I clean my rotors and pads with rubbing alcohol after almost every ride and always get perfect braking. My last brake pads lasted almost 1000km of mountain riding on my Hayes Mag before I sold the bike. The front pads were still like new and the 2 seasons-old rear pads had still some life left. I've heard that soapy water and a rinse might also do it, but never tried it.
If they're contaminated I would just sand the rotor like you did and buy new pads. It's worth it.
Brake cleaner has some oil in it and will not be burnt on bike brakes. Just use it for cars.
No it doesn't, and car brakes don't usually get any hotter than MTB brakes. MTB brakes often get hotter than a car's brakes
Cars have MUCH bigger rotors and calipers to dissipate the increased energy of a stopping car.
Bikes are the same way, MUCH smaller mass, MUCH smaller brake systems.
why would they put oil in a degreaser? much less one intended for brakes?
In case you don't know Infiltrator, there are a lot of degreasers and solvents made with petroleum(oil)-based products. Brake cleaner is not, but there are many others that contain oil. Oil and grease don't have the same function, but we won't argue on that here.
A mechanic had told me that some car brake cleaners sometimes left an oily residue that wouldn't go off on bike brakes, but it probably happens when people don't clean/wipe the stuff enough, and then the oil/degreaser mixture drips everythwere, which leaves an oily film.
Now, since I don't use those products following my mechanic's recommendation, and I didn't search the web for hours concerning brake cleaner components, I thought I would trust him and just use alcohol. I didn't think about the car vs bike heating differences tho, and you're probbly right on that.
Anyway, like most MTB brake manufacturers say, I still wouldn't use or recommend brake cleaner on my bike parts. Even if your pads and rotors are glazed and there was oil on them, brake cleaner won't be enough. You have to sand both and then clean with alcohol, which will be powerful enough to clean everything once the glaze is gone.
from what is sounds like is you need to clean your pads and rotors, i had a similar problem,mine did the same as yours but not as bad as yours so i washed the rotors in hot soapy water and dried them them washed them with vodka. the pads i took out avoiding not to touch the surface sand with coarse sandpaper in different dirrections.
this had a massive increase in the grip i had. but when i got given these brakes i cleaned them, bled them and brought new hose and oil.
to put it simple:
remove all grease from braking surfaces fresh oil fresh hose new pads bleed properly with the lever pointing up align rotors to the caliper
thats all i done and now they stop me on the spot
if u dont know how to do that your self, which im guessin he doesnt because hes asking these questions, it would proably be easier to just get new brakes
true but not everyone has a large amount of cash to spend, were just tring to get him riding again as cheaply as possible. i got given some brakes , they were fine just needed some tlc and now they work good
to be quite honest they are crap brakes...ii,m running avid bb5 and bb7 mechanical and they work great after bedding in period...cheap too on chain reaction cycles
true but not everyone has a large amount of cash to spend, were just tring to get him riding again as cheaply as possible. i got given some brakes , they were fine just needed some tlc and now they work good
exacly why i asked thanks haha you put my thoughts in words!