Nukeproof Dissent enduro conversion

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Nukeproof Dissent enduro conversion
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Posted: Jul 3, 2022 at 3:23 Quote
Hello,

I'd like to buy this bike
https://www.bikeandspanner.co.uk/m1b42s1p8045/Nukeproof-Dissent-297-RS-2022/RS_GB

or the cheaper version: https://www.bikeandspanner.co.uk/m1b0s1p7682/Nukeproof-Dissent-275-Comp-2021

and make a conversion for the cassette (like 10 speed enduro) as shown in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RDEAdYyB9I (summary at the end Smile )

Do I really need to take the RS model? The basic model looks quite similar to me.
I ride for fun, I don't think that the RS model would give me any benefit...
There is 1500 pounds price difference (3500 vs 5000 pounds), quite a lot for minimal differences (based on my usage), plus, I could use this budget to upgrade the cassette etc to make it more enduro...
I need to clarify that I don't plan to really do enduro with it, mostly, it's all about making it easier to pedal up.
What do you think?

I also would like to replace the mono with one that offers the possibility to lock it, so when I cycle up I don't soffer too much Big Grin , that would cost a lot and probably it will go for the next year or instead to service the mono, I'll replace it.

Initially I was oriented to an eMTB, but finding one is quite difficult, especially with double crown forks... In any case, the price range is 7k, quite a difference.

The tracks where I ride are a mix of enduro and downhill, but mostly enduro I'd say, no so many huge DH jumps.
I would ride in a proper DH park probably a couple of times a year, they are not so close to me unfortunately.

Posted: Jul 3, 2022 at 14:29 Quote
If you want to pedal up stuff and most riding is enduro style downhills why not just buy an enduro bike? DH bikes generally pedal pretty poorly uphill, but enduro bikes are mostly surprisingly good. Pick up something like a Nukeproof Giga or Transition Spire alloy etc. Could always sell the standard fork and bang a dual crown on it if that’s what you’re after.

Posted: Jul 3, 2022 at 18:22 Quote
@JoeBristol, some DH bikes aren't so great uphill. But not all.

But @Xav90, frames on the Nukeproofs you've linked there may be reasonable, the choice of drivetrain is most certainly not.

SRAM derailiuers don't have an adjustable clutch anymore, so when they go loose or fail there's nothing you can do but replace them. Shimano are the only derailiuers now you can adjust a clutch with now.

Posted: Jul 4, 2022 at 3:07 Quote
Thanks for the answer both.

JoeBristol wrote:
If you want to pedal up stuff and most riding is enduro style downhills why not just buy an enduro bike? DH bikes generally pedal pretty poorly uphill, but enduro bikes are mostly surprisingly good. Pick up something like a Nukeproof Giga or Transition Spire alloy etc. Could always sell the standard fork and bang a dual crown on it if that’s what you’re after.

I live in UK, and I think you too guys, the bike parks that I usually ride are only Downhill, but they look like bike parks rather than the Alps.
My main usage would be going "down the hill", but I'd like to have a bike that can bring me up without a crazy effort, so I was thinking that changing the cassette and eventually also the mono could resolve the problem.
I'm always of the idea that I won't be cycling much uphill anyway due to the amount of protections I wear, so I see it only as an improvement, not as a solution to the effort that a DH bike takes.

A rear travel of 180mm max of an enduro is not a solution for DH, big jumps bottom front and rear without doubts.
I don't want an enduro because they bottom up easily, even the best 180mm suspension...

Changing the suspension later is pointless I think, plus I don't know what bike supports such conversion...

M0rd4c4i wrote:
@JoeBristol, some DH bikes aren't so great uphill. But not all.

But @Xav90, frames on the Nukeproofs you've linked there may be reasonable, the choice of drivetrain is most certainly not.

SRAM derailiuers don't have an adjustable clutch anymore, so when they go loose or fail there's nothing you can do but replace them. Shimano are the only derailiuers now you can adjust a clutch with now.

I actually have that problem with a Shimano Big Grin .
I'll keep an eye on that, I think that at the next maintenance, I'll replace all the transmission, probably 250 pounds...

When you say drivetrain, do you mean that it's single crown in front? I can't change that unfortunately, but I think that a 10-12 speed cassette in the back should be fine.

In any case, do you see any substantial difference between the RS and stock model? There is 1500 pounds difference of stuff that I probably don't need.

I think I'll also set a drop sit, though I'm not sure how dangerous it is when going down hill Rolleyes

Posted: Jul 4, 2022 at 4:00 Quote
By drivetrain I mean crank, cassette and derailiuer.

