IDEAL CCDB settings CANE CREEK DOUBLE BARREL setup Info Demo 8

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IDEAL CCDB settings CANE CREEK DOUBLE BARREL setup Info Demo 8
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flag marshall100
FL
Posted: May 29, 2014 at 11:09 Quote
Hi, I have trawled the internet for good settings, and never found them so I got some professional advice, figured Id share it to save other people the hassle

These are my settings for my Double Barrel on My 2013 Demo 8, cracking shock, I had it set up completely wrong for agers and then took it to Danny Harts Mechanic Dave from STENDEC and he talked some sense about it all and told me the settings I needed..

Ill start by saying im not a genius or a professional on the subject I just had some great advice from one.

So one "turn" of HSC or HSR Is only equal to one Side of the 6 sided Nut, a good way to keep tabs mark one side with a black marker

and this is where a lot of people go wrong, by following the recommended settings and by doing a full 360 of the NUT to cover one turn, a tiny movement of adjustment is a big difference. If you imagine a spring in each barrel (which there is) the more you tighten that nut the more compressed the spring is therefore the more sensitive the shock is to each setting 'Too sensitive, giving you a kicking feeling when you hit a root section etc...'



Now the LSR and LSC

They actually Click when you turn them so you cannot go wrong.



My settings are as follows.



First spring pre-load (how tight you have the spring) - you want to be able to turn the spring with ease with your hand once set up, this is for the demo it only requires 1 or 2 turns, thats 1 or 2mm, just so the spring doesnt move around (not sure on other bikes)

Now for the dials, wind out the adjusters all of the way, this is by going anti-clockwise (lefty Loosy) it is important you dont force them out too much as if you look there is only a small bolt holding them in. Another note is to spray a bit of lubrication into pots (where the adjuster nuts are) as there are seals here and if you force them in any direction whilst dry they could possibly split and you'll need to service it. DO NOT use GT85 or WD40, these are water reppelants and will dry them more. TF2 teflon oil I used.

OK so here are my base settings

LSC +6

HSC + 4

LSR +10

HSR +8

These settings feel great for me, hope they do for you too .. alot better than what I had them set up as before which I got off the site here! I've been looking for a post like this for a while so thought I'd write one once I finally found some sense with the thing.

Below are some notes on what each setting does, I was told to adjust according to the conditions (wet or dry) or the type of track (techy or fast) and when adjusting, its a case of one or two clicks not several. and remember the high speed adjusters 1 turn is just one side of the nut

best to ride a section of track several times to see if it feels right to begin



LSC moments include, among other things: the rear suspension compressing under braking, the rider moving forward, backwards, and up and down while cornering and pedalling, as well as chain forces acting on the bike's suspension. Landing a jump or drop smoothly onto a proper transition can also considered a low-speed compression because the relatively gentle impact compresses the suspension slower than if you cased the jump or landed flat past the transition.
LSC damping can be used to tune a bike's pedalling abilities, but too much can and will make the suspension feel harsh at the top of its stroke.

A HSC instant is any time your suspension reacts to a fast and hard impact, with the wheel needing to move up and out of the way quickly,
although smaller trail irregularities such as roots and rocks can also act on the shock's HSC circuit - anything that forces the shock shaft to compress quickly.
Too little HSC damping and you may find that the shock bottoms too often, but too much and you could either not use enough of the bike's travel or feel a harsh spiking sensation on impact.

LSR helps the bike feel more settled and in contact with the ground. Too much LSR and you'll find that the bike will want to stay grounded and make it hard to unweight the bike over rough sections, or even not allow for enough 'pop' to clear a jump.
Too low in its travel.

HSR, Increasing the amount of HSR on the shock will allow it to return slower from a large impact, resulting in more control as the rider recovers from the impact.
Too much HSR and you might discover that the bike feels harsh on continuously rough terrain but, interestingly, this isn't always a compression issue - the shock can rebound so slowly that it doesn't extend in time to absorb the next hit, meaning that it has less travel to use. Enough impacts in a row and the shock could be near-bottomed despite the hits not being hard enough to use all of the bike's travel,

LSC low speed compression
HSC High speed compression
LSR low speed rebound
HSR high speed rebound

Cheers Phil
flag kent
Posted: May 29, 2014 at 15:32 Quote
On the high speed settings you claim 1 "turn" equals 1 face of the nut........ so the maximum range is 4 faces or 2/3s of a full turn??
http://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/double-barrel/base-tunes
And the continuous spinning of the other 3 1/3 full turns does nothing?

