Powered by Outside

Bleed Brakes

  • Previous Page
Author Message
flag Bikespot
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 9:39 Quote
I have looked at tutorials on this to see if i did something different or what not. I'm trying to bleed my brakes because i think some of the flooded leaded out and there weren't grabbing as hard.

I got Hayes Nine brakes , what i did was take the little bleed cap out of the lever , then i used a syringe at the caliper part with a hose , i loosed that nut on the caliper then just pumped the fluid all that way through. Yes i am using DOT 3 brake fluid.

I did this a bunch of times , and now the brakes barely move. Not enough to grab the rotor enough. When i pump it i can hear some mushing going on in the caliper. There must be air in it somewhere. What do you sugguest?
flag driver-bob
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 9:57 Quote
Sound like they are full of air.

Open the lever bleed hole and then start taping the caliper and brakes lines to try and get the air up and out of the system. Also, with the pistons imobilized push the brake lever in slowly and release it quickly. This will help suck up the air as well.

Then bleed again.....

If you really don't have any joy after this it's time to pay someone to do it properly.

Bleeding brakes, even stubborn ones, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.
flag driver-bob
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 9:59 Quote
A nother thought, if they initially weren't grabbing as hard it may not be the brake thats the problem.

You may have glazed over the brake pads.

A quick rub with some emery paper would have bought them back to life without having to touch the brake.
flag Bikespot
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 10:40 Quote
driver-bob wrote:
Sound like they are full of air.

Open the lever bleed hole and then start taping the caliper and brakes lines to try and get the air up and out of the system. Also, with the pistons imobilized push the brake lever in slowly and release it quickly. This will help suck up the air as well.

Then bleed again.....

If you really don't have any joy after this it's time to pay someone to do it properly.

Bleeding brakes, even stubborn ones, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

I will try that when i get around to it.

The brakes pads are fine , its the part about them not closing enough.
flag konastinky02
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 10:45 Quote
Bikespot wrote:
driver-bob wrote:
Sound like they are full of air.

Open the lever bleed hole and then start taping the caliper and brakes lines to try and get the air up and out of the system. Also, with the pistons imobilized push the brake lever in slowly and release it quickly. This will help suck up the air as well.

Then bleed again.....

If you really don't have any joy after this it's time to pay someone to do it properly.

Bleeding brakes, even stubborn ones, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

I will try that when i get around to it.

The brakes pads are fine , its the part about them not closing enough.
or the piston is broken thats what happened to mine i need new brakes now cause its cheaper to do that
flag Bikespot
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 14:42 Quote
I tried a few more times , i did try different things to try and get the air out , but it still not doing its job.

The cup things move just a little when you squeeze the brake all the way. I can still hear air or something inside when you pull the lever.

When i do i'm putting it in from the caliper at the bottom , then squeeze and it comes out the lever bleed hole.... how can there still be air in there.
flag driver-bob
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 15:12 Quote
you'd be amazed...tap those hoses, air will come out.
flag jonbikes
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 17:17 Quote
There's still air in there, trust me. If you aren't already, use a LARGE syringe, 60cc or more, instead of a little wimpy one. This will allow you to push a LOT more fluid through than is needed to fill the system, making it easy to get the air out. Make sure that you tap the syringe to get all the air out, and make sure the caliper is the lowest point and the hole at the lever is the highest point. As you are pushing fluid in, tap the caliper, hoses, and lever body; keep pushing fluid through until the bubbles stop.
flag trailer
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 17:24 Quote
dose the LBS sell the bleeder kits?
flag jonbikes
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 17:32 Quote
The bleed kit that Hayes puts out is crap IMO. Just go with the large syringe and length of hose method, works better than the system you can buy from Hayes for around 30 bucks.

I'm just going to throw this out there, but you guys need to learn how to use the search. I believe this is the third thread in under a week that I personally have replied to, on bleeding Hayes brakes.
flag trailer
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 17:52 Quote
jonbikes wrote:
The bleed kit that Hayes puts out is crap IMO. Just go with the large syringe and length of hose method, works better than the system you can buy from Hayes for around 30 bucks.

I'm just going to throw this out there, but you guys need to learn how to use the search. I believe this is the third thread in under a week that I personally have replied to, on bleeding Hayes brakes.

hey man, i didnt make my own thred. i searched. whats good for hose? and i get how to slid the hose onto the bleeder screw but how dose the hose fit on to the drain in the lever?
flag jonbikes
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 18:12 Quote
trailer wrote:
jonbikes wrote:
The bleed kit that Hayes puts out is crap IMO. Just go with the large syringe and length of hose method, works better than the system you can buy from Hayes for around 30 bucks.

I'm just going to throw this out there, but you guys need to learn how to use the search. I believe this is the third thread in under a week that I personally have replied to, on bleeding Hayes brakes.

hey man, i didnt make my own thred. i searched. whats good for hose? and i get how to slid the hose onto the bleeder screw but how dose the hose fit on to the drain in the lever?


I wasn't directing that comment at you alone, don't worry.

Simply put, there's no good way to cheaply deal with the lever end. In the bleed kit from hayes, the only thing worth getting is their fitting for the lever end. It threads in to the hole, I just can't remember if it comes with a small length of hose or a straw similar to that found on a WD-40 can.
flag Bikespot
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 18:54 Quote
I knew i would get blammed for not searching. So what it keeps the forum alive haa

I will try tomorrow if i feel like it , its not like i need front brakes right now.

I know there is still air in there because you can hear it , i will just use those tips post below and try try again.
flag superbarnes65
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 18:59 Quote
I bleed hayes brakes backwards: i put the squeeze bottle or syringe on top by the lever and then push the fluid through like that. It seems way easier to do imo.
flag Bikespot
Posted: Jul 7, 2008 at 20:06 Quote
superbarnes65 wrote:
I bleed hayes brakes backwards: i put the squeeze bottle or syringe on top by the lever and then push the fluid through like that. It seems way easier to do imo.

I dont understand how you would get all the air out then.... or i could be wrong.


I think there may be a problem more than just air inside , because when i was squeezing it i had the pads out but there are these cup i guess cylinders that push against the pad , its what the pad clips into , well the one kinda came out of the body. I just pushed it back in but i think some of the fluid leaked out the piston thing in the lever.
  • Previous Page

 


Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv56 0.010330
Mobile Version of Website