Trail Building Guide. v.2

PB Forum :: Trail Building
Trail Building Guide. v.2
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Posted: Nov 22, 2007 at 7:16 Quote
Odin333 Trail Building Guide.


Hi, thanks for taking interest into my guide on how to trail build, please note though,

this is on my experiences with making my own trails and viewing other well built trails as

well as reading other guides.


This Guide is rather big so I will be using a tool that should work if your running

internet explorer, to use this simply press control+f and a screen will pop-up, simply

just type in the codes that are in capital.


CODE------------Topic----------------------

TJBG------------introduction to building
PAPTB-----------Picking a place to build.
LODS-------------Dealing with land owners
SYTER-----------Starting your trail.
HTBFT-----------How to Build Certain Features
JPTE------------Making Roll-ins
NOSID-----------Nails or Screws??
SDTNI-----------Making ramps.
UWISH-----------Drainage.
KKOT------------Keeping people of you trail
BAMSC-----------Trail Maintenance
FCTB------------Final Note
SOTG------------Bibliography and credits
DWTK------------Dealing With Kids
SFZC--------------Safe Fall Zones




TJBG
-----------Introduction to Building.


So it appears you want to be a trail builder? whatever your reason, your local trails

stink, you want your own idea's to become a reality, but theirs a few basic things you

should know about trail building.

1) its not an easy task building a trail, if your going to invest in building a trail you

should realize your investing tens of hours or even hundreds of hours into your trail.

2) Unfortunately your trails most likely won't stay hidden for ever, so be prepared for

vandalism or ruined trails.

3) After you build a trail you’re not done with it, if you don't maintain it you just threw

away all your time, like anything, you must take care of it.


These are the three basic rules I follow when building a trail, however these aren't the

only rules to be used while making a trail, and sometimes you need to come up with your

own rules.



PAPTB
------------Picking a place to build.


So the first things you need to figure out when building a trail is were your going to put

it. Here are a few tips on how to pick the right spot.

1) If you have a car that’s great, this means you probably could pick a forest or bush in

the middle of nowhere which will probably keep it hidden for a long time.

2) Never build were theirs construction, although this might be tempting I guarantee you

that it will be bulldozed down and all of your work will be gone.

3)if your unsure about were construction is going to be built head down to your city hall

and they usually have records and papers showing were construction is going to be built,

most of its planned out in years in advance.

4) if your building on your own land that’s probably the best thing for trail building as

you can say who can and can't use your trail as well as don't have to worry about anyone

ruining it.

5) places with a lot of people walking near the trail isn't a good idea, because they could

see you riding or end up deciding to walk through that area and finding your trails.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.chelmsford.gov.uk/media/image/5/2/Central_Park_(26)_large.jpgphoto: not a good place to build

6) The best thing to do is go after it rains to be your thinking of making your trail

and check that you won't have to worry about drainage and it won't be a swamp after it

rains.

7) choosing an area with a lot of dead tree's lying around and rocks is actually a good

thing to do as rocks are great for drainage and dead trees are great for building.

8 ) never decide to build in a public place such as the middle of a soccer field even if

its just a little dirt jump as you can actually get fined for doing that.

9) Don’t just look in one place for and decide its fine, I tend to look at 4 to 5 places

before deciding to build.

10) NEVER build by schools, especially high schools, students tend to head into forests to

do things they shouldn't or just to destroy anything they can find, which could be your

trail.


Even if you follow my tips I can't guarantee you that your spot is good, it’s up to you to

make good decisions of were to build.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.terminalia.org/mad/136.jpgpicture: an example of a good place to build


LODS
--------------------Dealing with Land owners


This is probably one of the things that make people really angry, land owners. But you have to remember that it’s their land and without their permission it’s trespassing.

