Hi! I recently ordered the new Sender CFR in Underdog version and I am waiting for a prepayment email but that is a different story. Now let's get to the important stuff. I am a person who makes plans before things happen so I am trying to figure out what to buy before the bike arrives so I can tune it up on day one. Firstly, do y'all think the new sender is going to hold up strength- wise and not crack like basically all canyons. I am going tubeless as soon as it comes and I want to ask if anyone has experience with that type of stuff. Normally, the wheelset from this bike (F1900) comes taped and tubeless ready. Is there a chance that Canyon buys them for cheaper without tape or something like this resulting in rims with just bandage? That is not really a concern as I can tape it myself. My big question is about the headset. I know they have been using plastic parts for a while and I wanna ask if I can put some aftermarket alloy parts there without buying a whole new headset. I was thinking of Fsa Orbit 1 compression ring and crown race, 1 1/8 both, 36/45 angle. I do not know what the stock headset is on that bike and I am just assuming that it is an IS41 with 36/45 degrees on both bearings and 30mm crown race with a 28.6mm compression ring. Can I fit such parts on this headset without issues? The bearings are pretty much standard there so I guess it should work but I just had to ask! Thanks in advance!!!
Hi! I recently ordered the new Sender CFR in Underdog version and I am waiting for a prepayment email but that is a different story. Now let's get to the important stuff. I am a person who makes plans before things happen so I am trying to figure out what to buy before the bike arrives so I can tune it up on day one. Firstly, do y'all think the new sender is going to hold up strength- wise and not crack like basically all canyons. I live in a country with a life quality that is below average and the money I'm going to spend on this bike is like a fortune to me. Should I he confident nothing will go wrong??? Also, if it does, will they replace the frame for free if it is a crack that appears while riding normally without crashing? I am going tubeless as soon as it comes and I want to ask if anyone has experience with that type of stuff. Normally, the wheelset from this bike (F1900) comes taped and tubeless ready. Is there a chance that Canyon buys them for cheaper without tape or something like this resulting in rims with just bandage? That is not really a concern as I can tape it myself. My big question is about the headset. I know they have been using plastic parts for a while and I wanna ask if I can put some aftermarket alloy parts there without buying a whole new headset. I was thinking of Fsa Orbit 1 compression ring and crown race, 1 1/8 both, 36/45 angle. I do not know what the stock headset is on that bike and I am just assuming that it is an IS41 with 36/45 degrees on both bearings and 30mm crown race with a 28.6mm compression ring. Can I fit such parts on this headset without issues? The bearings are pretty much standard there so I guess it should work but I just had to ask! Thanks in advance!!!
You seem to be worring to much in the first place. Usually you just need to insert new valve and thats it.
Canyon has very good customer service so I would not worry about cracks unless its after a huge crash.
I dunno if they still use that plastic spacers but I didint have much problems with them if you tighten them as you're supposed to - just lightly. I would say 5nm maximum when it comes to headset bolt. Also its crucial to align inner plastic part properly so the thickest part makes 1 line with your front tire. People who destroyed them are usually ones that rotated it while putting inside and left the weakest part of it align with the front tire and this is the place where the biggest force is applied on the head tube.
So if you have your spacers installed properly, the only way to crack them is by landing with your wheel sideways.
Imo these spacers are not that bad if they just attached instruction how to assamble it after basic maintenance like cleaning headset.
Totally fair to plan ahead, especially when that bike is such a big investment. The new Sender CFR is a serious machine, and while Canyon has had its share of frame issues in the past, the latest models have seen improvements in durability. Still, cracks can happen, and yes, if it's a clear warranty issue (like a non-crash crack), Canyon will typically replace the frame under warranty. Keep all receipts and documentation just in case.
As for the F1900 wheelset, they’re usually tubeless-ready from DT Swiss, meaning taped and with valves, but it’s smart to double-check ,some builds do get shipped missing tape. You can always re-tape for peace of mind.
Regarding the headset: yes, Canyon often uses cheaper plastic headset parts, but if it’s a standard IS41/IS52 setup (very likely), you can swap in quality alloy parts like the FSA Orbit 1 pieces you mentioned, just make sure the angles (36/45) and dimensions match. Bearings are usually standard, so upgrading just the crown race and compression ring should work fine without needing a full headset.
