I recently performed a bleed on a buddy's reverb stealth as it was really slow. After the bleed it worked well again...for a few days. today it wouldn't go up or down unless you really push the remote all the way in and really hard (you have to squeeze it with the entire hand, one finger isn't enough). I searched the internet and some had a problem with the seatpost clamp being too tight but it's not the problem here. Yesterday the seatpost was lowered in the frame all the way for some shuttle runs, that's also the time it stopped working but I don't know how this could cause the problem. Tried bleeding it again two times. The pressure is correct 250 psi at full extension. The remote somehow doesn't actuate the seatpost soon until it's almost completely depressed.
I don't have a reverb but I have had a similar problem on my Giant Contact Dropper. I remedied the problem by adjusting the cable tension from the remote to the post using the barrel adjuster. Are you able to do a similar thing on the reverb?
Gone4Dirt the man said that he had to BLEED his Reverb. Ne cables.
saski Here is what you do. It is either one of two things and hopefully the first fixes it. If not you have to send it to to Rockshox for a fix.
How to bleed. On the remote there is a dial that you can make the post faster or slower. Make sure that it is at the proper position. Refer to the Rockshox service manual.
Now the goal is here is to get the air pocket out of the remote. You may have to bleed the post several times to remedy it. While you are pushing fluid S-L-O-W-L-Y from the lever. You will be Flicking the lever (Thumb pushing the lever in a little and then slide your thumb off allowing the lever to pop up) several times to free the bubble.
Second bleed. Rotate the lever 1/4 turn on the bar, and re-peat the first part.
If the post does not work after the second try then there is a problem inside the post that needs to be replaced. Send it to Rockshox. And It sounds like one of the three Brass Keys is worn causing the post to bind on the IFP tube rendering the post kinda effed. And that would have been caused by over torquing the seatpost binderbolt past 6.4 newtons.
Thank you, I tried bleeding again using your advice but it's still the same, so it's probably really something inside the seatpost causing this.I can pull it up while pressing the remote but it jumps back down. If the post would be binding and the remote does open the valve, wouldn't I be able to pull the post up and have it stay up? Also, there's no way to tighten the clamp exactly to the scecified torque because it's a quick release that can only be tightened by hand.
It's my friend's bike so he was the one talking to the shop and he didn't ask what the problem was but they did say they had a few similar cases already. It works now, hopefully it doesn't happen again.
If it pulls back down then that means that the I.F.P. internal floating piston has failed. It need to go in for service.
After I read this I was about to give up on mine and was heading out to take it off; before I did however I came across a post on singletrackworld where a guy with similar issues fixed his. "As a last ditch idea I decided to discharge it of air, pull up by hand then hold the remote button in whilst pumping air back in (a true 3 handed job!) and finally it stayed up and now works as advertised."
Figuring it was worth a shot, I bled the line, used an adjustable clamp to hold button in then held the post extended as I pumped it up to 250. Worked like a charm and is as good as new.
For background, I had gone riding when the temps were in the teens and at some point near the end of the ride the reverb quit working. When pressurized it would collapse and with the air released I could manually extend it but any weight on it would collapse it. And yes I realize this was an old thread but OP isn't the only one that might have this issue.