The first things you’re going to want to do if find out who owns it. I’m pretty sure most cities’ have records about who owns the land so you would just have to go down to your city hall and ask to see them. Once you find what you’re looking for I suggest going to their house instead of calling. Don’t go around dinner time though or early in the morning because you might end up making them made which isn’t helping your cause. Knock on their door, be sure you’re wearing nice clothing too not a ripped up shirt that says I’m a little punk, even wear spandex to show that you’re a true biker. Tell them how it will be good for them and make sure you tell them it will be well maintained and liter less and could also serve as a nice walking trail. If they say no thank them for their time anyways.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/3326454/2/istockphoto_3326454_private_property_sign.jpgif you see this, don't build! ask first.




SYTER
-----------------------starting your trail


before you start building anything you need to plan it out, if you have one of those fancy

GPS that tell you were you went, just walk were you want your trail to be, if you don't

have one either get a lawnmower, drive mower, or push mower and cut out were you want the

trail (watch out for roots and rocks).


By now you have chosen a place to build, hopefully you followed my tips and used your own

common since and found the best place possible. But before you start building a trail

theirs a few things you will need before you start, bellow is a few lists of different

things you need to build certain features. Later on in this guide I will tell you how to

build them but before we start that stuff you should get these and ill explain why later

on.


NORMAL DIRT TRAIL.

shovel
Pitchfork
wheelbarrow (not necessary but very useful)
garden trowel
rake
hedge cutters


BERMS AND MAN-MADE HILLS

Shovel
wheelbarrow
axe/chainsaw
saw/chainsaw
knife

NATURAL NORTH SHORE BRIDGES (made out of wood found in forest)


Saw/Chainsaw
axe
Nails or screws (see guide on nails vs. screws)
hammer/drill
shovel
measuring tape

TREATED WOOD NORTH SHORE (wood bought from store)

saw
axe
nails/screws
hammer/drill
shovel
measuring tape
wood

ROCK FEATURES

shovel
chisel
hammer
rope

LARGE LOG RUNS

chisel
hammer
axe

CONCRETE FEATURES

concrete mix
water
shovel
son tubes or molds

There are two great tools that I have heard about the Pulaski and the Macleod.

A Pulaski is pretty much an axe and a pickaxe. It’s a great tool for cutting wood and I imagine that it can be used for a lot of other things and I advice picking one up if you don’t already have one.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/images/200/1571_w2.jpga pulaski

The Macleod is another tool I advise picking up it’s pretty much a rake and a pickaxe and could also could really help you build trails.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/images/200/1573_w2.jpga macleod




HTBFT
---------------how to build features



NORMAL DIRT TRAIL.


Most trails should have these. their the very basics of any trail and are used to ride on so you actually know

were your going.

to build them simply take a pitchfork and take off the top vegetation like grass , if you find rocks either dig it up with a shovel or build a small bump over

it by digging a hole about 20 feet away (it makes your trail look nice if theirs not big

holes right beside the trail) and pile the dirt up, and build a lump over the rock, or you could build a small sized jump that will make your trail more appealing to people who like to be in the air

If your trail has a lot of small twigs going all over the place take the hedge cutters and

cut them out of the way and then rake them up with the rake and put them to the side of

the trail or put them in a disposal bag if you don't want them near the trail.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.gocolumbiamo.com/ParksandRec/Images/Parks/cosmorhettsrun3.jpg

BERMS AND MAN MADE HILLS.


Berms are mostly part of any downhill trail; it can be also found in a cross country trail

and adds flow to any trail.

To construct berms I suggest using dead trees. find the largest dead tree you can find

and cut it into about one to one and a half foot parts, then stack them in the shape and

length of the berms that you want, next your going to need to dig a hole, don't build right

beside the berms or else your risking everything falling into the hole if your going really

fast when you use it. so go about 10 feet away and fill wheelbarrows full of dirt and dump

them over the wood, do this till all of the wood is covered with a far bit to spare, then

its time to shape the berms, I suggest if you built it tall to actually try to make a 90

degree section at the top for high speeds, then bellow it a 75 degree then about 35 degree

and then bring it down to level with the ground. remember a berms is under a lot of pressure

and if you do a half fast job you could easily get hurt, e.g. your flying down your trail

and you decide you want to ride the top of the berms and you didn't build it well, the

chances are the forces from your bike are going to push through the dirt and your going to

fall badly.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.nicomachus.net/images/bikes/imba/berm.jpg

Man Made Hills


are used to make step ups onto and go over things you don't really want. My

best solution is to pile up a lot of dead trees and possibly make a frame around the

outside using railway ties if you can afford them (49 cents each at Rona) this will make

sure everything doesn't fall away. once you have all the wood in place fill it with dirt,

go about 20 feet away and dig a hole and fill wheelbarrows then dump them on top, continue

till finished. after you finish all the piling it all up its time to pack it down,

smacking a shovel will take care of the top layer but if you can find something heavier

like an atv to drive over it a few times it should be solid as a rock.




