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11-36 10 Speed rear - 3xT up front?

PB Forum :: All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country
11-36 10 Speed rear - 3xT up front?
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Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 14:58 Quote
Hey guys,

I am eyeing up the 2017 Trek Remedy 7 as it's a great price and I am wanting to move from DH to Enduro riding (currently have a 2015 Kona Operator).

I've noticed that the Remedy has 11-36 in the rear and 36/22 drive train in the front. Since I am not a fan of front derailleurs, I was thinking of getting rid of the two gears up front and converting it to single ring in the front. I'm just not too sure what chainring size I should get? I am trying to decide between a 32T or 34T up front or even a 30T maybe.

How much difference would I notice between the 30, 32, 34T?

My fitness level is pretty good and can handle a bit more resistance for my legs lol

O+ FL
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 15:01 Quote
i assume you meant you are going single ring up front, not single speed. get a new cassette with 11-42 range or so (or do an expander cog) 30 or 32 up front will get you up anything that can be biked up

Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 15:27 Quote
adrennan wrote:
i assume you meant you are going single ring up front, not single speed. get a new cassette with 11-42 range or so (or do an expander cog) 30 or 32 up front will get you up anything that can be biked up

Ah, yes. Sorry - Single ring up front.

Lets say getting a 11-42 wasn't an option (money wise), what sized ring up front would be better?
or,
Can I purchase a single 42T cog and replace it with the 36T cog in the rear?

O+ FL
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 15:38 Quote
I run 11-36 10 speed with a 32t ring up front. I haven't needed a 42t cog.

O+
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 15:39 Quote
You can get a single 42t rear cog. for a similar price you can also buy a 11-42 tooth rear cassette from Sunrace.

Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 15:39 Quote
RMSlayer50 wrote:
I run 11-36 10 speed with a 32t ring up front. I haven't needed a 42t cog.

No issues with climbing hills?

O+ FL
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 15:39 Quote
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/42-tooth-sprocket

this is what you would need plus the rad cage to make the derailleur pulleys clear the bigger cog. 1x10 "hacked" drivetrains can work great. you could just stick with the 11-36 spread. I would personally rock a 30 tooth with that but I am all for the granny gear for the climbs here in Colorado. gearing is definitely terrain dependent to some extent.

O+ FL
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 17:07 Quote
Tall7kiwi wrote:
RMSlayer50 wrote:
I run 11-36 10 speed with a 32t ring up front. I haven't needed a 42t cog.

No issues with climbing hills?

Not in my area!

Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 17:09 Quote
RMSlayer50 wrote:
Tall7kiwi wrote:
RMSlayer50 wrote:
I run 11-36 10 speed with a 32t ring up front. I haven't needed a 42t cog.

No issues with climbing hills?

Not in my area!

Hmm. Okay! I think I'll go for the 32T. Have you bothered with a chain guide?

O+ FL
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 17:24 Quote
I run an E13 guide, no issues whatsoever

Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 17:39 Quote
Sunrace and Shimano both make 11-42 10-speed cassettes. For not much more than the 42 extender (and 16 for the middle), You could get a new cassette, but may need a longer cage for the rear derailleur.

The difference in going from a 30t chainring to 34t is like shifting one gear. With a 30, you will climb good but will spin out going fast. I run 36t with 11-40, but no mountains to climb, just hills. My rear is 11-13-16-19-21-24-28-32-36-40. There is a big jump from 13 to 16, but not much from 19 to 21 (it is all about ratios). Sunrace makes 11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32-36-42; Shimano has 37 instead of 36.

Depending on how you ride, you may just need 1X11-36. Some nuts ride single speeds. I rarely use my 40, but sometimes wish I had a higher gear. I plan to go 38t with 11-42 one day.

My 2nd bike is 3X9 (44/32/22 and 11-32). That bike has much more range. 44 is great on roads, 32 on trails, and since I don’t have mountains, 22 never gets used. 32 turning 32 is all I need for climbs, same as 36 turning 36 and why I don’t use my 40 rear hardly ever. However, 36 turning 11 is about 2 gear changes less than 44 turning 11 and a big difference when going fast. If I lived in CO, I would keep it a 2X or go SRAM 10-42 or Eagle 10-50 with 34t chainring.

