Is this fixable?

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Is this fixable?
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flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 5:43 Quote
Out for a ride this morning to try out my new mallet dh pedals and I binned it on some rocks and did this to my 2016 lyrik rct3:

photo

Is it fixable? Can I buy stantions to replace? Anyone any experience of it?

Cheers
flag gotohe11carolina
FL
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 7:53 Quote
Unfortunately you cant replace the stanchin alone. You can buy a new CSU but you're not far off a fork cost by then. As long as it holds air and is burr free it should be fine. There's a whole thread on gussying up kashima stanchions after a biff. I'm sure many of the same steps apply for your fix.
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 8:00 Quote
gotohe11carolina wrote:
Unfortunately you cant replace the stanchin alone. You can buy a new CSU but you're not far off a fork cost by then. As long as it holds air and is burr free it should be fine. There's a whole thread on gussying up kashima stanchions after a biff. I'm sure many of the same steps apply for your fix.

Yeah I had a look on youtube and there is a few home fix tutorials. Might as well give it a bash huh. No harm trying.
flag sdken
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 14:44 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
gotohe11carolina wrote:
Unfortunately you cant replace the stanchin alone. You can buy a new CSU but you're not far off a fork cost by then. As long as it holds air and is burr free it should be fine. There's a whole thread on gussying up kashima stanchions after a biff. I'm sure many of the same steps apply for your fix.

Yeah I had a look on youtube and there is a few home fix tutorials. Might as well give it a bash huh. No harm trying.

If it comes down to it, even if it looks like crap, as long as the repair is smooth then you're all good
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 15:04 Quote
sdken wrote:
toby9843 wrote:
gotohe11carolina wrote:
Unfortunately you cant replace the stanchin alone. You can buy a new CSU but you're not far off a fork cost by then. As long as it holds air and is burr free it should be fine. There's a whole thread on gussying up kashima stanchions after a biff. I'm sure many of the same steps apply for your fix.

Yeah I had a look on youtube and there is a few home fix tutorials. Might as well give it a bash huh. No harm trying.

If it comes down to it, even if it looks like crap, as long as the repair is smooth then you're all good

I'm gonna give it a go tomorrow with wet and dry paper and nail polish. If all else fails I'll find a fork in the buy and sell. Been sat looking at new bikes all evening which is a bit of an extreme fix lol
flag False
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 15:30 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
sdken wrote:
toby9843 wrote:


Yeah I had a look on youtube and there is a few home fix tutorials. Might as well give it a bash huh. No harm trying.

If it comes down to it, even if it looks like crap, as long as the repair is smooth then you're all good

I'm gonna give it a go tomorrow with wet and dry paper and nail polish. If all else fails I'll find a fork in the buy and sell. Been sat looking at new bikes all evening which is a bit of an extreme fix lol
yeah dude use some nail polish and like 1000 as a start and finish with 3000 sand paper..
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 15:40 Quote
False wrote:
toby9843 wrote:
sdken wrote:


If it comes down to it, even if it looks like crap, as long as the repair is smooth then you're all good

I'm gonna give it a go tomorrow with wet and dry paper and nail polish. If all else fails I'll find a fork in the buy and sell. Been sat looking at new bikes all evening which is a bit of an extreme fix lol
yeah dude use some nail polish and like 1000 as a start and finish with 3000 sand paper..

I'll post a pic of it once I've had a go at it.
flag markg1150
Posted: Dec 27, 2017 at 16:11 Quote
Easy fix. No worries.
And it has nothing to do with holding air.(the bits that holds air and holds the fork up is on the inside of that damaged tube) All its gotta do is be smooth and round so it doesn't wreck the wiper seal or scratch the Bush or cause binding if you have left it to thick we the nail polish.
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 28, 2017 at 23:28 Quote
So I've had a go at fixing it myself. 2000 grit wet and dry paper to smooth it down, then I tried nail polish to paint over it. Nail polish wasn't that good as I found I needed to sand it down a lot again and essentially just removed it all again. I ended up touching it up with a black permanent marker instead.

I can still feel it when I run my fingers over it but it's very feint and there's nothing sharp at all.

photo

photo
flag False
Posted: Dec 29, 2017 at 0:01 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
So I've had a go at fixing it myself. 2000 grit wet and dry paper to smooth it down, then I tried nail polish to paint over it. Nail polish wasn't that good as I found I needed to sand it down a lot again and essentially just removed it all again. I ended up touching it up with a black permanent marker instead.

I can still feel it when I run my fingers over it but it's very feint and there's nothing sharp at all.

photo

photo
as long as its not sharp, you don't want it to damage the seals
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 29, 2017 at 0:05 Quote
as long as its not sharp, you don't want it to damage the seals[/Quote]

Nothing sharp on it but I have ordered some 5000 grit paper to try and get it even smoother, just for my own satisfaction really. I just wonder if there is anything better I can paint over it with as I'm concerned about weatherproofing bare metal. Nail polish just ended up a bit tacky and sanded right off.
flag False
Posted: Dec 29, 2017 at 0:13 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
as long as its not sharp, you don't want it to damage the seals

Nothing sharp on it but I have ordered some 5000 grit paper to try and get it even smoother, just for my own satisfaction really. I just wonder if there is anything better I can paint over it with as I'm concerned about weatherproofing bare metal. Nail polish just ended up a bit tacky and sanded right off.[/Quote]
you could clear coat it and sand it with that 5000 grit paper
flag toby9843
Posted: Dec 29, 2017 at 0:16 Quote
False wrote:
toby9843 wrote:
as long as its not sharp, you don't want it to damage the seals

Nothing sharp on it but I have ordered some 5000 grit paper to try and get it even smoother, just for my own satisfaction really. I just wonder if there is anything better I can paint over it with as I'm concerned about weatherproofing bare metal. Nail polish just ended up a bit tacky and sanded right off.
you could clear coat it and sand it with that 5000 grit paper[/Quote]

Just been browsing and I saw a post where someone had used JB weld on a pike. I'm going to try a version of that that I can get locally. It's a steel epoxy that sets hard and can be sanded down.
flag False
Posted: Dec 29, 2017 at 0:30 Quote
toby9843 wrote:
False wrote:
toby9843 wrote:
as long as its not sharp, you don't want it to damage the seals

Nothing sharp on it but I have ordered some 5000 grit paper to try and get it even smoother, just for my own satisfaction really. I just wonder if there is anything better I can paint over it with as I'm concerned about weatherproofing bare metal. Nail polish just ended up a bit tacky and sanded right off.
you could clear coat it and sand it with that 5000 grit paper

Just been browsing and I saw a post where someone had used JB weld on a pike. I'm going to try a version of that that I can get locally. It's a steel epoxy that sets hard and can be sanded down.[/Quote]
why bother? you would have to repaint your fork. easiest way is to just use the nail polish and sand it with your 5000 grit sand paper
flag markg1150
Posted: Dec 29, 2017 at 3:19 Quote
Did remember to let the nail polish set hard? Longer you leave it the harder it sets. I give it min 24h before doing anything to it.
Might be worth black painting /marker pen the scratch base then covering with the clear nail polish.
My gut says jb being hard to polish as good and having more friction overall.

What do you mean weatherproofing? It a hard anodised alloy tube.
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