NATURAL NORTHSHORE BRIDGES.


A natural north shore bridge is when you just use the wood in the forest (e.g. dead trees) to

build it instead of buying wood, its much cheaper and environmentally friendly, plus it

won't bother some environmentalists.

The first thing you need to do is figure out were you want to build the bridge and were

you want to put the posts to hold it up. The number one way to build bridge posts is to

find dead trees at least 15 centimeters wide and dig about a 2 foot hole, then stick the

post in and bury it. the best way to bury it is rocks then put dirt over it, then put

water over the dirt so it runs threw the rocks, after you have the posts you need to put

cross posts, these should actually be stronger then the posts I find, and then lie them

from post to post and nail them in, after you have all the posts and cross posts in place

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.nsmb.com/images/gear/slayer/natural.jpg
you need to make rungs, instead of me describing it to you use this excellent tutorial on

how to make rungs and make bridges if you didn't understand my help.

And NEVER NAIL INTO TREES!


http://vpfree.pinkbike.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=118934 how to make rungs

http://vpfree.pinkbike.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=107714 some more help with north shore




TREATED WOOD NORTHSHORE BRIDGES.


A treated wood north shore bridge is when you instead of using dead trees actually buy the

wood from a hardware store, this can be EXTREMELY expensive especially on large bridges,

but its faster and easier to work with, it’s pretty much the same idea as Natural

north shore which can be found before this tutorial.

http://www.bikepark.co.nz/uploads/61479/images/53270/B__P_One_Tree_Hill.JPG


ROCK FEATURES

rocks, the hardest building tools you can use for trail building, with so many ways to

build with them. but remember to build WITH them, because if you try and change them, good luck!

the first think ill talk about is making drops of rocks, to drop off a rock, either find a

ledge, or if your lucky enough a rock that’s shaped like a ramp, if you find a big rock but

it has a small lump that could mess up fast speed jumps use your chisel and hammer, just

line up the chisel and hit it with a hammer, it shouldn't be that hard of a concept to

figure out as people have been doing it for thousands of years.

You also may find that some rock faces are hard to grip on, to add some traction, use the

hammer and chisel technique and do that about every 2 inches, after a while dirt will get

into in and it will be very easy to climb.

the other interesting thing you can do with rocks is rock gardens, which are technical rock

alignments, their not that difficult to make but its hard work, you need to drag around

big boulders pretty much, but remember to make one way down it with flow, any maybe add

something a little more hard for slower speeds.

Using rope to move around rocks is the most effective way I find to move around large

rocks.

[P=http://www.forestry.gov.uk/images/1023061BIG.JPG/$FILE/1023061BIG.JPG size=m align=c]http://www.forestry.gov.uk/images/1023061BIG.JPG/$FILE/1023061BIG.JPG[/P]


LARGE LOG RUNS.

A large log run is pretty much when you ride down a fallen log. their not that hard,

especially if you end up running into a big fallen log when your building, just build a

ramp up the log and then ride along, but its very dangerous just leaving the log plain,

and if its wet and your back tire starts to slip before you know it your smacking your

ribs off a log, so my advice is to cut the top of the log off so theirs a flat part and

for additional grip just hit it with a hammer to make little grip spots.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.shuttlerides.co.nz/hilton_logride.jpg

CONCRETE FEATURES


concrete can actually be used to build, its really strong, but hard to work with, and most

people don't use it, but incase you decide to ill briefly talk about it.

