My new Intense 951. Comments please

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My new Intense 951. Comments please
Author Message
FL
Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 22:25 Quote
d-bax wrote:
z-man wrote:
d-bax wrote:


i dont get why you would spend that much on a derailer. my x.9 has lasted over a year and costs less than a 3rd of the saint
well, i was averaging 3 derailleurs a year, the saint has saved me crazzy money.
thing is sooooo strong, and soooooo close to the bike. it shifts the exact same as the day i got it. so impressed. i literally have 5 dead x-0 derailleurs sitting in my house.
i guess it's my local trails, they're real tight and rocky, they love to eat derailleurs.

i have one dead x.7 at my house, as well as a deore, but thats about it. i ride rocky trail a lot and i have actually seen my derailler get crushed by rocks and it was still fine after wards. or maybe im just lucky..

Agreed. Nothing wrong with X9 rear derailler. Very durable! I hit a tree hard enough to rip the derailler striaght throu the threads on the hanger and the derailler itself was still still straight and fine. Re did the threads with a die cutter and it worked fine. No need to spend the extra money unless you want the color option or you are worried about weight.

FL
Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 22:29 Quote
Love the bike and build kit but for my money I would run Maxxis Minion tires. Other than that enjoy your bike!

Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 22:50 Quote
Downhill-Disaster wrote:
Love the bike and build kit but for my money I would run Maxxis Minion tires. Other than that enjoy your bike!


Thank you, I'm really considering putting a Minion 3C in the front...

O+
Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 22:51 Quote
hey man.. dont listen to all the crap that is getting thrown around in this thread.. If you feel like running x9/x7 combo then you do that.. I work at a shop and I still wouldnt ever run X0 stuff even tho I get stuff at cost. I would waay rather prefer two x9' s (one on the bike and one as a spair) that preform practically identialy on the trail. maybe in the parking lot you could feel the slightest difference between x9 and x0 but you get on the trail and that difference is gone.. and the x7 stuff works just fine too.. just ride what you have and if/ when it breaks then grab a x9 unless you feel like just being cool and running a X0 that costs twice as much but preforms about the same.

Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 23:08 Quote
still it's very personal and the fact is that the X7 uses the same 1:1 ratio as X9/X0,on my other bike i have a X7/X9 combo and it works pretty fine.Keep the X7 it's good enougth

Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 23:10 Quote
swan3609 wrote:
hey man.. dont listen to all the crap that is getting thrown around in this thread.. If you feel like running x9/x7 combo then you do that.. I work at a shop and I still wouldnt ever run X0 stuff even tho I get stuff at cost. I would waay rather prefer two x9' s (one on the bike and one as a spair) that preform practically identialy on the trail. maybe in the parking lot you could feel the slightest difference between x9 and x0 but you get on the trail and that difference is gone.. and the x7 stuff works just fine too.. just ride what you have and if/ when it breaks then grab a x9 unless you feel like just being cool and running a X0 that costs twice as much but preforms about the same.


Thank you 4 advice dude!


BTW, if you were to cut down some weight in my setup, spending less than 300 bucks, what would you change? What specific components?

I guess Ti spring would be the first thing (thats $140) so there are about 160 left to spend...

O+
Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 23:18 Quote
ivanfiestas wrote:
swan3609 wrote:
hey man.. dont listen to all the crap that is getting thrown around in this thread.. If you feel like running x9/x7 combo then you do that.. I work at a shop and I still wouldnt ever run X0 stuff even tho I get stuff at cost. I would waay rather prefer two x9' s (one on the bike and one as a spair) that preform practically identialy on the trail. maybe in the parking lot you could feel the slightest difference between x9 and x0 but you get on the trail and that difference is gone.. and the x7 stuff works just fine too.. just ride what you have and if/ when it breaks then grab a x9 unless you feel like just being cool and running a X0 that costs twice as much but preforms about the same.


Thank you 4 advice dude!


BTW, if you were to cut down some weight in my setup, spending less than 300 bucks, what would you change? What specific components?

I guess Ti spring would be the first thing (thats $140) so there are about 160 left to spend...

Good tires mean less rotational weight.. Ghetto tubeless..
A set of low profile pedals would be a good performance gain.. I am in love with the twenty6 pedals but I also get them cheaper..
ummm.... Ibeam seat/post.. Carbon bars.. direct mount stem.. Boxxer WC.. haha

But If I were you, I wouldnt get a ti spring.. get the fork set up with the right spring and then get pedals that are lower profile and then a carbon bar or a nice set of tires and go tubeless.