Cane creeks field tuning guide says ride the same line and make the high speed adjustments a 1/2 turn at a time until you reach a desired feel. So basically go from almost no damping to full damping?

You say your settings are HSR +8 even though the guys who made the shock list the range as 0-4......

Your low speed settings are almost bang on what cane creek has for your bike base tune but your high speed settings are soooooo far off I have no idea how that feels good your compression will be so soft and rebound so fast no way it will ride stable it must feel like a super squishy bucking bronco


I think your suspension guy is wrong.
flag kent
Posted: May 29, 2014 at 15:42 Quote
I agree with you on most of what you said just not how the high speed adjustments work
flag marshall100
FL
Posted: May 29, 2014 at 23:29 Quote
No I'm not saying 1 side of the nut is a turn, I'm just stayin that I was informed that I should treat it as a turn! As the shock is that sensitive it does not require as much adjustment as everyone is told! The maximum range is still four full turns, but you done need that much adjustment at all, give it a try I found the bike went from bouncing about, to tracking and keeping it's line!
Beforehand there was too much adjustment giving that 'bucking bronco' feeling Smile

So for instance, +8 on the HSR actually = 1 full turn then + 2 sides.
So it's not out of its range! As the range is still four 360 degree turns.


The bikes felt the best I've had it with these settings anyway it worked great for me
flag hecop
Posted: May 29, 2014 at 23:39 Quote
Hi, how do you know how many turns you have to turn according to the riders weigh? I'm talking about a the small CCDB coil for a 8.5x2.5 size, it's an enduro bike. I weigh 70 kilos. I have just used air shocks.
Thanks.
flag kent
Posted: May 29, 2014 at 23:47 Quote
specializedglory wrote:
No I'm not saying 1 side of the nut is a turn, I'm just stayin that I was informed that I should treat it as a turn! As the shock is that sensitive it does not require as much adjustment as everyone is told! The maximum range is still four full turns, but you done need that much adjustment at all, give it a try I found the bike went from bouncing about, to tracking and keeping it's line!
Beforehand there was too much adjustment giving that 'bucking bronco' feeling Smile

So for instance, +8 on the HSR actually = 1 full turn then + 2 sides.
So it's not out of its range! As the range is still four 360 degree turns.


The bikes felt the best I've had it with these settings anyway it worked great for me

Ohhhh ok I get what you mean.
But considering the tuning guide calls a turn one full 360 degree turn maybe use a different word for slight adjustment.
Yes I agree with you that you don't need to go 360 degrees around at once.
Either way glad it works for you.
flag marshall100
FL
Posted: May 30, 2014 at 0:00 Quote
Should have stated that one turn is 360 but one one side should be treated as a turn when adjusting

The suspension guy, isn't wrong Smile
flag marshall100
FL
Posted: May 30, 2014 at 0:22 Quote
The riders weight is more of of a spring choice than adjustment! And the best people to ask for that as it also depends on. The frame your using, would be TF tuned I think they have a spring calculator on their site
flag bigburd
Posted: May 30, 2014 at 0:26 Quote
I also make my adjustments by this same method , a full 360 turn is way to much adjustment in one hit , just turning one of the faces as a turn is far more accurate.
flag jimferno
Posted: May 30, 2014 at 9:23 Quote
specializedglory wrote:
The riders weight is more of of a spring choice than adjustment! And the best people to ask for that as it also depends on. The frame your using, would be TF tuned I think they have a spring calculator on their site

If you're a heavier rider with a harder spring you have to make adjustments accordingly.

At 16 stones with a 500lb spring, your 'ideal' settings on the CCDB would have my bike feeling like a pogo stick.
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