change the frame stinky suspension design isnt all that great you can find way better out there for the same price. but if you doing more freeriding get the stinky
Since your budget is very tight, that spec list is about as good as you can do. It's a solid list and I think you'll be happy with it. You could even go as low as Deore on the derailleur, since Deore works perfectly well and won't make you cry if you break it!
Hey man if you,re into stinkys I'd look at this, http://www.irishdh.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?t=4470 And then use the left over money to switch out anything you dont want.
Personnaly, mechanical discs brakes on a heavy duty dh/fr bike is not the way to go. You'll suffer from hand fatigue too much often!
The BB7 works super well, especially with an 8" rotor and one of Avid's Speed Dial series lever. Not as smooth as hydraulic, but extremely powerful. It's a solid choice for those on a tight budget.
Well maybe but if you are going solid downhill 5+minutes runs without too much stops...Then I'm not sure at all with mechanical DB!
I've found some low end hydro to get me damn quickly pain in hands (muscular fatigue)... I know the BB9 are very powerful for mechanical discs brakes but I'm pretty sure the guy will need to stop more often that usual to recover.
Well maybe but if you are going solid downhill 5+minutes runs without too much stops...Then I'm not sure at all with mechanical DB!
I've found some low end hydro to get me damn quickly pain in hands (muscular fatigue)... I know the BB9 are very powerful for mechanical discs brakes but I'm pretty sure the guy will need to stop more often that usual to recover.
I find good cable discs are far superior to cheap hydraulics. For a while, Avid tried to market the BB mechanical series as their most hardcore downhill brakes because they do have all the power of good hydraulics (if you use the right levers) and they will never, ever, pump up due to overheating.
Set up a BB mechanical brake with a SD lever and there won't be issues with hand fatigue. I recommend adjusting the Speed Dial knob between mid and max power on the front and min on the rear. You might not even need that much power on the front, since a BB7 with a 6" rotor was one of the most powerful set-ups I've ever tested when the Speed Dial was set to max; run an 8" rotor and that thing will be ferocious.
Interesting...Never tryed high end mech discs brakes...
But tryed Hayes nine witch gave me pain in the hands as the lever was on/off. I have found my way with Avid Juicy 7'. Not the most powerfull on the market but light and great modulation! BTW, as I'm 126 lbs, I really don't need more powerfull brakes.
Well this is it for the "tchat" with r-m-r! Now your bike...
Kona frames are great for freeriding as the travel is one of the most linear ever made on a bike resulting in best absorbtion of vertical hits. In downhill, you'll found rock to slow you a little but as I don't think you are racing, it will not be an issue. Otherwise, the feeling is great as you can "feel" the bike on this type of suspension.
For the fork, keep in mind that 2004 was not the best year for rock shox. A hint : Don't play too much with the adjustments and don't put too much force on the adjuster knobs to avoid busting the rebound cardridge. A friend of mine did it...Covered by warranty for him but that was long time ago.
For the wheels and crank and chain, nothing to say...seems great!
For the brake, r-m-r put all is thrust in your choice so I'll follow him.
For the tires, be sure to get the heavy duty casting as their is two version...On that always do snakebites and the HD version that works great, especially in wet.
Finally, you can get a deore derailleur that will shift well for less and have money to but a couple of beer ...
wel im 14 so dont need the beer thanks for the advice on the fork but i can get get it for 165 euro ($220) so what you think?? and your right im not racing so its all good