Posted: Nov 5, 2009 at 23:56 Quote
swan3609 wrote:
ivanfiestas wrote:
swan3609 wrote:
hey man.. dont listen to all the crap that is getting thrown around in this thread.. If you feel like running x9/x7 combo then you do that.. I work at a shop and I still wouldnt ever run X0 stuff even tho I get stuff at cost. I would waay rather prefer two x9' s (one on the bike and one as a spair) that preform practically identialy on the trail. maybe in the parking lot you could feel the slightest difference between x9 and x0 but you get on the trail and that difference is gone.. and the x7 stuff works just fine too.. just ride what you have and if/ when it breaks then grab a x9 unless you feel like just being cool and running a X0 that costs twice as much but preforms about the same.


Thank you 4 advice dude!


BTW, if you were to cut down some weight in my setup, spending less than 300 bucks, what would you change? What specific components?

I guess Ti spring would be the first thing (thats $140) so there are about 160 left to spend...

Good tires mean less rotational weight.. Ghetto tubeless..
A set of low profile pedals would be a good performance gain.. I am in love with the twenty6 pedals but I also get them cheaper..
ummm.... Ibeam seat/post.. Carbon bars.. direct mount stem.. Boxxer WC.. haha

But If I were you, I wouldnt get a ti spring.. get the fork set up with the right spring and then get pedals that are lower profile and then a carbon bar or a nice set of tires and go tubeless.

I though thw Sunline V1 was a very light bar...
The thing is a Ti spring cost about 140 bucks and cuts down around 200 grams compared to the a steel spring.
My pedals are the MG-1, they are made of magnesium... Again, I though those where very very light.
Im not changing my 40! Im in love with it, like it much better than the WC...

And to go tubeless, I'd need to buy new rims I guess... Or you reccomend getting a tubeless conversion kit?


Cheers and thanks for the advices!

Posted: Nov 6, 2009 at 0:41 Quote
If you can afford a CCDB and a 951 frame why are you running:

Outlaws
EC30
X.7

Nice bike though, I'm sure you're stoked.

Posted: Nov 6, 2009 at 9:52 Quote
iggz wrote:
If you can afford a CCDB and a 951 frame why are you running:

Outlaws
EC30
X.7

Nice bike though, I'm sure you're stoked.
Maybe because he ran out of money :p he also said he got the outlaws brand new for $150

O+
Posted: Nov 6, 2009 at 16:22 Quote
ivanfiestas wrote:
swan3609 wrote:
ivanfiestas wrote:



Thank you 4 advice dude!


BTW, if you were to cut down some weight in my setup, spending less than 300 bucks, what would you change? What specific components?

I guess Ti spring would be the first thing (thats $140) so there are about 160 left to spend...

Good tires mean less rotational weight.. Ghetto tubeless..
A set of low profile pedals would be a good performance gain.. I am in love with the twenty6 pedals but I also get them cheaper..
ummm.... Ibeam seat/post.. Carbon bars.. direct mount stem.. Boxxer WC.. haha

But If I were you, I wouldnt get a ti spring.. get the fork set up with the right spring and then get pedals that are lower profile and then a carbon bar or a nice set of tires and go tubeless.

I though thw Sunline V1 was a very light bar...
The thing is a Ti spring cost about 140 bucks and cuts down around 200 grams compared to the a steel spring.
My pedals are the MG-1, they are made of magnesium... Again, I though those where very very light.
Im not changing my 40! Im in love with it, like it much better than the WC...

And to go tubeless, I'd need to buy new rims I guess... Or you reccomend getting a tubeless conversion kit?


Cheers and thanks for the advices!

I would get the carbon bar more for the vibration dampening.. they work really well.. and they are light.. but if you like the V1 then thats what you should do..

and I guess I havnt ever looked into ti springs.. but thats a good weight savings for not to much.. and yea those are awesome pedals (I have the Onza version of them on my BMX bike) but a Low profile pedal would be a better preformer b/c it drops your foot closser to the center of the spindel there for lowering your COG a little bit..

and no dont buy a new wheel set.. look up ghetto tubeless and thats what I wuod do.. you use 20" tubes as a rim strip and what ever tires you run.. drops like 200 grams and yo can run lower pressure b/c pinch flatting and it is less rotational weight so the bike will accelerate faster

I was totally JK about the boxxer.. haha

Posted: Nov 6, 2009 at 21:10 Quote
i would not run the chunder, or anything not dualply. got way more flats than usual with them.

throw on something else, then you can drop the DH tubes too and put in normal tubes.

Posted: Nov 6, 2009 at 21:23 Quote
Thanks for the advices. Im going to try to go to Temecula next week, see Intense's headquarters and maybe see how they weld my own frame!

Posted: Nov 6, 2009 at 22:25 Quote
Can everyone shut up about the freakin derailleur talk

Posted: Nov 7, 2009 at 15:34 Quote
dutchster wrote:
i would not run the chunder, or anything not dualply. got way more flats than usual with them.

throw on something else, then you can drop the DH tubes too and put in normal tubes.

i havent gotten a flat with my chunder for over 3 months... running low psi


 


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