Marzocchi 380 Master Thread

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Marzocchi 380 Master Thread
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flag ryanmj
Posted: Sep 24, 2016 at 15:09 Quote
Just got finished, took my time but the fork sits about 3/8 of an inch below full extension un-weighted and makes a harsh clunking noise when I pull up on the bars or when the fork is compressed and it returns to full extension.

Any ideas?
flag mcozzy
Posted: Sep 25, 2016 at 3:35 Quote
What exactly did you do? The only time mine made a harsh clunk on topout was when there was hardly any oil in the damper, hence I suggested bleeding it properly whilst you had it all in bits.
Seems odd if its sitting low unweighted, spring preload wound off?
flag ryanmj
Posted: Sep 25, 2016 at 8:37 Quote
mcozzy wrote:
What exactly did you do? The only time mine made a harsh clunk on topout was when there was hardly any oil in the damper, hence I suggested bleeding it properly whilst you had it all in bits.
Seems odd if its sitting low unweighted, spring preload wound off?

I didnt have the lock ring at the bottom of the spring side leg seated properly and it popped out. All good now
flag mars2
Posted: Sep 25, 2016 at 8:43 Quote
HI,
I just bought second hand a C2R2 Titanium.
How can I know what spring is inside?
I took it out the spring have a black plastic cover on in and the spring itself is Bronze color.
On the black plastic cover their is this righten:
YE DERAY I 3000 39/13

That's all I can see. I would like to get a softer spring as I can only get 15% Sag with preload fully unscrew.
So I need to know from what to start and now what I have on mine.

Look like it's a fork that was deliver Oem with some bike as the lower sticker are same graphic as 2015 C2R2 ti but they are Yellow/green instead of white. Look like it could come from a Mondraker summum carbon pro 2015
http://www.mondraker.com/15/esp/bikes/summum-carbon-pro/451/tecnologia
flag ryanmj
Posted: Sep 25, 2016 at 13:13 Quote
mars2 wrote:
HI,
I just bought second hand a C2R2 Titanium.
How can I know what spring is inside?
I took it out the spring have a black plastic cover on in and the spring itself is Bronze color.
On the black plastic cover their is this righten:
YE DERAY I 3000 39/13

That's all I can see. I would like to get a softer spring as I can only get 15% Sag with preload fully unscrew.
So I need to know from what to start and now what I have on mine.

Look like it's a fork that was deliver Oem with some bike as the lower sticker are same graphic as 2015 C2R2 ti but they are Yellow/green instead of white. Look like it could come from a Mondraker summum carbon pro 2015
http://www.mondraker.com/15/esp/bikes/summum-carbon-pro/451/tecnologia

If its a 2015 the spring is a 6.5, 5.5 is what you need.
flag mars2
Posted: Sep 26, 2016 at 0:42 Quote
Thank' s for your answer.

I know 2015 fork is 6.5 nm spring.
But they were also delivered with a 7.7nm So how do I know for sure what spring is inside?
Is their some kind of color code like on the fox 40 with yellow, purple, blue, green....
flag henkster
Posted: Sep 26, 2016 at 2:23 Quote
mars2 wrote:
Thank' s for your answer.

I know 2015 fork is 6.5 nm spring.
But they were also delivered with a 7.7nm So how do I know for sure what spring is inside?
Is their some kind of color code like on the fox 40 with yellow, purple, blue, green....

The 6.5nm is the stock firm ti spring. The 7.7 is the extra-firm spring and the one that comes with the fork is steel and not titanium. If the spring is steel (heavy) then it'll probably be the 7.7.

The springs should have a blob (or a line of blobs) of colored paint on the spring under the clear wrap. If I recall correctly then the 6.5 is green and the 7.7 is red for the ti springs. No idea what the corresponding colors for steel are, or if the colors are in fact the same as they were in previously years, sorry!
flag brbzantonio
Posted: Oct 2, 2016 at 22:10 Quote
mcozzy wrote:
Ok my turn to try to add some content that will hopefully be helpful to others.
After a week in morzine my 2014 380's felt terrible, squeaky, clunky on topout and very harsh. A hire bike I rode with some basic boxxers showed how bad mine were as they felt so much smoother over the braking bumps.

Its pretty much covered in this thread so I will skim over & fill in the gaps hopefully.
I removed the top spring bolt (33mm) and took the spring out (7.7nm titanium, thanks YT Big Grin ). The plastic spring cover was pretty shabby but I didnt replace it.
I removed the rebound knobs (small allen key)
I undid the 2 foot nuts (14mm spanner)
And caught the oil ..
photo
mmmmmm 1/4 a cup of crappy looking oil. Most of this was from when I added 100ml in the spring side when I was checking the spring weigh a few months back.

I then removed the top damper nut (33mm) and pulled the damper out.
The lowers can now be slid off
A circlip needs removing on the spring side to get the elastomer rod out, easily done with a small thin screwdriver.
All the bits laid out, lowers, elastomer rod, foot nuts, rebound knobs, circlip, spring, preload adjuster & damper.
photo

I cycled the damper & oil squirted everywhere from the top bleed hole.

