2009 giant stp 0 a good buy for $500?

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2009 giant stp 0 a good buy for $500?
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flag Josegotskills
Posted: Feb 22, 2016 at 12:56 Quote
I recently bought a 2009 giant stp 0 for $500 with free shipping(I don't have the bike yet because it is being shipped). It look in Ok condition. I was just wondering if that price is fair price.
flag cmc4130
Posted: Feb 23, 2016 at 6:59 Quote
Josegotskills wrote:
I recently bought a 2009 giant stp 0 for $500 with free shipping(I don't have the bike yet because it is being shipped). It look in Ok condition. I was just wondering if that price is fair price.

Yes, it is. Assuming you don't have to replace anything major right away (fork or crankset).
flag Metro-Gnome
Posted: Feb 23, 2016 at 17:31 Quote
I sold that exact same bike 3 years ago to someone I've known my whole life for $350. So I'd say that's a great price, because even then, I felt like I ripped myself off. I still regret it to this day. That thing was dialed. Stroker brakes and a DJ1 with half decent rims. Super strong bike, great welds, everything.

The only thing I didn't like about it was the geo. Stp geo is amazing for trails/commutes/versatility, but it wasn't one of my favourite frames ever.

I'd swap the frame after 1 year if the parts are holding up in that time. Swap the bar, too. I don't/can't trust used bars, period. You never know how old and stressed they might be.
flag Josegotskills
Posted: Feb 23, 2016 at 20:48 Quote
cmc4130 wrote:
Josegotskills wrote:
I recently bought a 2009 giant stp 0 for $500 with free shipping(I don't have the bike yet because it is being shipped). It look in Ok condition. I was just wondering if that price is fair price.

Yes, it is. Assuming you don't have to replace anything major right away (fork or crankset).
Seller said fork has no scratches on the fork stanchions. Looked at the pictures and it looks like it has no scratches and cranks look fine. Could there be a possibility that there is something wrong with it. What are signs that the fork is in bad condition. I appreciate your input
flag Josegotskills
Posted: Feb 23, 2016 at 20:50 Quote
Metro-Gnome wrote:
I sold that exact same bike 3 years ago to someone I've known my whole life for $350. So I'd say that's a great price, because even then, I felt like I ripped myself off. I still regret it to this day. That thing was dialed. Stroker brakes and a DJ1 with half decent rims. Super strong bike, great welds, everything.

The only thing I didn't like about it was the geo. Stp geo is amazing for trails/commutes/versatility, but it wasn't one of my favourite frames ever.

I'd swap the frame after 1 year if the parts are holding up in that time. Swap the bar, too. I don't/can't trust used bars, period. You never know how old and stressed they might be.
$350 damm That is a steal. It sucks that you sold it for that low. The bars are deity so I'm guessing there pretty good. Thanks for the input greatly appreciated.
flag Metro-Gnome
Posted: Feb 24, 2016 at 22:20 Quote
Ok maybe I would trust those bars. Over the years I've had about 4 different Deity bars (CZ 38, Topsoil, 2014, D30) and all of them were incredibly strong. It's like superlight Adamantium or something. I still have and abuse the first one I ever bought (2014) and it's still crack free.

Deity is running the handlebar scene right now. I love Renthal, Rf, Chromag and NS but I actually feel a difference personally when I use those bars. Don't get it confused, It isn't a huge difference, or even a big difference, but they do feel pretty damn good. I actually mainly run Renthal bars now because I like the combination of weight, geo, and slight flexyness but that's preference.

