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Nutcracker rdimporters's article
May 21, 2015 at 20:06
May 21, 2015
Video: Introducing Red Dirt Importers
I had no trouble ordering direct from them either, but if you take the price in euros add shipping and then add GST and import duty the couple of bikes I just compared come out within about $10 of the asking price in AUD. Difference is you bought it locally and getting warranty issues sorted will probably be easier than dealing with Andorra. I think you could probably spare the extra $10 to support a local importer and get local warranty.
Mar 1, 2015 at 19:16
Mar 1, 2015
Nutcracker mikekazimer's article
Feb 4, 2015 at 19:16
Feb 4, 2015
Spotted: Prototype Maxxis Minion Semi-Slick Tire
Try the Ardent Race? I hated the Ardent on the rear, it just always felt like the grip was shit, it didn't corner, and it didn't stop, and it wasn't particularly fast. The Race version in 3C grips better and rolls faster, not the sort of cornering grip you get from a HR2 or a Minion. But then Jared Graves smoked everyone at Buller on the weekend with an Ikon on the rear, so...
Nutcracker pinkbikeaudience's article
Jul 29, 2014 at 21:24
Jul 29, 2014
Ask Pinkbike - Out of Control Rear Derailleur, Flat-Pedal Rider Switching to Clips, and a 24-Inch Wheel Question
@Mike Levy, I would have said that the shifting problem sounds like the shifter wasn't at the end of range when the cable was installed. Assuming your limit screws are set properly, if you don't upshift all the way before clamping the cable then you'll effectively have only 8 (10 positions = 9 shifts) downshifts available and you'll have one cog left that you can't shift to. Going in the other direction you'll get back to the other end of the cassette and still have one upshift left on the shifter, but no more cogs and a mech that has hit it's limit screw. Then as he noted, he'll need to double shift to get back out of that gear. Undo the cable, make sure you shift all the way to the limit of the shifter and then re-clamp the cable, it should be all good. This is a variation of the same basic principals that mean you can use a 3 position front shifter to operate a double chainring. I hope my opinion conveyed the requisite impression of being qualified to comment.
Nutcracker mikelevy's article
May 19, 2014 at 20:12
May 19, 2014
Cane Creek's New DBinline Shock - First Ride
Thema, how do you go accessing the air valve on the bottom of the piggy back. It looks like it would be sitting really close to the rocker assembly? I've often looked at my Meta 55 and thought that surely there are some piggy back shocks that would fit. That said, a DHX air would appear to be more $$ and less adjustment/tunability than the CS Inline, assuming that it is actually possible to find one for the stated price.
Nutcracker mikelevy's article
Apr 24, 2014 at 21:39
Apr 24, 2014
Tracy Moseley's Remedy 29 - Enduro World Series, Round 1
Pretty sure last year Graves ran a Leonardi adapter on his shimano cassette.
Nutcracker mikelevy's article
Apr 24, 2014 at 18:55
Apr 24, 2014
Tracy Moseley's Remedy 29 - Enduro World Series, Round 1
I'm running a 32t WT ring but have left the 24t granny on as well. As its a 1x9 setup there's no clutch and the granny ring generally catches any lost chains. I also refer to it as the bonk breaker, yes I can grind up most things with the 32/34 but it fatigues you pretty quick. Its useful to be able to manually bail to a friendlier gear if sufficiently desperate. I've just recently installed an old blackspire duallie roller guide upside down to help with chain retention. It only just touches the chain in the last couple of climbing gears. The rest of the time it sits just above the chain and prevents it from bouncing too much. Haven't dropped the chain since and as its not a box guide I can still manually shift to the granny. Would love a clutch and 40 or 42 teeth, but this setup didn't cost me anything beyond the WT ring.
Nutcracker redbullbike's article
Apr 23, 2014 at 20:27
Apr 23, 2014
Course Preview: UCI World Cup Round 2, Cairns
Rocky would tick all the logistics boxes etc. to be able to host a WC event as Mt Archer is basically in town. But Capricornia isn't exactly a tourist destination unless you're coming in from the coal fields, and the council/community certainly couldn't be described as open minded or progressive. At least not when I lived there.
Nutcracker robertbbr's article
Apr 6, 2014 at 3:54
Apr 6, 2014
650B Think Tank
650b is the most successful marketing scare campaign in the history of forever. Basically a few companies started to dabble with the idea of 650b, then Giant announced that it was going to be 650b or nothing from now on and the entire industry shat itself that they were going to be left behind. Suddenly we’re told we should all sell our 26" bikes and buy a new 650b just to shave a few seconds. Who are we going to sell our now worthless, 3% slower 26" bikes to? After all, who would ever want to ride one of those again? Why aren't people buying 26" bikes this season, they're too scared to. How can there be not enough sales of the SB66 to justify Yeti making them, yet this season everywhere you look companies big and small now have fat bikes in their range? Fat bikes ffs, how niche can you get. I can now buy a carbon fibre fat bike but not the bike that took Jared Graves to 2ND in the EWS, I guess it just was #notenduroenough anymore. This is F'ing ridiculous. So few people come close to realising the full capabilities of the bike they already ride. You want to carry speed and roll faster? Learn to corner properly and then start to pedal like a demon between those corners, maybe even try manually occasionally or floating through rough sections, if you're not already doing those you don't need a 'faster' bike yet. Did I mention this is F'ing ridiculous?
Nutcracker robertbbr's article
Apr 6, 2014 at 3:54
Apr 6, 2014
650B Think Tank
Dear MTB manufacturers, please find below a short list of options for making your 26” bikes roll faster and feel more stable, these options will not cost you a fortune in re-tooling costs and might even make your bikes seem more awesome to prospective purchasers: 1. Don’t put a crap OEM spec fork on your bikes, I cannot stress this point enough. The fork maketh the bike, crap fork = crap handling bike. 2. Don’t put crap, heavy OEM wheels with rubbish hubs on your bikes. It’s a fairly well understood fact that wheels are about as important as it gets in terms of a performance upgrade. This is principally because the wheels your bikes come with are crap. 3. Don’t put crap OEM versions of OK tires on your bikes. Pick a properly good all-round tire and then use the same ones hanging on the wall in my LBS - not the paper thin, wirebead version. And ship them tubeless with a set of tubes thrown in for those who are so inclined. 4. If your bikes have crappy geometry and don't feel stable at speed, just fix it.
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