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1 1/8" Fork in a tapered headtube (How to?)

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1 1/8" Fork in a tapered headtube (How to?)

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flag pichon
Posted: Oct 7, 2014 at 5:53 Quote
As the title says I have a straight steerer 1 1/8" Fox 36 Talas fork and my new frame has a tapered head tube - what type of headset am I going to need or get?
If anyone has any advice or info that would be great.
Cheers.
flag foobajoob
Posted: Oct 7, 2014 at 10:04 Quote
I would suggest getting a tapered headset to match your new frame and then just get a crown race reducer that will adapt the 1 1/8 fork to fit the wider bottom headset cup. It works perfectly, and it'll allow you to easily switch to a tapered fork in the future if you end up replacing your current one.
flag pichon
Posted: Oct 7, 2014 at 11:22 Quote
foobajoob wrote:
I would suggest getting a tapered headset to match your new frame and then just get a crown race reducer that will adapt the 1 1/8 fork to fit the wider bottom headset cup. It works perfectly, and it'll allow you to easily switch to a tapered fork in the future if you end up replacing your current one.
Ah OK so pretty straight forward, I'll look into that then - nice one mate, cheers.
flag pichon
Posted: Oct 9, 2014 at 1:47 Quote
Another quick question.
Will any 1 1/8" to 1.5 race crown fit any lower headset or do you need to get the same brand etc as the headset?
flag foobajoob
Posted: Oct 9, 2014 at 8:20 Quote
I'm not 100% sure on that. I'd say stick to the same brand just to be safe.
flag aggro
Posted: Oct 9, 2014 at 12:17 Quote
pichon wrote:
Another quick question.
Will any 1 1/8" to 1.5 race crown fit any lower headset or do you need to get the same brand etc as the headset?

No, you will need to be find the exact match for your current headset. For example, a race for a sealed bearing vs a loose bearing are completely different. Even though it may look like it fits, the tolerances need to be perfect in order for it to work correctly. I've tried a number of similar looking FSA headsets with different FSA races and only the exact match worked. Some companies that specialize more in headsets (i.e. Cane Creek & Hope) may indeed use the same bearing race throughout their lineup, but you would have to check with them.
flag pichon
Posted: Oct 9, 2014 at 15:10 Quote
agro wrote:
pichon wrote:
Another quick question.
Will any 1 1/8" to 1.5 race crown fit any lower headset or do you need to get the same brand etc as the headset?

No, you will need to be find the exact match for your current headset. For example, a race for a sealed bearing vs a loose bearing are completely different. Even though it may look like it fits, the tolerances need to be perfect in order for it to work correctly. I've tried a number of similar looking FSA headsets with different FSA races and only the exact match worked. Some companies that specialize more in headsets (i.e. Cane Creek & Hope) may indeed use the same bearing race throughout their lineup, but you would have to check with them.

Ok so i have done a wee bit more research on the subject and have came up with a couple of possibilities (Hope, Nukeproof and DaBomb) but there is another issue in the way, the actual depth of the upper and lower cups - meaning the depth of the internal part of the cups that sit into the actual head tube. My headtube has an upper and lower socket of 15mm, which i assume means that the headset i need will have to have the same 15mm depth?
The Nukeproof headset has an upper internal cup depth of 8.5mm and a lower cup depth of 20mm and I can't seem to get any info on the depths of the Hope cups.
Any ideas guys or am I over complicating things here?!?!? :/

Thanks for all the info and help so far btw, I appreciate it.
flag foobajoob
Posted: Oct 9, 2014 at 15:34 Quote
What's your frame?
flag pichon
Posted: Oct 9, 2014 at 15:36 Quote
foobajoob wrote:
What's your frame?
Orange Alpine 160
flag foobajoob
Posted: Oct 9, 2014 at 16:23 Quote
Looks like the headset dimensions you need are:

Top cup - ZS49/28.6
- ZS = zero stack, which means minimal amount of the headset cup will sit outside the head tube as the bearing fits within the head tube itself
- 49 = upper head tube type, which I believe is the diameter in mm
- 28.6 = steerer diameter in mm

Bottom cup - EC49/40
- EC = external cup, which means more of the headset cup will sit outside the head tube because the bearing sits outside of the head tube
- 49 = lower head tube type
- 40 = crown race seat diameter, which is in mm and where the crown race will fit into the bottom cup to keep the steerer in place

As you shop around for headsets, you should see those measurement designations. You shouldn't need to worry about how far the headset goes into the head tube. Those depth measurements you're seeing are most likely actually the stack height of each cup (how much sits outside the head tube). The stack height (head tube length plus the headset cups plus stem height) is important for knowing how long you need the steerer on your fork to be because if the steerer is too short, it won't come through enough to attach your stem. Although tapered head tubes tend to be shorter than straight 1 1/8" head tubes, so you should be alright with having enough steerer on your fork.
flag pichon
Posted: Oct 10, 2014 at 4:32 Quote
Cheers guys that's all really helpful stuff, I appreciate it.

I managed to get a headset sorted which will do my job - a DaBomb Depth charge 44-56 which (with the included crown adapters) will take a straight 1 1/8" steerer aswel as a tapered steerer.
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