I know I didn't need 3 paragraphs to say this, but in the end, I can't wholeheartedly recommend used bars of any kind. Snap your used frame, rear wheel, or pedals and you might make it out unscathed. Snap your fork steerer, bar, or hell- even your chain, and you could break somehing serious. Just my experience.
flag Josegotskills
Posted: Mar 2, 2016 at 14:51 Quote
The bike came in today but the rear wheel has a loose spoke and the spoke nipple is almost in the rim. Also the front hub dust caps are loose are they supposed to be like that. Wheels are not true. Should I take it to the bike shop. Also should I make the seller pay because he said everything works great and I paid $500 fort it.
flag cmc4130
Posted: Mar 2, 2016 at 18:11 Quote
Josegotskills wrote:
The bike came in today but the rear wheel has a loose spoke and the spoke nipple is almost in the rim. Also the front hub dust caps are loose are they supposed to be like that. Wheels are not true. Should I take it to the bike shop. Also should I make the seller pay because he said everything works great and I paid $500 fort it.

I don't have the bike in front of me. And I don't know what conversations you two had.

But if you're buying a used bike, you should expect to do some normal maintenance or tune-up on it. Truing a wheel and tightening spokes is NORMAL maintenance.

If the wheel is severely bent and not true-able, then that's a different story.

(That said, if it was me, personally, selling a bike, I would be very clear about the exact condition of the bike. I would say "wheels need to be trued" or I would true them myself. The last bike I sold, I actually e-mailed a short video clip of the wheels spinning to prove they were true.). Still, that doesn't necessarily mean you were ripped off.
flag Josegotskills
Posted: Mar 2, 2016 at 18:31 Quote
cmc4130 wrote:
Josegotskills wrote:
The bike came in today but the rear wheel has a loose spoke and the spoke nipple is almost in the rim. Also the front hub dust caps are loose are they supposed to be like that. Wheels are not true. Should I take it to the bike shop. Also should I make the seller pay because he said everything works great and I paid $500 fort it.

I don't have the bike in front of me. And I don't know what conversations you two had.

But if you're buying a used bike, you should expect to do some normal maintenance or tune-up on it. Truing a wheel and tightening spokes is NORMAL maintenance.

If the wheel is severely bent and not true-able, then that's a different story.

(That said, if it was me, personally, selling a bike, I would be very clear about the exact condition of the bike. I would say "wheels need to be trued" or I would true them myself. The last bike I sold, I actually e-mailed a short video clip of the wheels spinning to prove they were true.). Still, that doesn't necessarily mean you were ripped off.
Thanks . how about the 20mm hub dust caps being loose is that normal. Also I did ask him if the rims were true
flag cmc4130
Posted: Mar 2, 2016 at 18:58 Quote
Josegotskills wrote:
Thanks . how about the 20mm hub dust caps being loose is that normal. Also I did ask him if they were true

I don't understand what you mean by that. I'd have to see the bike in person.

At least post some pics!
flag Josegotskills
Posted: Mar 2, 2016 at 19:15 Quote
cmc4130 wrote:
Josegotskills wrote:
Thanks . how about the 20mm hub dust caps being loose is that normal. Also I did ask him if they were true

I don't understand what you mean by that. I'd have to see the bike in person.

At least post some pics!

http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/loose-front-thru-axle-hub-how-tighten-857951.html
It's those black caps sticking out on both sides
flag Metro-Gnome
Posted: Mar 2, 2016 at 21:58 Quote
Generally speaking, 20mm thru axles aren't 'tight'. They flop around a little if you take the wheel off. Try re-installing the wheel and put your belly on the handlebar to weight the front of the bike, and wobble the front wheel from side-to-side while looking down at it. If it wobbles, you have a hub problem. You probably don't though. I have been riding 20mm thru axles for over 10 years and have never had a serious problem with one.

As for your other problem, spokes go loose. If you intend on riding this thing in any serious way (for a dj bike) you will need to true the wheels either way. Just get a multi tool with a spoke wrench attached, and squeeze all the nearly parallel spokes to see which ones are loose (plucking them with a heavy guitar pick works really well too, especially if you have a chromatic guitar tuner handy-ps, downlaodable tuner apps on pretty much any phone these days)

I would NEVER sell a bike that needs simple maintenance to an unknowing buyer, but from my experience, most used bikes have 'silly issues' that the seller just basically didn't want to deal with. In most cases, I tell the buyer 'final sale, but if you contact me with issues afterwards I'll make an effort to resolve whatever mechanical problems arise'. It's the honorable 'Ned Stark' thing to do. If you live in Ontario and want to bring it by I can fix most of your problems in under 15 minutes. I have looots of spokes and loctite, nipples, truing stand, etc. Not an invitation, but I think most people spend 50 bucks at the shop on stuff I do almost daily to all of my bikes.

