PIKES...

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flag sirslouchalot
Posted: Feb 28, 2013 at 10:53 Quote
trunkmonkey wrote:
So just all the basics. I know I'm going to sound like a butch but they're all just so expensive


How old are you? get a part time job, and within the first 2 reasonable paychecks you could get a new argyle or a nice used 36.
flag trunkmonkey
Posted: Feb 28, 2013 at 11:06 Quote
I have a part time job. But all my money goes to paying for school and my vehicle
flag sirslouchalot
Posted: Feb 28, 2013 at 11:18 Quote
trunkmonkey wrote:
I have a part time job. But all my money goes to paying for school and my vehicle

dunno what to tell ya man, become a male prostitute?

either way if you buy this pike your going to not have a face anymore, and your gonna have replace it soon anyway

therefor its just a big waste of money, do shit right the first time dude
flag trunkmonkey
Posted: Feb 28, 2013 at 11:18 Quote
I understand. Thanks for the advice.
flag lexx
Posted: Feb 28, 2013 at 16:01 Quote
just find an Argyle 318 08 or newer. Anything older than 08 is slightly weaker and heavier.

If you ride hard..... like land flat, case and or land sideways on spins I wouldn't recommended anything with 32mm stanchions.
flag meridebikes
Posted: Aug 9, 2013 at 9:45 Quote
sorry to bump an older-ish thread , but im realy chasing a bit of help regarding my pikes , they are Pike 454 U-turn Air.

what is the maximum pressure i can run in them safely?

do i have to run air in the negative spring chamber ? ( i found that when i put in 170psi + chamber , they are solid as , but when i add the equal psi in the negative chamber they become very plush , what does the negative chamber actually do?)

will riding park/dirt with the compression on full lock damage the fork? same goes for floodgate?

Fork is lowered (75mm-110mm) , will be used for dirt/park/street style riding etc.

cheers!
flag James-Carey
Posted: Aug 9, 2013 at 11:13 Quote
It basically causes an opposing force to the positive chamber. I used to know about what you could run in it ect but don't any more. You can run full lock with a high set floodgate as ultimately it has a blowout. But if you run a rock front end just to rigid, and if you go rigid get a bmx. Run them firm and learn to use the sus
flag cowieuk
Posted: Aug 9, 2013 at 15:01 Quote
meridebikes wrote:
sorry to bump an older-ish thread , but im realy chasing a bit of help regarding my pikes , they are Pike 454 U-turn Air.

what is the maximum pressure i can run in them safely?

do i have to run air in the negative spring chamber ? ( i found that when i put in 170psi + chamber , they are solid as , but when i add the equal psi in the negative chamber they become very plush , what does the negative chamber actually do?)

will riding park/dirt with the compression on full lock damage the fork? same goes for floodgate?

Fork is lowered (75mm-110mm) , will be used for dirt/park/street style riding etc.

cheers!

The air chambers are designed to both be used together, I ran mine with positive chamber slightly higher than the negative chamber. A larger difference between the chambers (positive higher) sets the fork up firmer, smaller difference makes the fork better for small bumps (as it seems you've found out). As for the lockout, I ran mine locked out by accident for the 1st section of the Fort William WC cup track. No damage, except my wrists.
flag bikerboywill
Posted: Aug 10, 2013 at 3:57 Quote
Run it with as little as possible in the negative air chamber say 10psi. And then don't use lockout other wise the damper will eventually break
flag meridebikes
Posted: Aug 10, 2013 at 4:45 Quote
cheers guys , much appreciated! I'm Running 170psi + / 50psi-
rode it today on about 3/4 compression with floodgate about half on... was probably the best combination I found i ran

what i found was it wasnt too active in the initial travel ( e.g when you're pedalling hard or small bumps in the bowl or run up to trails)but still absorbed sharp small hits, but i still got about 60-70% travel when compressing hard (going up a quarter pipe/hitting an upramp etc)... dont think I bottomed out at all today , but from what I felt it would reach full travel if i needed it.

seemed to be pretty awesome , not too active initial travel , but still active when needed.

running it with no compression and no floodgate was also quite fine , but i prefer the feel of the compression on as it kind of has a initial step then a big hit step

just my 2 cents

edit : this was at 100mm of travel , not that that makes a difference haha
flag bikerboywill
Posted: Aug 10, 2013 at 16:56 Quote
Less negative air pressure and less compression. Should be the same but save the damper
flag manachim
Posted: Aug 11, 2013 at 0:33 Quote
Its kinda interesting, are you suggesting that negative chamber should be equal or a little bit lower than positive chamber.
Mine is 454 DA 140mm
I am currently use 100+ / 80-
I am mostly use for xc/am.

I put compression in lowest and flood gate kinda middle.

I like this set up, but after read above explanation, will it better to put equal pressure in both negative and positive then crank the compression a little bit??
flag Jobh
Posted: May 27, 2015 at 13:45 Quote
Hi guys,

Got a question that isn't really worth opening a new thread for, so I figured I'd just post it here Smile I'm in the market for a new fork to replace the Manitou Tower Pro 120mm currently in my 2Souls Quarterhorse. I want a fork that is sturdier and has more travel so it matches my riding style a bit better. I've decided I want a Pike, but I now see that the 2016 are already available...

What is the difference between the 2015 and the 2016 Pike (other than the decals)? Is it worth spending an extra 170 euro's to get the 2016 version? I already find 679 euro's a crazy amount of money, let alone 849 euro's, but if the the new one is that much better than the 'old' one..... well, then I might think about it. What are the chances of the price (2015 version) dropping when the 2016 comes out?

Cheers!Salute
flag bikerboywill
Posted: May 27, 2015 at 14:32 Quote
I'm pretty sure it's just different decals
flag dukeynz
Posted: Dec 1, 2015 at 19:28 Quote
OK, so a little bit of afternoon research today - has anyone retuned the high speed (HS) shim stack in the Charger damper on their Pike?

I notice the latest release of the Pike service manual (revision D on 2015) shows how to retune the HS rebound.

However the Pike service manual doesn't have anything about reshimming the HS compression (only HS rebound).

I looked at the Boxxer service manual (Charger Damper) also and surprise they show how to do both the HS rebound and HS compression.

A comparison of the HS rebound shim stack on both Charger dampers on the Pike and Boxxer show them to be identical.

Now the point here,

1. Has any one seen this before?
2. Is the HS compression stack on the Pike the same as that on the Boxxer, and
2, Has any one played with the HS compression stack on their Pike?

I ask as my Pike feels really wooden on fast chundery runs and my LS compression dial is all the way off (all the way counter clockwise), thus I am thinking I may go to a lower (ie softer) HS shim stack for compression.

The service manual recommends if you are within 2 clicks full open or 2 clicks full closed on either the low speed compression or low speed rebound (on either fork), then to move down (if within 2 clicks from full open) or up (if within 2 clicks full closed) on the tune on the respective HS circuit.

The only difference it seems to move to the soft HS compression tune (from the stock medium) is to move one shim up the order to reduce its effect, thus making the stack softer.

Thoughts?

 


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