Wheelbuilding service

I am a wheelbuilder selling complete DT Swiss MTB wheelsets but can also build using your components. Includes tubeless setup (tape and valves) if your rim is tubeless ready/compatible. Used components should be in good condition and as clear as possible of dirt, grease, old sealant, etc. For best results I recommend brand new components.

METHOD
Lacing is done according to the Shimano method. My tensiometers are calibrated on my own custom-made calibration jig. Target tension is 5% below manufacturer's max rating (e.g. a 120 kg-f rated rim would be built to 115 kg-f), with a variance per side of 2% or less (e.g. at a 115 kg-f target, acceptable range is 114 to 116 kg-f). I get as close as possible to radial and lateral runouts of 0.2 mm or less, but uniformity of spoke tension takes precedence over perfect true for my disc brake wheel builds. Tubeless taping is done in two passes with the overlap fully covering the spoke holes. This is the method recommended by Spank for their "Oohbah'' reverse well design and I find it to be excellent for conventional rim profiles too. I install a tube and tire, inflate to 45psi, and leave it for a few hours to fully seal the tape edges and compress out any bubbles. Finally, I remove the tire and tube, install the tubeless valve, and perform a last check on the truing stand.

*BRASS VS. ALUMINUM NIPPLES
This wheel that I was recently tasked to repair illustrates why I don't use aluminum nipples in my builds: https://youtu.be/0mH5JNjxYE0