Anybody already got a wobbly backwheel and know how to fix it? Ive got the Bontrager Rapid Drive 54 Boost in the back. Is there any chance to tighten the end caps?
Anybody already got a wobbly backwheel and know how to fix it? Ive got the Bontrager Rapid Drive 54 Boost in the back. Is there any chance to tighten the end caps?
Anybody already got a wobbly backwheel and know how to fix it? Ive got the Bontrager Rapid Drive 54 Boost in the back. Is there any chance to tighten the end caps?
Or could this wobbly feeling beeing caused through loose spokes?
First time having this issue.
It could definitely be spokes, check their tension by hand see if you can notice one or some that are noticeably looser. Also double check that the axle is torqued to spec (I recommend checking all bolts at least once a week), they do become loose after some riding, sometime very quickly if you ride a lot and in rough terrain. If the axle is not torqued enough, you definitely be causing more stress on the hub and bearings.
I've been happy with the bontrager hubs! Quite happy with the easy and cheap upgrade to 108 engagement points too. The bontrager aluminum mtb rims are a bit on the soft side, but at least it makes it so they don't crack on the first rock strike. I was relatively gentle on the carbon rims last season and am happy to ride them for a second season! In the past 3 years, I had 2 bontrager wheelsets and 1 custom wheelset with hope pro 4 hubs. I never had to change the bearings on the bontrager hubs (and still have/ride the wheels). Surprisingly I had to change the bearings twice, in the same season, on the hope pro 4. And the second time, I found that the hub was damaged where there was a tiny bit of play between the brand new bearing's race and the hub's bore (green locktite to the rescue).
Hi I have a creaking sound while pedaling and moving weight from one side to the other. I head that the issue is the main pivot at the chain stay over the bottom bracket. I removed and greased it since it was completely dry. The creaking was gone for a few weeks but is now back. I also noticed that the chainstay has a large tolerance and I need to tighten it with the bolt to close the gap to the main frame, is that normal!? Are your creaking sounds gone completely after you greased it? Otherwise I would try to get a new chainstay
I had a similar sound when pedaling, turned out to be the freehub pawls in the rear hub weirdly enough. I just live with it and it sometimes comes and goes. I was told the only way to completely eliminate it is to get a new hub/wheelset.
Noticed this crack on my head tube the other day forming right between the ride wrap I have on it. Weird spot for a crack to develop, especially considering there were no impacts anywhere on the front of the bike. Bottom of headtube where it connects with the downtube and the top by the knock block are both totally fine and free of any damage.
It's getting warrantied for a new one thankfully, but thought I would share. Can't say I've seen a crack in this location on a carbon bike before
I'm doing my first 50 hour air can service on a 2022 Rockshox Super Deluxe Thrushaft. The first step is to remove the yoke from the damper assembly, so I can slide the air can off. However, the yoke seems really tight and I don't want to damage the damper body by putting too much pressure on it. Anybody else do this service and any advice?
Noticed this crack on my head tube the other day forming right between the ride wrap I have on it. Weird spot for a crack to develop, especially considering there were no impacts anywhere on the front of the bike. Bottom of headtube where it connects with the downtube and the top by the knock block are both totally fine and free of any damage.
It's getting warrantied for a new one thankfully, but thought I would share. Can't say I've seen a crack in this location on a carbon bike before
interesting, Is the carbon cracking or is this just the clear coat?
Noticed this crack on my head tube the other day forming right between the ride wrap I have on it. Weird spot for a crack to develop, especially considering there were no impacts anywhere on the front of the bike. Bottom of headtube where it connects with the downtube and the top by the knock block are both totally fine and free of any damage.
It's getting warrantied for a new one thankfully, but thought I would share. Can't say I've seen a crack in this location on a carbon bike before
interesting, Is the carbon cracking or is this just the clear coat?
As far as I can tell, the carbon. Maybe not by much though. You can see beneath some parts of the base layer of paint on some parts of the crack so I would assume it goes deeper.
Anybody already got a wobbly backwheel and know how to fix it? Ive got the Bontrager Rapid Drive 54 Boost in the back. Is there any chance to tighten the end caps?
Or could this wobbly feeling beeing caused through loose spokes?
First time having this issue.
It could definitely be spokes, check their tension by hand see if you can notice one or some that are noticeably looser. Also double check that the axle is torqued to spec (I recommend checking all bolts at least once a week), they do become loose after some riding, sometime very quickly if you ride a lot and in rough terrain. If the axle is not torqued enough, you definitely be causing more stress on the hub and bearings.
I've been happy with the bontrager hubs! Quite happy with the easy and cheap upgrade to 108 engagement points too. The bontrager aluminum mtb rims are a bit on the soft side, but at least it makes it so they don't crack on the first rock strike. I was relatively gentle on the carbon rims last season and am happy to ride them for a second season! In the past 3 years, I had 2 bontrager wheelsets and 1 custom wheelset with hope pro 4 hubs. I never had to change the bearings on the bontrager hubs (and still have/ride the wheels). Surprisingly I had to change the bearings twice, in the same season, on the hope pro 4. And the second time, I found that the hub was damaged where there was a tiny bit of play between the brand new bearing's race and the hub's bore (green locktite to the rescue).
Okay, I will double check the spokes. Yesterday I torqued the rear axle a little higher then I should (normally Im doing this with a torque wrench and 10NM). I think it got better.
Anybody already got a wobbly backwheel and know how to fix it? Ive got the Bontrager Rapid Drive 54 Boost in the back. Is there any chance to tighten the end caps?
Anybody already got a wobbly backwheel and know how to fix it? Ive got the Bontrager Rapid Drive 54 Boost in the back. Is there any chance to tighten the end caps?
Does anyone else's RS Super Deluxe thru shaft make this squelching noise at the start of each ride (see video), after it's been sitting for a bit? I'm curious if this is normal, perhaps just air equalizing, but to me it sounds a lot like air in the damper oil (cavitation) which is not good. The noise does ease off after 15-20 cycles. Any insights appreciated. Thanks.
Does anyone else's RS Super Deluxe thru shaft make this squelching noise at the start of each ride (see video), after it's been sitting for a bit? I'm curious if this is normal, perhaps just air equalizing, but to me it sounds a lot like air in the damper oil (cavitation) which is not good. The noise does ease off after 15-20 cycles. Any insights appreciated. Thanks.
Does anyone else's RS Super Deluxe thru shaft make this squelching noise at the start of each ride (see video), after it's been sitting for a bit? I'm curious if this is normal, perhaps just air equalizing, but to me it sounds a lot like air in the damper oil (cavitation) which is not good. The noise does ease off after 15-20 cycles. Any insights appreciated. Thanks.
My Trek Fuel EX Reaktiv shock does the same exact thing. I know something’s wrong but I don’t know what.
That happens if you lay your bike down on its side for too long. I have a Slash 8 and whenever I lean it on its side for too long, it starts to leak oil and make a squelching noise
Does anyone else's RS Super Deluxe thru shaft make this squelching noise at the start of each ride (see video), after it's been sitting for a bit? I'm curious if this is normal, perhaps just air equalizing, but to me it sounds a lot like air in the damper oil (cavitation) which is not good. The noise does ease off after 15-20 cycles. Any insights appreciated. Thanks.
My Trek Fuel EX Reaktiv shock does the same exact thing. I know something’s wrong but I don’t know what.
That happens if you lay your bike down on its side for too long. I have a Slash 8 and whenever I lean it on its side for too long, it starts to leak oil and make a squelching noise
Nothing to do with it being on its side for me, happens regardless of what position the bike has been in.