Now that is beautiful! True FR/Park bike from back in the day. My AC was never build up like this but I had 2 Iron Horse 7Points with basically the same build. Heavy, burly, but with the 2x I could still pedal to the next great section of old school single track DH. Do you still ride this bike? What is the rear travel with the aftermarket rockers? I'm assuming the Marz Bomber is at 170mm or 180mm.
During my latest move I decided that I really should get back into trail riding and ditched all my bikes except a Frankenstein'd Giant AC and a bunch of AC parts I had collected through the years. I found this thread while digging for more information on the bike. Thus, this is my first post!
The AC I have is cobbled together from both AC 1 and AC 2 parts. The previous owner did a number of this thing even before I bought it off of him years ago. Most of the component threads were stripped, the rest were all seemingly glued together or over torqued, the wrong bolts were used in some of the linkages, and the headset on one front triangle had been ovaled so bad by the previous owner that he had JB Welded in a loose ball FSA Pig top cup to get the thing rideable again.
I've finally collected the working parts and started replacing the rest. It's coming together! I've gotta strip the paint and all that but first I've got a "bit" of a problem with the "good" front triangle I'd like to use.
The lower linkage bolts was seized into the frame and had to be drilled out. The drill didn't go through the bolt straight and veered into the frame, thus the hole isn't the straight original hole but two overlapping holes, one through the frame at an angle.
I know, I'm upset too.
So now I've gotta figure out how to fix this. I don't ride all that heavily right now but I'd like to do this as well as I can. Options include:
1. JB Weld. Yeah, I know, let's move on. 2. Get someone with an aluminum braizing rig to fill the gap and then redrill the right hole as it should be. 3. Do the same but with a real aluminum welder.
Both 2 and 3 are going to weaken that entire area of the frame
1 will at least hack it. The JB Weld would be sandwiched between the frame, the pivot bolt, and the spacer on the inside of the chainstay's bearing. It seems like a decent application of JB Weld to me. The stuff wouldn't have anywhere to go...
Any suggestions on fixing this? I'll post pictures when the suns up.
Also, after a bunch of digging, those aftermarket long-travel arms were actually produced by the company betd components in the UK. Rare chance anyone has those (the ones I found on pinkbike were put up back in 2012) but it'd be fun to have a set. I've asked them if they've still got some kicking around in a box or if they'd be willing to send me the CAD files... Who knows!
During my latest move I decided that I really should get back into trail riding and ditched all my bikes except a Frankenstein'd Giant AC and a bunch of AC parts I had collected through the years. I found this thread while digging for more information on the bike. Thus, this is my first post!
The AC I have is cobbled together from both AC 1 and AC 2 parts. The previous owner did a number of this thing even before I bought it off of him years ago. Most of the component threads were stripped, the rest were all seemingly glued together or over torqued, the wrong bolts were used in some of the linkages, and the headset on one front triangle had been ovaled so bad by the previous owner that he had JB Welded in a loose ball FSA Pig top cup to get the thing rideable again.
I've finally collected the working parts and started replacing the rest. It's coming together! I've gotta strip the paint and all that but first I've got a "bit" of a problem with the "good" front triangle I'd like to use.
The lower linkage bolts was seized into the frame and had to be drilled out. The drill didn't go through the bolt straight and veered into the frame, thus the hole isn't the straight original hole but two overlapping holes, one through the frame at an angle.
I know, I'm upset too.
So now I've gotta figure out how to fix this. I don't ride all that heavily right now but I'd like to do this as well as I can. Options include:
1. JB Weld. Yeah, I know, let's move on. 2. Get someone with an aluminum braizing rig to fill the gap and then redrill the right hole as it should be. 3. Do the same but with a real aluminum welder.
Both 2 and 3 are going to weaken that entire area of the frame
1 will at least hack it. The JB Weld would be sandwiched between the frame, the pivot bolt, and the spacer on the inside of the chainstay's bearing. It seems like a decent application of JB Weld to me. The stuff wouldn't have anywhere to go...
Any suggestions on fixing this? I'll post pictures when the suns up.
Also, after a bunch of digging, those aftermarket long-travel arms were actually produced by the company betd components in the UK. Rare chance anyone has those (the ones I found on pinkbike were put up back in 2012) but it'd be fun to have a set. I've asked them if they've still got some kicking around in a box or if they'd be willing to send me the CAD files... Who knows!
Welcome to the thread. Easiest thing would be for you to post pics of all parts & pieces. Sound like the start of a good build.
After buying my AC for 400$, riding it to work every day last winter with a 1500 watt mid drive, turns out I like mountain biking! Great bike, love blasting the local trails on this thing! Another few weeks of fun then it's getting converted back to an electric winter commuter!
After buying my AC for 400$, riding it to work every day last winter with a 1500 watt mid drive, turns out I like mountain biking! Great bike, love blasting the local trails on this thing! Another few weeks of fun then it's getting converted back to an electric winter commuter!
Nice, welcome to the thread. Let's see a pic of the conversion when its done.
I bought this frame about a year ago. The only drawback was the lack of a derailleur hanger and a supposedly cracked chainstay. It was sold with both the stock, unused chain guide and the shock. I paid 75€ for this and a quick exam confirmed the cracked chainstay. Had it welded for free. The welder also noticed a crack on the left hand chainstay, close to the disc brake tab which he kindly fixed. Once I got it back I just sprayed the main triangle and reassembled the rear triangle. Unfortunately, the shock leaked oil when I first sitted on the bike. I replaced it with a Rock Shox Bar from another bike. Finished building it this afternoon and went for a quick ride. Even though this frame is shorter than my other bikes I don't feel cramped on it. I just feel there is too much weight on the rear wheel. Will probably fit a smaller fork (140-150mm instead of 160). The ride went fine and I have to admit it was a bit strange to ride a fully again.
I bought this frame about a year ago. The only drawback was the lack of a derailleur hanger and a supposedly cracked chainstay. It was sold with both the stock, unused chain guide and the shock. I paid 75€ for this and a quick exam confirmed the cracked chainstay. Had it welded for free. The welder also noticed a crack on the left hand chainstay, close to the disc brake tab which he kindly fixed. Once I got it back I just sprayed the main triangle and reassembled the rear triangle. Unfortunately, the shock leaked oil when I first sitted on the bike. I replaced it with a Rock Shox Bar from another bike. Finished building it this afternoon and went for a quick ride. Even though this frame is shorter than my other bikes I don't feel cramped on it. I just feel there is too much weight on the rear wheel. Will probably fit a smaller fork (140-150mm instead of 160). The ride went fine and I have to admit it was a bit strange to ride a fully again.
Looks like quite the bargain! I'd convert to 1x asap and a 150 mm fork works great on these bikes. Lots of great builds and details on how to build up the AC frame in this thread so dig-in and enjoy reading the old posts. Cheers
Hi AC enthusiats. im selling my AC frame for 150$ with a nice Fox Float 2014 CTD. if anyone interested PM me il send some pics too. color black and silver. negotiable