Edit- also I should say on behalf of the seller...

He may very well have shipped the wheels in near perfect condition and they got loose being thrown around and stacked with other boxes in transport. Did the shipping box say 'bike' or 'fragile'? If not, they likely piled other boxes on tip of it, and either way spoke can go loose just from being moved around, shaken for hours crammed in a box with the frame and fork.

I'm saying this because I run a bike dept, among 6 other depts (that sells low-priced budget bikes) in a place where I receive and sell thousands of bikes a year (that aren't high end AT ALL, but just to compare) and almost half of the wheels are ridiculously tacoed out of the box. I'm REALLY good at truing wheels because of this being such a common issue in my store. I can spin a wheel one rotation, squeeze all the spokes, and true it in 3 minutes. I know from only owning/buying higher-end bikes that they usually aren't as wobbly/don't have issues when new, but used... anything could've happened.
flag Josegotskills
Posted: Mar 3, 2016 at 20:30 Quote
Metro-Gnome wrote:
Generally speaking, 20mm thru axles aren't 'tight'. They flop around a little if you take the wheel off. Try re-installing the wheel and put your belly on the handlebar to weight the front of the bike, and wobble the front wheel from side-to-side while looking down at it. If it wobbles, you have a hub problem. You probably don't though. I have been riding 20mm thru axles for over 10 years and have never had a serious problem with one.

As for your other problem, spokes go loose. If you intend on riding this thing in any serious way (for a dj bike) you will need to true the wheels either way. Just get a multi tool with a spoke wrench attached, and squeeze all the nearly parallel spokes to see which ones are loose (plucking them with a heavy guitar pick works really well too, especially if you have a chromatic guitar tuner handy-ps, downlaodable tuner apps on pretty much any phone these days)

I would NEVER sell a bike that needs simple maintenance to an unknowing buyer, but from my experience, most used bikes have 'silly issues' that the seller just basically didn't want to deal with. In most cases, I tell the buyer 'final sale, but if you contact me with issues afterwards I'll make an effort to resolve whatever mechanical problems arise'. It's the honorable 'Ned Stark' thing to do. If you live in Ontario and want to bring it by I can fix most of your problems in under 15 minutes. I have looots of spokes and loctite, nipples, truing stand, etc. Not an invitation, but I think most people spend 50 bucks at the shop on stuff I do almost daily to all of my bikes.

Edit- also I should say on behalf of the seller...

He may very well have shipped the wheels in near perfect condition and they got loose being thrown around and stacked with other boxes in transport. Did the shipping box say 'bike' or 'fragile'? If not, they likely piled other boxes on tip of it, and either way spoke can go loose just from being moved around, shaken for hours crammed in a box with the frame and fork.

I'm saying this because I run a bike dept, among 6 other depts (that sells low-priced budget bikes) in a place where I receive and sell thousands of bikes a year (that aren't high end AT ALL, but just to compare) and almost half of the wheels are ridiculously tacoed out of the box. I'm REALLY good at truing wheels because of this being such a common issue in my store. I can spin a wheel one rotation, squeeze all the spokes, and true it in 3 minutes. I know from only owning/buying higher-end bikes that they usually aren't as wobbly/don't have issues when new, but used... anything could've happened.

Thanks I appreciate your info. Also dust caps(idk if I said it right) are really loose. Is that normal
flag Josegotskills
Posted: Mar 3, 2016 at 20:39 Quote
Also theres barely any clicking sound on the freehub when the wheel is spinning freely. Is this a problem
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