O+ FL
Posted: Mar 14, 2018 at 18:00 Quote
If you are going to run the 36 rear cassette, I would go with a 32 up front. But it really depends on the hills around where you live.
Most of the trails I ride around here in SOCAL have frequent 15% + grades. So I run a 32 up front and a 42 in the back and still have some trouble on the steeper climbs.

If you don't have any hills that are steeper than lets say 8% then you can be fine with a 34 up front.

If you get a narrow/wide front chainring and you have a clutch on your rear derailleur you should not need a chain guide. I put in 1500+ miles last year on XC , Trail, Jump and DH trails and never dropped a chain.

My set up is a XT 11spd Rear derailleur, new XT chain, XT 11-42 rear with a raceface 32t Narrow/Wide front.

Good luck with your switch to a 1x

Posted: Mar 15, 2018 at 0:21 Quote
Could keep the granny gear on. Still ditch the mech ect. (Personally I'd go 32) fit a nw ring. Then if your struggling manualy drop it onto the granny for long slogs. Have a rest at the top swop it back. Will at least give you some time to work out what's right for you without wasting a ride.
Yes there is a noticeable difference between each size especially climbing, And everyone is so different. Slow power, spin yer arse off type
How long are your rides ect.

A 650b bike with a 30t front ring and a typical 11t rear will spin out at 30mph. 32 is 33mph (ish)
Thats what I clocked anyway.
Dunno if you need more.

Try doing your normal ride using only your 36. If it's a total no way not gonna happen you can rule out a 34.

Posted: Mar 15, 2018 at 7:12 Quote
Markg1150 gave you the best advice for your cheapest route. Just buy a 32t NW chainring (as low as $15) and put it where your 36 was. Take off front derailleur, but keep the 22 and manually swap the chain if you ever need it.

Go ride your bike in 2nd highest gear (36/13, it will be really close to 32/11). If you are satisfied with that being your highest gear, then the 32 will be fine. If 3rd is all you ever need (36/15), you could go 28 or 30 and probably won’t need to keep the 22 on.

On the low end, climb in 22/24 (assuming your cassette is 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36, 7th cog), with 32/36 you will climb slightly better, but that is as low as you can go. If you need as low as 22/28 (8th cog) you could go as low as 28t chainring (they make them to fit where your 22 and 36 go). But 28/11 is close to 36/15, so you loose 2 high gears and 2 low gears. The 32t chainring will loose 1 high and 3 low over your current 2X, but keeping the 22 gets the low back if you need them. However you do it, the 1X is giving up about 4 effective gears (you really don’t have 20 due to overlaps, 22/21 is almost the same as 36/36).

Posted: Mar 15, 2018 at 11:48 Quote
Three6ty wrote:
If you are going to run the 36 rear cassette, I would go with a 32 up front. But it really depends on the hills around where you live.
Most of the trails I ride around here in SOCAL have frequent 15% + grades. So I run a 32 up front and a 42 in the back and still have some trouble on the steeper climbs.

If you don't have any hills that are steeper than lets say 8% then you can be fine with a 34 up front.

If you get a narrow/wide front chainring and you have a clutch on your rear derailleur you should not need a chain guide. I put in 1500+ miles last year on XC , Trail, Jump and DH trails and never dropped a chain.

My set up is a XT 11spd Rear derailleur, new XT chain, XT 11-42 rear with a raceface 32t Narrow/Wide front.

Good luck with your switch to a 1x

Thanks for the input. Really appreciate it. There aren't really any mountains with MTB tracks in Auckland, NZ. Mainly hills which aren't even that long of a ride... maybe 10-15 minutes max? I think a 32T would be a good middle ground maybe.

How is the Raceface NW chainring? That is the exact chainring I was looking at getting.

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