic are done.then it's just tuning them for each track, an idea is to get a note book and jot down settings and track conditions, need any more don't worry about asking we've all got to learn, I just don't want to insult you by explaining rebound and compression etc.

Thanks man Smile I dont see it as an insult whatsoever, I was never that big on the whole technical aspect of Downhill Biking, I LOVE IT but I still need to learn a lot about it so if you have time can you also explain what rebound and compression is? Only if it doesnt annoy you too much Rolleyes
flag stealth0712
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 12:50 Quote
No problem mate, basically comprsion is how hard the forks are to compress, meaning that if you have a fast very bumpy track this should be softer so the wheels can track over them calmly without shaking you off the bike, if you have some big jumps or drop offs this should be hard so you don't bottom the suspension out breaking it, rebound is how fast they return to there original position, this is the reverse of above, so bumpy tracks turn it up so the forks return to there normal position quicker ready for the next bump, and for big jumps/ drops turn it down so they help absorb the the hit and don't bounce you off the bike. B-)
flag Robert78040
Posted: Dec 22, 2013 at 12:55 Quote
stealth0712 wrote:
No problem mate, basically comprsion is how hard the forks are to compress, meaning that if you have a fast very bumpy track this should be softer so the wheels can track over them calmly without shaking you off the bike, if you have some big jumps or drop offs this should be hard so you don't bottom the suspension out breaking it, rebound is how fast they return to there original position, this is the reverse of above, so bumpy tracks turn it up so the forks return to there normal position quicker ready for the next bump, and for big jumps/ drops turn it down so they help absorb the the hit and don't bounce you off the bike. B-)

Is it better to find a good medium in it when riding Downhill or is it better to always adjust it? The problem with adjusting it might be that some trails have different characteristics right?
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