Has anyone had a problem with dt swiss pro lock nipples rounding over? Im getting the spoke tension up to 17-18 and anything past that they just round over
I don't use ProLock nipples because linseed oil is a superior thread locker.
I think im going to quit using them cause it seems to be a common problem when i build my wheels. I built a buddies wheelset with blue loctite and plain raw alloy nipples and didnt have one issue with those. Both times i didnt lube rim or nipple interface
Hi Guys. I'm looking to lace a new rim (most likely Dt swiss ex511 to the existing hub from my bontrager line comp 30 wheel set as I have buggered the rims. ( On my remedy)(28hole) The major piece of advice I am looking for is how to calculate the spoke legnth. The holes on the orIginla rim are slightly off centre so I wonder if the dish is the normal amount and therefore needs to be considered? I plan to just loosely lace the rim on and take it to the LBS for the final tension. Also is is recommened to use loctite or oil on the spoke threads? If I went with a rim with the same depth as the ex 511, Eg. Ex471 would the spoke legnth be the same? Thanks for any advice
OK I picked up a set of Novatec Straight Pull Road Disc hubs, specifically the D411SB and D412SB models. I'm having trouble getting the calculation right. I tried to input the numbers into the DT Swiss spoke calculator but I just want another sanity check before ordering spokes or getting them cut.
It's being laced to a rim with an ERD of 567mm and there's nothing special about it, no asymmetry, no offset, not internal nipple.
Specs from Novatec catalogue and their website (prior to their site redesign) are:
Can someone double check what I've input into this calculator and let me know the spoke lengths they come out with? https://spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/calculator
I just built a Front WTB Asym i23 on Hope pro 4 28hole, Sapim race spokes, brass black nipples. This will have been my 9th wheel I've built and I can see the negative of 28 spokes much more sensitive to tensions but anyway. What got me was the whole Asymmetric thing supposedly making for even tension but it hasn't it's virtually no different to any other wheel I've built on regular rims. 24 on a park tool non drive side and 21 on drive side.
Does anyone have experience with both Flow MK3s and Arch MK3s for the rear wheel?
I'm building a 29 inch wheel set with DT Swiss 350s, Competition spokes, Flow MK3 for the front wheel and I'm stuck between a Flow or Arch for the rear wheel. Is the additional 67 grams on the Flow noticeable on long climbs and 6 hour rides? I'll be using a 2.3" Minion DHF and a 2.3" Aggressor depending on the conditions so the 26mm IW of the Arch will be fine but I'd prefer the Flow if the weight isn't noticeable.
I have a set with Arch MK3s on my 27.5" hardtail and they are great, they feel really light on the climbs but solid and sturdy in the rough stuff. They have taken a lot of abuse so I'm not worried about the durability of the Arch's. I'm only concerned with the weight difference.
So just rebuilt another wheel, people were quite right the Chain Reaction NukeProof Generator DH rims were made of cheese - survived one weeks riding in Gran Canaria staying true but didn't survive dent free so rebuilt today with DT Swiss EX471, very glad I bought the DT Swiss Squorks driver, would have been mega fiddly without it due to the washers.