It can actually be used to make rocks if you take the time to design out a mold. No

matter what you do you need a mold for concrete.

the only way I would use concrete would be to secure things like posts in the ground, or

maybe build a drop if I wanted to make my trail look cool, to make a drop I would make a

long mold maybe 2 feet wide and then fill it in with concrete, then after that I would

drag it to the spot were I would put it and just leave it their or partially bury it.




JPTE
-------making roll-ins


a role in can be a great way to get speed fast, I’ve built two in my life and they take

a lot of time.

First off your going to need to dig the holes for the poles, I suggest for every foot your

roll in is dig 5 inches deep. Also use the thickest wood you can find as it will be under

a lot of torque and pressure.

After putting in the poles it’s pretty straight forward. Just build it like a north shore on

the top, and then for the down section, run two large logs down and board them across.


Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://b1kerm4radu.com.sapo.pt/galeriafiles/fotos/street/31park/31park4.jpg


NOSID
--------Nails or Screws?


An ongoing debate this one is, nails or screws the hardest question you need to answer.

So I went to my local hardware store and priced out nails.

I bought 80 3 inch spiral galvanized nails for about 5 dollars.
And 40 3 inch galvanized screws for about 11 dollars.

Nails are way cheaper. But screws definitely hold better. If something is going to be

rocked a lot then screws are the way because they will hold in better. Nails though can be

used for everything else I find.

if your building north shore I recommend only using screws for the posts, and cross posts

as that’s realistically going to be the only thing under pressure, the rest can be held

together by nails.

Another thing to remember if you decide to use screws is drills. you need to remember they

will run out of battery (unless you use one with a cord but then you can't really use that

unless its near your home) and that its not easier that nails, I find that nails are much

easier to use as with a drill imp finding I have to always switch battery packs and even if

I get perfectly matching screws with the drill head it still skips and you have to push

EXTREMELY HARD
.


Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/design/images/dt_nailscrewsbolt.gif


SDTNI
-----------building jumps


making ramps I find actually easy, I haven't really built any massive dirt jumps but the

biggest I’ve went is about 4 feet tall. Hers how I advice building them.


the first thing I tend to do is build the ramp shape out of cinderblocks, they tend to be

heavier then dirt and its easier to work with, then after I put dirt on, I tend to like to

dig in the dirt right after it rains so its nice and moist, but don't go trying to build

out of mud because it just flops all over the place. And never try to build when its bone

dry, it’s just pointless as I find it turns into dust and just blows away.

If you need additional information this guide here should really help you.

http://vpfree.pinkbike.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=107713

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.bmx-zone.com/articlePic.php?id=54

UWMISH
-----------Drainage


if you find that on your trail water is flooding it their is a few things you can do.

the first thing which is probably my favorite as it makes your trail nicer looking as

well as keeps it dry is rocks, it doesn't have to be tricky like a rock garden but the same

idea as interlocking brick on someone’s driveway, just get the biggest rocks you can find

and try to make them as flat as possible, you can even burry them if you like but have the

top exposed so people ride on that instead of ripping up the trail when its wet.

The second way is piping, I’ve heard of a few people using this and it sounds fairly easy

to install. just dig a gutter with a trowel and then put the piping in, remember only to

use half of the piping not the full piping or water won't be able to get into it, its also

a good idea to make your trail at a bit of a slant towards the piping so the water runs

into it. after you have that in place you need to make a reservoir, simply just dig a hole

about 10 feet away from the trail and run the piping into that so it doesn't overflow into

your trail.

if you have the time and haven't really built were the problem is you could dig in the

middle of the trail and make a gutter then put FULL piping in, even with the top, then in

certain spots cut a small bit of the top out and make a gutter, to make a gutter you can

use wood or just put rocks over it and it will drain into the pipe.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.sci.sdsu.edu/SERG/restorationproj/channel_islands/erosion/project_img03.jpg

KKOT
--------keeping people out of your trail

this is another problem you will run into while building a trail. People getting into your

trail and possibly ruining it.

Here is my idea's of how to keep people off trails. Their not the answer but they give you

maybe an idea. The best thing you can do I think about it.