But it's the derailiuer I'm more focused on than anything, especially when I see SRAM mentioned.

Personally for DH you can't really get better than Shimano Saint, good quality at a price that's acceptable.

Found out from updating my bike with it that you don't need the mode converter for the Deore XT 11-32 cassette, as with the mode converter the distance was impossible to set.

And for DH you're probably best with dual crown forks.

Also, what Shimano derailiuer have you had issues setting the clutch with?

And you're right, you can't adjust travel on a bike. It has what it has, but you can change the shocks and improve on things.

Posted: Jul 4, 2022 at 5:01 Quote
M0rd4c4i wrote:
By drivetrain I mean crank, cassette and derailiuer.

But it's the derailiuer I'm more focused on than anything, especially when I see SRAM mentioned.

Personally for DH you can't really get better than Shimano Saint, good quality at a price that's acceptable.

Found out from updating my bike with it that you don't need the mode converter for the Deore XT 11-32 cassette, as with the mode converter the distance was impossible to set.

And for DH you're probably best with dual crown forks.

Also, what Shimano derailiuer have you had issues setting the clutch with?

And you're right, you can't adjust travel on a bike. It has what it has, but you can change the shocks and improve on things.

Thanks for these details.
I don't remember the model of my current Shimano, and I'm a bit surprised that you mentioned the clutch, I see a spring there, cable and the common rotors, or probably it's just a way to say it Big Grin .

I could replace the entire transmission later, I can't do anything now on that bike.

Actually, I wanted to buy a Propain, I believe it's the best bike out there when you have my expectations, it's all about the level of customization on the website. They also include the shock that can be locked, so sweet for me.
The problem is that the summer will end soon, and the current forecast is the end of October from them, plus there's can be additional delay... It's also less expensive but...

So I thought to this Nukeproof because is in UK, it's available and probably I can use the cycle to work scheme on it, which will make it much cheaper than a propain.
To be honest, it's all about the time of delivery, otherwise I would have gone with Propain.

Posted: Jul 4, 2022 at 5:02 Quote
Depending on your seat height for pedaling, you might end up really far back.

Posted: Jul 4, 2022 at 13:24 Quote
Been there, done that. If you're doing it to tinker, go for it, Not for the faint of wallet and definitely not something that's needed with the progression of modern bikes. There are enduro bikes and single crowns at Rampage. Let's be serious, if you're not racing its pretty unlikely you're gonna need all that cush for everything you're planning to do.

Some useful comments in here to pay attention to. Mine was a "what if" spare parts experiment that I took down pretty quick. The highlights are difficulty sizing/making a drivetrain work with the extreme chain growth of many DH linkage designs, 1997 will call you personally and ask for its seat angle back, and you may have trouble getting the seat low enough because DH frames tend to lack insertion needed for longer droppers if one even fits at all.

TLDR: buy a bike that does all of this better out the box. Spindrift, SB165, 161, etc. It will be a smaller compromise.

Posted: Jul 4, 2022 at 15:19 Quote
Xav90 wrote:
M0rd4c4i wrote:
By drivetrain I mean crank, cassette and derailiuer.

But it's the derailiuer I'm more focused on than anything, especially when I see SRAM mentioned.

Personally for DH you can't really get better than Shimano Saint, good quality at a price that's acceptable.

Found out from updating my bike with it that you don't need the mode converter for the Deore XT 11-32 cassette, as with the mode converter the distance was impossible to set.

And for DH you're probably best with dual crown forks.

Also, what Shimano derailiuer have you had issues setting the clutch with?

And you're right, you can't adjust travel on a bike. It has what it has, but you can change the shocks and improve on things.

Thanks for these details.
I don't remember the model of my current Shimano, and I'm a bit surprised that you mentioned the clutch, I see a spring there, cable and the common rotors, or probably it's just a way to say it Big Grin .

I could replace the entire transmission later, I can't do anything now on that bike.

Actually, I wanted to buy a Propain, I believe it's the best bike out there when you have my expectations, it's all about the level of customization on the website. They also include the shock that can be locked, so sweet for me.
The problem is that the summer will end soon, and the current forecast is the end of October from them, plus there's can be additional delay... It's also less expensive but...

So I thought to this Nukeproof because is in UK, it's available and probably I can use the cycle to work scheme on it, which will make it much cheaper than a propain.
To be honest, it's all about the time of delivery, otherwise I would have gone with Propain.

