Home Made Bikes

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flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 21:46 Quote
sorry i couldn't get it up earlier my computer was being held hostage by a a web browser called sweet packs..... but here it is this is the linkage design @ estimated sag(25%). all the curves and the design uncompressed/ fully compressed are in my photo albums
photo
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 22:14 Quote
I would move the linkage below the top tube to bring the cog down, that could also allow for a traditional seat tube which may make fabrication less difficult.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 22:44 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
I would move the linkage below the top tube to bring the cog down, that could also allow for a traditional seat tube which may make fabrication less difficult.
im trying to do that right now but it is a toss up between a bent seat post or a design more like this
flag WestCoastGhost
Posted: Sep 27, 2014 at 23:51 Quote
You could attach the pushrod linkage to the bottom of the rear triangle and flip the rocker so the shock is compressed towards the front of the bike. Pullrods instead of pushrods? It would be hard to avoid the hub. Hope that makes sense.
flag CameronRose
Posted: Sep 28, 2014 at 0:47 Quote
I like that you're trying to design something innovative however, there's a limit.
flag ajax-ripper
Posted: Sep 28, 2014 at 2:40 Quote
Could you post your geometry abs pivot placement (BB as the reference point)? I have an idea that could help significantly
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 28, 2014 at 8:18 Quote
WestCoastGhost wrote:
You could attach the pushrod linkage to the bottom of the rear triangle and flip the rocker so the shock is compressed towards the front of the bike. Pullrods instead of pushrods? It would be hard to avoid the hub. Hope that makes sense.
I'm going to try that but it while be hard to fit shock into frame.
flag ridgidframe
Posted: Sep 28, 2014 at 8:18 Quote
ajax-ripper wrote:
Could you post your geometry abs pivot placement (BB as the reference point)? I have an idea that could help significantly
I'll pm you.
flag Matt-hoad
Posted: Sep 28, 2014 at 12:02 Quote
without making myself look like a prick. How would i go about creating my own frame (what this design software people are using). Also will it then be super expensive to have my model printed.

thanks
matt
flag Arnoodles
Posted: Sep 28, 2014 at 12:20 Quote
Matt-hoad wrote:
without making myself look like a prick. How would i go about creating my own frame (what this design software people are using). Also will it then be super expensive to have my model printed.

thanks
matt
Linkage, and yes. 3d printed models cost a few hundred a piece minimum.
flag beef5030
O+
Posted: Sep 28, 2014 at 19:38 Quote
I'm using solid works.
flag acboyd656
O+
Posted: Oct 5, 2014 at 10:46 Quote
Solid works and creo parametric are my favorite. They are both pretty user friendly and easy to figure out. Both are expensive though. Unless you have morals like me and don't mind pirating.

You can't use printed parts for an actual working model. 3D printing or "rapid prototyping " is just that, a prototype. Even with printers capable of metallic parts, anything you print won't be nearly strong enough to use on a bike. There are applications where printed parts can be used as working parts, but not high stress applications.

Let's say you do want to prototype some linkage pieces (don't even think of prototyping tubing), you are looking at a minimum of $5 an in^3 for something like abs plastic. There may be something g cheaper though. That's assuming you own your own printer, otherwise you have set up fees and labor. Check out RedEye. They will give you an instant price quote, you just have to upload am STL file.

You need to make friends with someone with a mill and lathe, and an experienced tig welder. I've never made a bike though, so I'm probably not the best source of info.
flag Mini-Pinner
Posted: Oct 5, 2014 at 21:47 Quote
acboyd656 wrote:
Solid works and creo parametric are my favorite. They are both pretty user friendly and easy to figure out. Both are expensive though. Unless you have morals like me and don't mind pirating.

You can't use printed parts for an actual working model. 3D printing or "rapid prototyping " is just that, a prototype. Even with printers capable of metallic parts, anything you print won't be nearly strong enough to use on a bike. There are applications where printed parts can be used as working parts, but not high stress applications.

Let's say you do want to prototype some linkage pieces (don't even think of prototyping tubing), you are looking at a minimum of $5 an in^3 for something like abs plastic. There may be something g cheaper though. That's assuming you own your own printer, otherwise you have set up fees and labor. Check out RedEye. They will give you an instant price quote, you just have to upload am STL file.