1) If you own that land that’s great, you can threaten to call the police or even call them

for trespassing. Remember to put a trespassing sign at the start of the trail though so

they know.

2) Building a fence about 100 feet long about 20 feet back into your trail might be able

to make them leave.

3) Hunting sign should scare them off unless they don't care about getting shot in the

face.

4) Before your trail build another one but make it horrible, like trees all over the place

and make them just want to turn back and leave.

those are all my idea's but if you look in the trail building section of the forum you will

see a lot of these types of threads most of them with over 100 posts.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.uq.edu.au/parking/signage/NoEntry.jpg


BAMSC
------Maintenance

so you finish your trail, but your trail isn't done yet, if you built it strong and

followed my instructions your trail will probably need minimum maintenance but it still

will need work.

every time it rains you should probably walk your trail before riding, and make sure none

of the soil got worn down and theirs nothing worse then hitting a big jump and then

realizing theirs no dirt on the landing but just pilled up logs.

If you have snowy winters were your trail is in the spring be prepared for a lot of

eminence, spring will be very wet and full of water. Check anything made of wood for

rotten parts and check the strength of the dirt structures.

I find sometimes in the spring I will have to replace all of my rungs on my north shores as

their so wet that their going to rot if they already aren't and because of the water they

have actually started to bend. But if you used treated wood you shouldn't have this

problem, but check for any cracking because water could have gotten into a crack, frozen

and split the wood.

Dirt jumps are the one thing that needs maintenance year round because they tend to be under

a lot of pressure, the best thing to do to insure they won't get week is to water them by

using a watering can which firms up the soil.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://outdoors.mainetoday.com/trailhead/AT%20TM%2006.JPG

DWTK
-----------Dealing with Kids.

If you find that theirs a lot of kids riding your trail do not ever threaten them. If you say you will kill them or beat them up I guarantee you they will tell their parents, and if you end up with a kid with some crazy parents they will try to sue you or call the police on you, its not good when people call the police on you obviously because then you have a criminal record and theirs a good chance they will rip your trail down.

Helping them
Helping them is probably the best way to get them on your side, building a small trail should do it. Most kids just want a few jumps (Don’t make doubles make tables) and don’t build big 10 foot gaps as most kids won’t try anything over a 2 foot gap. Throw in a couple of bridges (don’t build like 10 feet high) because then they won’t try it and it’s a waste. Then once it’s done talk to them or posts a sign saying that you built this trail especially for them and for them not to go on your trail. It would only take about a day of building and the chances of your city tearing your trails down is less now because they could see it as helping the community, and you could even ask for the land.

Scaring them
All though I don’t advise using this method most people do. Pretty much you scare them from coming back to your trail. You could take a paintball gun one day and start firing at them (don’t actually try to hit them though or you could get in some trouble) or you could yell at them. Most kids under the age of 12 will be scared of yelling, especially from a stranger. Yell at them for anything, ruining something, crashing, getting in their way and most likely they won’t come back.

There is a down side to scaring them. If you end up hurting one of them using a physical method they could call the police on you, and if they just get really angry at you prepare to come back the next day with your trail in ruins.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Lair/2053/ScrmKid.GIF


SFZC
--------Safe Fall Zones


Safe fall zones are an important part of trail building as I have now realized. A safe fall zone is places were you can fall pretty much and not get hurt.

To make sure you have a safe fall zones you first need to figure out were you need them. You should put them around every dirt jump, north shore, any landings, and pretty much anything dangerous.

To make a safe fall zone you pretty much need to clear anything that you could hit, this includes tree’s rocks, and other hazardous objects you could hurt your self off of. The best way to find one is to walk on the obstacles you think require a safe fall zone and jump off every single angle of it (unless its too high and you’ll break your legs). If you find a spot were your not too sure you want to jump off because you might hit something you have found something that needs to change.

After clearing any rocks and trees that are in the way the best thing is to do is pile as much dirt as you can (over half a foot would be good) and leave it (don’t pack it down). After a while mosses and grasses will start growing and in about 2 months it will be a very soft spot to land.

Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.imba.com/resources/freeriding/images/15_steps_7.jpg

FCTB
--------Final Note.