If it is one of the clutch derailiuers you'll find the clutch hidden behind a cover at the bottom of the derailiuer and or top of the cage.

Best thing to see what I mean is to look on YouTube for videos on setting the clutch your particular model.

You will at least need a small spanner, and possibly a torque wrench.

Posted: Jul 5, 2022 at 3:55 Quote
I'm sensing either great naivety of modern enduro bikes, an internet troll or someone who genuinely doesn't have a clue about bikes...

Posted: Jul 5, 2022 at 4:09 Quote
HaggeredShins wrote:
Been there, done that. If you're doing it to tinker, go for it, Not for the faint of wallet and definitely not something that's needed with the progression of modern bikes. There are enduro bikes and single crowns at Rampage. Let's be serious, if you're not racing its pretty unlikely you're gonna need all that cush for everything you're planning to do.

Some useful comments in here to pay attention to. Mine was a "what if" spare parts experiment that I took down pretty quick. The highlights are difficulty sizing/making a drivetrain work with the extreme chain growth of many DH linkage designs, 1997 will call you personally and ask for its seat angle back, and you may have trouble getting the seat low enough because DH frames tend to lack insertion needed for longer droppers if one even fits at all.

TLDR: buy a bike that does all of this better out the box. Spindrift, SB165, 161, etc. It will be a smaller compromise.

Hi, you're right regarding DH races, but I won't race, so if my suspension has to be replaced after 2 days, for me it's a big expense Big Grin .
I do agree that I can ride with those enduro bikes (well as long as I don't land badly), but they don't make sense money wise.
Plus, a DH bike is much more comfortable to ride, but I think that I'll prioritize the longevity of the bike, rather than the comfort.

The dropper sit is a great problem, I need to check better... But I'm concerned about the lenght when I cycle up, when I go down I don't care as long as it's low.

Posted: Jul 5, 2022 at 4:10 Quote
Mully1906 wrote:
I'm sensing either great naivety of modern enduro bikes, an internet troll or someone who genuinely doesn't have a clue about bikes...

Your message is useless if you don't explain what you mean.
Plus, not everyone may be pro like you, didn't you think about it? Big Grin

Posted: Jul 5, 2022 at 5:55 Quote
Xav90 wrote:
Mully1906 wrote:
I'm sensing either great naivety of modern enduro bikes, an internet troll or someone who genuinely doesn't have a clue about bikes...

Your message is useless if you don't explain what you mean.
Plus, not everyone may be pro like you, didn't you think about it? Big Grin

Modern enduro bikes are massively capable. A DH bike is way too overkill for 95% of what you can ride in the UK.

Getting a bike such as a Nukeproof Giga, Vitus Sommet, YT Capra or similar will be more than enough for the type of riding you describe - as long as you set the suspension up correctly. Plus - all these bikes come with a dropper seat post, proper drivetrain and sorted suspension as standard - and you can actually pedal them up a hill.

If all you want to do is race DH at a high level, then by all means buy a DH bike. But for literally EVERYTHING else, a modern enduro bike is more than capable.

Posted: Jul 5, 2022 at 6:41 Quote
From what you've said just buy an enduro bike! you are mainly doing enduro riding, and there are some cracking bikes around for the same sort of £3500 of the Dissent Comp. The Nukeproof Giga is basically a shorter travel dissent, starts at around £3600, you could pick up the Nukeproof Mega comp for around £3k, Privateer 161, Specialized Status 160, Trek Slash 7 or 8, Vitus Sommet.

You are looking at eaily sending another £500+ to get a new Cassette, deraileur, chain and dropper post on the dissent, plus trying to fit a dropper in the first place. For most UK bike parks I'd say an enduro bike is a better shout anyway.

Posted: Jul 5, 2022 at 7:58 Quote
Xav90 wrote:
Mully1906 wrote:
I'm sensing either great naivety of modern enduro bikes, an internet troll or someone who genuinely doesn't have a clue about bikes...

Your message is useless if you don't explain what you mean.
Plus, not everyone may be pro like you, didn't you think about it? Big Grin

I think details like this are what he's talking about...

Xav90 wrote:
so if my suspension has to be replaced after 2 days, for me it's a big expense Big Grin

Speaking of expense, I'd pay very close attention to the notes I dropped above if you're truly intent on doing this. Unless you're a seasoned mechanic who understands how all these parts come together effectively and under unusual use (that is not coming across, no offense intended) you're going to be in for a very difficult and costly adventure. What everyone here is pointing out, there's a more cost and performance efficient solution to the problem you're trying to solve.

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