You need to make friends with someone with a mill and lathe, and an experienced tig welder. I've never made a bike though, so I'm probably not the best source of info.
$5 per cubic inch is way off unless your printing solid instead of honeycomb in which case your biggest problem will be the 5 day print time not the cost. IMO 3d printing is not worth it unless you have your own so that you can change the model and reprint until your satisfied that you are ready to make it out of metal . I would say that a mill would be helpful but is not necessary as long as you use a little creativity and you don't mind if your bike looks a little extra homemade. A lathe would be hard to go without but you could easily pay a local machinist to do the small a mount of lathe work necessary if you can't access one. As for welding. Tig is considered the best however on a steel frame you can't go wrong with fillet brazing. Plenty strong and I think it's easier to learn as the heat is much lower so you just take your time. Also, you can see exactly what your doing. For mitering tubes, you can either get a special jig for the lathe or use a file and a Dremel. There is free software which lets you print out a cutting template called tubemitre.exe I believe.
flag acboyd656
O+
Posted: Oct 6, 2014 at 6:13 Quote
Mini-Pinner wrote:
acboyd656 wrote:
Solid works and creo parametric are my favorite. They are both pretty user friendly and easy to figure out. Both are expensive though. Unless you have morals like me and don't mind pirating.

You can't use printed parts for an actual working model. 3D printing or "rapid prototyping " is just that, a prototype. Even with printers capable of metallic parts, anything you print won't be nearly strong enough to use on a bike. There are applications where printed parts can be used as working parts, but not high stress applications.

Let's say you do want to prototype some linkage pieces (don't even think of prototyping tubing), you are looking at a minimum of $5 an in^3 for something like abs plastic. There may be something g cheaper though. That's assuming you own your own printer, otherwise you have set up fees and labor. Check out RedEye. They will give you an instant price quote, you just have to upload am STL file.

You need to make friends with someone with a mill and lathe, and an experienced tig welder. I've never made a bike though, so I'm probably not the best source of info.
$5 per cubic inch is way off unless your printing solid instead of honeycomb in which case your biggest problem will be the 5 day print time not the cost. IMO 3d printing is not worth it unless you have your own so that you can change the model and reprint until your satisfied that you are ready to make it out of metal . I would say that a mill would be helpful but is not necessary as long as you use a little creativity and you don't mind if your bike looks a little extra homemade. A lathe would be hard to go without but you could easily pay a local machinist to do the small a mount of lathe work necessary if you can't access one. As for welding. Tig is considered the best however on a steel frame you can't go wrong with fillet brazing. Plenty strong and I think it's easier to learn as the heat is much lower so you just take your time. Also, you can see exactly what your doing. For mitering tubes, you can either get a special jig for the lathe or use a file and a Dremel. There is free software which lets you print out a cutting template called tubemitre.exe I believe.

It's still $5 per cubic inch whether you print solid or honeycomb. You are paying for material not the size of the part.
flag Arnoodles
Posted: Oct 6, 2014 at 6:40 Quote
acboyd656 wrote:
Mini-Pinner wrote:
acboyd656 wrote:
Solid works and creo parametric are my favorite. They are both pretty user friendly and easy to figure out. Both are expensive though. Unless you have morals like me and don't mind pirating.

You can't use printed parts for an actual working model. 3D printing or "rapid prototyping " is just that, a prototype. Even with printers capable of metallic parts, anything you print won't be nearly strong enough to use on a bike. There are applications where printed parts can be used as working parts, but not high stress applications.

Let's say you do want to prototype some linkage pieces (don't even think of prototyping tubing), you are looking at a minimum of $5 an in^3 for something like abs plastic. There may be something g cheaper though. That's assuming you own your own printer, otherwise you have set up fees and labor. Check out RedEye. They will give you an instant price quote, you just have to upload am STL file.

You need to make friends with someone with a mill and lathe, and an experienced tig welder. I've never made a bike though, so I'm probably not the best source of info.
$5 per cubic inch is way off unless your printing solid instead of honeycomb in which case your biggest problem will be the 5 day print time not the cost. IMO 3d printing is not worth it unless you have your own so that you can change the model and reprint until your satisfied that you are ready to make it out of metal . I would say that a mill would be helpful but is not necessary as long as you use a little creativity and you don't mind if your bike looks a little extra homemade. A lathe would be hard to go without but you could easily pay a local machinist to do the small a mount of lathe work necessary if you can't access one. As for welding. Tig is considered the best however on a steel frame you can't go wrong with fillet brazing. Plenty strong and I think it's easier to learn as the heat is much lower so you just take your time. Also, you can see exactly what your doing. For mitering tubes, you can either get a special jig for the lathe or use a file and a Dremel. There is free software which lets you print out a cutting template called tubemitre.exe I believe.

It's still $5 per cubic inch whether you print solid or honeycomb. You are paying for material not the size of the part.
Honeycomb is hollow, so less material...

 


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