I’d like to thank you for reading or using this guide and I hope that it helped you out with your trail building. If you thought that something was missing or should be added feel free to ask via posting below or messaging me.





SOTG
--------Bibliography and Credits.

All text was written by me with the help of my current knowledge.

every picture so far in this guide were borrowed from the sites listed bellow the picture. most of the sites were bike related and could give you some helpful tips so i advice visiting some of them.

thanks everyone who posted after V.1 was written with the good ideas and tips!


WCOTY
-------whats changed

v.1 original guide.
v.2 pictures added 3 more topics added.
v.2 went through again, changed cramped spots, spell-checked again.
v.2 changed the wording and some errors on how to build normal trails.

version 3 will come out when more people request things.

thanks again!

Posted: Nov 22, 2007 at 7:19 Quote
If you end up finding something wrong, or have an idea just post it please, my reasoning for making this guide was to create a place were people could easily access information and if its all wrong then its pointless.

Posted: Nov 22, 2007 at 11:03 Quote
That's a damned good guide.

Posted: Nov 23, 2007 at 17:27 Quote
Very well thought out guide. Impressive for somebody at your age. How many hours of trailbuilding have you logged? Just curious and impressed. When is Volume 2 coming out?

Posted: Nov 23, 2007 at 17:29 Quote
postcanyonloc wrote:
Very well thought out guide. Impressive for somebody at your age. How many hours of trailbuilding have you logged? Just curious and impressed. When is Volume 2 coming out?

well i don't really count how many hours i spend building i like to build more then count:P but i built one trail that took me about one summer, then it got plowed down in the winter so i built another one this year, and volume 2 will hopefully come out once i can collect enough pictures and think about what else to put in the guide.

Posted: Nov 23, 2007 at 18:17 Quote
odin333 wrote:
postcanyonloc wrote:
Very well thought out guide. Impressive for somebody at your age. How many hours of trailbuilding have you logged? Just curious and impressed. When is Volume 2 coming out?

well i don't really count how many hours i spend building i like to build more then count:P but i built one trail that took me about one summer, then it got plowed down in the winter so i built another one this year, and volume 2 will hopefully come out once i can collect enough pictures and think about what else to put in the guide.

Try to estimate the hours total, break it down by all trails. If you ever come to the states (my area) give me a shout, I'd be stoked to ride with you.

Posted: Nov 23, 2007 at 18:31 Quote
Awesome job. Well done, Extra raisin pie for you.

Posted: Nov 23, 2007 at 18:47 Quote
It's a good start.

A few comments off the top of my head:

- Checking out some of IMBAs resources on trail building - they have already done most of the work for you:

http://www.imba.com/resources/trail_building/index.html


- When choosing a location for your trail, you have to consider the landowner. You can't tell people to just look for out of the way, hidden places - if it is private land, you need the landowners permission. Building unwanted guerrilla trails on private property give all bikers a bad name and jeopardize access for everyone.

- Your list of tools is missing the the two trail building essentials - the Pulaski and the MacLeod. Most people aren't going to have these in the garden shed, but if you log a lot of time breaking trails, these are tools you want.

Posted: Nov 25, 2007 at 10:29 Quote
okay thanks ill look at that.

Posted: Nov 26, 2007 at 17:06 Quote
this guide is so cool i love it i have another sugestion to get kids away build on a iland or say its security guarded or keep the shit away

Posted: Nov 26, 2007 at 17:18 Quote
another good tool for trailbuilding is a mcleod. its like haly rake, half pick axe. its weird, but works wonders.

Posted: Nov 26, 2007 at 18:11 Quote
alright thanks, im going to expand on it shortly, and ill include everything, if you think i should add something just say it because most likely ill include it.

Posted: Nov 28, 2007 at 15:30 Quote
Odin333's trail building guide version.2 is now posted!
(not entirely done still some tweaking to do)

Posted: Nov 30, 2007 at 17:06 Quote
if anyone does find any errors or problems. or just wants to request something feel free to ask!

Posted: Nov 30, 2007 at 17:18 Quote
how much would it cost to get a pice of land?

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