Hey - hoping into the conversation and looking for advice on a Sender headset that just won’t stay tight. Anyone else had this issue and found a solution? Everything has been replaced with help of LBS but didn’t solve the problem
Hey - hoping into the conversation and looking for advice on a Sender headset that just won’t stay tight. Anyone else had this issue and found a solution? Everything has been replaced with help of LBS but didn’t solve the problem
Usually its a problem with spacers or steering tube cut too long, but still can be adjusted with spacers. Or knowing Canyon they have their weird headset invention still causing problems.
Totally fair to plan ahead, especially when that bike is such a big investment. The new Sender CFR is a serious machine, and while Canyon has had its share of frame issues in the past, the latest models have seen improvements in durability. Still, cracks can happen, and yes, if it's a clear warranty issue (like a non-crash crack), Canyon will typically replace the frame under warranty. Keep all receipts and documentation just in case.
As for the F1900 wheelset, they’re usually tubeless-ready from DT Swiss, meaning taped and with valves, but it’s smart to double-check ,some builds do get shipped missing tape. You can always re-tape for peace of mind.
Regarding the headset: yes, Canyon often uses cheaper plastic headset parts, but if it’s a standard IS41/IS52 setup (very likely), you can swap in quality alloy parts like the FSA Orbit 1 pieces you mentioned, just make sure the angles (36/45) and dimensions match. Bearings are usually standard, so upgrading just the crown race and compression ring should work fine without needing a full headset.
Hi, I am very sorry for the late reply. I just did not see any replies here a few days after I posted it and I just kind of forgot about it. I bought it and had around 10 days of serious riding most of which were race training runs at a bike park so we are talking about 10 hard runs every day. I am going to share my thoughts. First of all: ride feel is unmatched. Stable yet agile and maneuverable, jumps well, only downside is that the bashguard hit my start gate everytime when I was on the Low setting. I did not even get into a bad situation once. It seems to keep you safe even when you ride fast. I had some headset creaking but it is okay since the tracks were pure dust. Creaking amounts actually depend on preload which is something I have never encountered. Keep it 2.5Nm and it is quiet most of the time. I have to say everything there is made of metal so thanks to Canyon for not putting the cheap stuff there. The crown race has offset because the lower crown wouldn't clear the frame so you cannot really replace it. It has some seal but it is far from perfect. The upper bearing sticks out of the reach cup like 1mm and the top cap has no seal so that is kinda bad but it does not really get very dirty so it is okay, I am planning to put an O-ring there between the cup and the top cap. The frame is very stiff, It took some really big hits without budging, the bashguard also got smashed many times and neither it or the frame are damaged. Some of the plastic on the guide is gone but everything is straight and tight. Overall very good experience but that ends here. I broke both wheels, I was running the front without an insert at 24psi, I hit some rock due to a bad line choice and it cracked in 2 places, 1.5cm cracks from 2 spoke holes(not next to each other). The rim dented a little bit where I hit it and that caused one crack, the other one is a mistery. Still ran strong and straight tho. I just tightened the 2 spokes. Continued to ride like that because of the race on Sunday. It all went fine until race day came. In the middle of the first training run I felt my rear tyre was a little soft before a rock garden and when I went through it, I felt something real bad. I hit it so hard it did the same thing as the front but the crack was much worse and it got a little flat and the spokes punctured the tape so I didn't make it to the race. Disclaimer: I ran Tannus Armour+ Michelin DH22 wire bead tire at 29psi on the rear.
Hey - hoping into the conversation and looking for advice on a Sender headset that just won’t stay tight. Anyone else had this issue and found a solution? Everything has been replaced with help of LBS but didn’t solve the problem
I have not had such issues. The whole headset area is really stiff and I have zero play even at 2nm of preload. Your situation seems odd. If you have changed your reach cups, have you put the seals on the new ones? That is a mistake I made, not crucial but the seals ensure a tight fit and there cannot be play if everything is installed correctly. Which sender do you have tho? If it is the Gen2, then you may have some other problems. I would be happy to help if your bike is same as mine