Some general pics.

Space left on stanchions with forks at full compression.
photo

Length of standard elastomer. 170mm
photo

Travel left before elastomer hits the bumpstop with spring removed. I had previous though YT had cut my elastomer as full travel could be obtained. I now realise without the spring fitted, the elastomer is free to flex around in the stanchions and can be easily distorted.
photo

45mm cut off the elastomer with the bread knife. I was aiming for 40mm but am a terrible cut!
photo

Reassembly is straightforward reverse of the removal.
Plenty of slik suspension grease on the seals.
Remember to check the o-rings fitted to the damper bottom & the spring bottom. I hadnt realised one was stuck in the forks still.
photo

Now the damper bleed confuses me. I see it can be done using a really thin flat 24 or 26mm spanner I read about earlier in the thread to take the top off the damper. I did not have one of these. I had hoped that it would self bleed by reassemble, 110ml of oil in the damper leg then cycling the fork without the spring fitted. This appears not to work. I cannot see the lower bleed hole anywhere thats meant to suck oil up, its mentioned that its at the bottom of the black damper where the rod exits. I really cannot see how this would ever work as I dont think this part is ever submerged in oil. Anyone care to explain??

So I had to take the damper apart without the correct spanner.
Removed the LSC knob with small allen key.
I wedged a bolt against the HCS knob to undo the 8mm nut.
photo

Then remove the HSC knob. Dont loose the springs & ball bearings from either compression knob!
Now the damper can be undone with a 26mm socket. Ok I didn't have one, but a 27mm did ok, its not that tight.
photo

I then poured oil into the top of the damper. Hand over the top (or it will spray everywhere) & gently cycled it up & down, added a bit more and repeated until it felt like it was doing something. The top cap can then be screwed back in. This was a tight fit with the oil in there now.

And tighten everything back up.

Dont forget a travel o-ring whilst its in bits, rude not to.
photo

Out of my 500ml of 7.5 fluid I used about 350mm.
150ml in the spring side.
110ml in the damper leg, the rest in the damper.

Fork feel splendid just bouncing it, super smooth & silent & the damping adjustments now actually seem to work. I think it was so low on oil from the factory.
Looking forward to testing it Big Grin

EDIT: the only bit I'm not happy about is not taking the damper top off earlier & emptying the old oil out. I'm sure some of the crappy oil is still left after cycling it.

Just found this thread and was wondering that myself when I went to bleed my second had 380... If you look at the base of the damper rod (black part that anchors into the lowers) there is a small silver hex bolt that is screwed into the side. If you take it out you'll see that it houses a floating O-ring that slides relative to the direction of oil flow/pressure change. The housing around the o-ring is tapered so when the pressure inside the damper changes -from oil being expelled- the o-ring is pushed towards the wider end of the tapered wall allowing oil to pass inside. When the pressure comes from inside the damper (compression) it pushes the o-ring towards the small end of the taper and stops it from leaving the damper.
flag mars2
Posted: Oct 6, 2016 at 8:47 Quote
Want to buy a 5.5Nm Titanium spring.
if some body that have upgrade have one
flag harry-morgan
Posted: Nov 27, 2016 at 12:42 Quote
hi there, my preload cap has come loose today, any ideas how i put it back on? i also have a tiny little ball with it aswell.

thanks in advance

harry
flag harry-morgan
Posted: Nov 27, 2016 at 12:56 Quote
Did you figure it out buddy? All i have it the preload cap and a tiny silver ball

monkies wrote:
Preload cap installation

Has anyone figured out how to insert the screw (part #87) to re-attach the Preload cap? In the diagram, the screw comes from under the unit (see letter 'A' in diagram https://www.marzocchi.com/System/19262/MY2016%20-%20380%20C2R2%20TITANIUM_RF1-00.pdf...

I was riding and the Preload cap came loose, and all I have left is the cap and o-ring (the screw, spring, and ball must have bounced out [parts 87, 95 and 96, respectively]). The screw may have rattled into the unit but I don't know how to get in there...

https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/13399511/
flag entouragegeek78
Posted: Dec 1, 2016 at 13:12 Quote
I'm working on my first DH build and have the 380C2R2.

I went to change the spring to the heavier spring in the box, thought the plastic cover was just for protection in shipping so I cut it off.

I then took the top cap and removed the stock spring, coming to realize that the plastic cover is suppose to be on the spring.

If I run the spring without that cover will I ruin the fork?

Thanks
flag henkster
Posted: Dec 1, 2016 at 13:53 Quote
entouragegeek78 wrote:
If I run the spring without that cover will I ruin the fork?

Nope, it'll be fine, but noisy, even with a bit of grease. You can buy the same thin (1mil), clear, heat shrink tubing on eBay, but it has to be the super-thin stuff as the clearances are small and the standard stuff from the DIY store is too thick.

 


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