Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]

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Mechanics Quick Question Thread [Ask Questions Here]
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flag j-ron46
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 3:43 Quote
iffy wrote:
make sure there is enough fluid in the damper, pump it a few times to get the air out of it and check the level.

Sorry for my complete ignorance to the inner workings of the fork, the damper is the right fork leg right?

Pump it with the lowers off? And how do I check the level?

Thanks
flag iffy
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 3:47 Quote
jeneson46 wrote:
iffy wrote:
make sure there is enough fluid in the damper, pump it a few times to get the air out of it and check the level.

Sorry for my complete ignorance to the inner workings of the fork, the damper is the right fork leg right?

yes, the side with the adjustment for rebound and lockout

Pump it with the lowers off? And how do I check the level?

depends on the model of the fork

Thanks

have a look here for the model you are working on and make sure you have not missed sometning out.
flag j-ron46
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 4:05 Quote
have a look here for the model you are working on and make sure you have not missed sometning out.[/Quote]

Thanks for that, ill have a go at the weekend.

Still seems strange, all i did was whip the lowers off and replace the seals. I turned the lockout before putting the lowers back on but thats all i did with the uppers.

The lockout and rebound worked before the service Confused
flag JohnyBoy
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 4:47 Quote
What model and year?

jeneson46 wrote:
Hi Guys,

I performed a fluid and seal service on my girlfriends fox float forks yesterday, and now the rebound adjustment and lockout don't work.

All the work was done on the lowers and I hardly touched the internals poking out the end of the fork, so I am a bit confused really.

Any ideas what I have done and how I can solve the issue?

Any help would be great,

Thank
flag j-ron46
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 5:27 Quote
JohnyBoy wrote:
What model and year?

jeneson46 wrote:
Hi Guys,

I performed a fluid and seal service on my girlfriends fox float forks yesterday, and now the rebound adjustment and lockout don't work.

All the work was done on the lowers and I hardly touched the internals poking out the end of the fork, so I am a bit confused really.

Any ideas what I have done and how I can solve the issue?

Any help would be great,

Thank

Fox float RL 120mm 2007
flag madmax650
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 8:43 Quote
It's open bath. If it flat out does not lock out/ rebound correctly, then add oil til it does. You can add oil from the top cap. Check the fox tech website too lots of good info. Also make sure you're using the correct weight oil for that fork. I think it's 5 wt.
flag JohnyBoy
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 11:10 Quote
The right advice, just make sure you can still get full travel, ie you have not added too much oil.
flag DillonThomson24
O+
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 11:11 Quote
Would it be possible to switch the damping cartridge from a 26" Marzocchi 55 CR for with the cartridge from a Marzocchi 350 R 27.5"
flag jackstack
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 12:21 Quote
A road bike question, but a bike question none the less.

I have now decided that I love my hybrid bike too much and i am going to keep it but the thing is I want a cyclecross style bike i the sense that it will have mechanical disc brakes.

So the Dilemma I have is. Is it possible for me to tension the front shifter such that its default position is on the middle cog, so i can get away with using 2 x 8 road shifters.

a small side note do you have any suggestions for mechanical disc brakes. i was going to go for Avid BB5 with 8" rotors
flag sheerspeed
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 12:26 Quote
Hey
Will a cassette hub fit on track bike dropouts?
I dont mind invresting in the conversion kit for the right wheel.
Buying a Dolan Pre Cursa. And there is ab irresistible deal on a very very nice wheelset. But the rear has been trued and set up already with a cassette hub.
Thanks
flag mallorcadave
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 12:32 Quote
Nope track frames are 120mm road 130mm and std mtb 135mm
You could spring the rear triangle but not ideal
flag KooKilla
O+
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 12:35 Quote
I am in the process of setting up my drive train on my 2011 Remedy 9.9 and I got it all tuned up in my stand. Then I got on my bike, and noticed that as I am sitting on it with proper sag, the derailleur cable loses a lot of tension and won't even move if I shift up from the smallest cog. The derailleur cable is routed underneath the top tube, through the cable stops, and goes over the linkage to the top of the rear triangle. How would I go about compensating for this? I tried sitting on my bike and then pulling the cable tight through the clamp on the derailleur, but then when I throw it on the stand it is under so much tension that it prevents me from shifting into the highest gear (smallest cog).
flag gabriel-mission9
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 12:40 Quote
jackstack wrote:
A road bike question, but a bike question none the less.

I have now decided that I love my hybrid bike too much and i am going to keep it but the thing is I want a cyclecross style bike i the sense that it will have mechanical disc brakes.

So the Dilemma I have is. Is it possible for me to tension the front shifter such that its default position is on the middle cog, so i can get away with using 2 x 8 road shifters.

a small side note do you have any suggestions for mechanical disc brakes. i was going to go for Avid BB5 with 8" rotors

Your front mech will have a high and low stop screw. The low stop screw should be long enough to keep the mech from dropping the chain onto the smallest ring. I not fully up to speed on road components, but worry that 2speed front mechs may require a different cable pull than 3 speed, which could make 2 speed shifters incompatible with your current front mech. I dont believe this to be the case, but it may be worth checking with someone better informed.

As for mechanical discs, I hear the TRP Spyre is a fantastic brake. Its main advantage is that it actuates both pads at once, rather than using one moving pad to bend the disc and push it against a static pad. This should give better braking performance, less noise and improve pad wear rates.

8" rotors are massive overkill for a 38c tyre. 6" rotors should be plenty and are less prone to bending.
flag KooKilla
O+
Posted: Jan 27, 2015 at 12:49 Quote
thisguyalex wrote:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2011/archive/trek/remedy99/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2011/archive/trek/remedy99

maybe this pic will help?
If this is what you are referring to, then I see what I did wrong. I went straight over the linkage instead of wrapping it around the seat tube. That's pretty irritating that I didn't think of that before because I think my cable may be too short now... Unsecure image, only https images allowed: http://www.mountainflyermagazine.com/img/upimages/Gear/BIKES/Bikes_2011/Remedy/remedy_detail1.jpg

 


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