That's Eather weld under cut or what it more looks like somebody slipped with a grinder, although I'd be surprised if a grinder ever gets used on bike frames. If your ride your bike hard almost certain it will crack there.
Goes without saying for all 2010/11 glories doesn't it?
That's Eather weld under cut or what it more looks like somebody slipped with a grinder, although I'd be surprised if a grinder ever gets used on bike frames. If your ride your bike hard almost certain it will crack there.
Goes without saying for all 2010/11 glories doesn't it?
I Dout they will all cack if ridden hard but that one has a obvious weld fault
That's Eather weld under cut or what it more looks like somebody slipped with a grinder, although I'd be surprised if a grinder ever gets used on bike frames. If your ride your bike hard almost certain it will crack there.
Goes without saying for all 2010/11 glories doesn't it?
My 2012 looks slightly different compared to the 2010-2011. The top seems to flare more at the seat tube and the weld is considerably beefier.
It only took them 2 or 3 years to figure this one out! Increased surface area and weld beefyness should hopefully resolve this issue!
Although I have heard that the problem is the 'kink' in the top tube flexing and putting the weld under additional pressure... But one of the key supporters of this theory has no engineering qualifications!
My 2012 looks slightly different compared to the 2010-2011. The top seems to flare more at the seat tube and the weld is considerably beefier.
It only took them 2 or 3 years to figure this one out! Increased surface area and weld beefyness should hopefully resolve this issue!
Although I have heard that the problem is the 'kink' in the top tube flexing and putting the weld under additional pressure... But one of the key supporters of this theory has no engineering qualifications!
if that was the case then it would probably crack on the top instead of the bottom.
My 2012 looks slightly different compared to the 2010-2011. The top seems to flare more at the seat tube and the weld is considerably beefier.
It only took them 2 or 3 years to figure this one out! Increased surface area and weld beefyness should hopefully resolve this issue!
Although I have heard that the problem is the 'kink' in the top tube flexing and putting the weld under additional pressure... But one of the key supporters of this theory has no engineering qualifications!
if that was the case then it would probably crack on the top instead of the bottom.
does anyone know if it breaks even the 2011 model dark gray?