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Chromag Rootdown & Surface (and maybe Primer) Builds

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Chromag Rootdown & Surface (and maybe Primer) Builds
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flag bkchef2000
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Posted: Aug 3, 2020 at 8:05 Quote
I was able to find an assegai in 2.5 exo+ and an aggressor 2.5 dd casing for the rear. Should be solid combo, I’ve been off Maxxis for about 2 years and am actually looking forward to getting back on them. They are just predictable. My e13’s are fine tires but I can roll them so easily on a 30mm rim. Change is good.
flag eayres
Posted: Aug 3, 2020 at 18:36 Quote
freaking loving the rootdown. Tried to go as American built/designed as possible per my limited budget

Been riding a gravel bike (700 x 42) on all the West Texas and New Mexico trails for months (Carson, Big Bend State Ranch). Was worried this whip would take away from the fun with that 150mm of travel , but been a seriously fun ride so far.




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flag piman
Posted: Aug 3, 2020 at 19:37 Quote
Gum walls look dope
flag hani12
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Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 12:32 Quote
Soliciting ideas on paint job for my root down frame. I have two 2016 M/L frames, one of which i want to paint then I'll sell the other one (which is the original bright orange if anyone is interested).

I have been thinking about a DIY job doing a tinted clear coat. But in reading up i see mixed opinions about a clear coat being enough to protect against rust. Would love if anyone has experience doing a DIY clear-coat on raw steel.




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flag KyRob
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Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 13:49 Quote
eayres wrote:
freaking loving the rootdown. Tried to go as American built/designed as possible per my limited budget

Been riding a gravel bike (700 x 42) on all the West Texas and New Mexico trails for months (Carson, Big Bend State Ranch). Was worried this whip would take away from the fun with that 150mm of travel , but been a seriously fun ride so far.



I'm in West Texas working right now. I've been trying to find more fun places to bring my Primer. Right now I'm just riding Big Spring state park and the Odessa mountain bike park.

Do you know any good spots? I might head to angel fire one day when I have some free time.

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flag robbiekane
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Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 14:44 Quote
hani12 wrote:
Soliciting ideas on paint job for my root down frame. I have two 2016 M/L frames, one of which i want to paint then I'll sell the other one (which is the original bright orange if anyone is interested).

I have been thinking about a DIY job doing a tinted clear coat. But in reading up i see mixed opinions about a clear coat being enough to protect against rust. Would love if anyone has experience doing a DIY clear-coat on raw steel.




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I don’t have any experience painting clear coat on raw steel frames, but I do have experience painting clear coat on carbon parts. I also have a clear coated Doctahawk without a tint. Looks badass IMO, but doesn’t last long. It’ll last a year at best and that’s a frame that was painted with a very experienced frame painter. The rust is starting to appear in spots after owning it for less than a year. I even wipe a little WD40 on the frame after I wash it just to prevent any of the scratches from rusting. Did that to my Primer and it seemed to help make it last longer.
flag robbiekane
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Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 14:46 Quote
What kind of clear coat paint were you thinking of using?
flag soloknight6
Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 15:34 Quote
Rules for painting a raw frame:

1.) 600 grit or equivalent abrasion of the surface to give the clear something to bite into.

2.) Use an adhesion promoter (I have had good success with Bulldog products.)

3.) Use a quality 2 part (requires an activator) acrylic clear coat, this is very important. I prefer USC spray max 2k clears, best quality aerosol can clears I have ever used.

Hope that helps! Oh, and once the paint has fully cured after a few days, use a quality automotive wax or paint sealer to help protect the frame a bit more from scuffs and scratches.
flag dirtnerd
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Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 17:25 Quote
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Picked this up from SC38, thank you, it’s awesome!
Over 1300km so far & keeps me smiling.
Made a few small changes, 29+ really works for me & even better with cushcore.
flag SC38
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Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 17:49 Quote
dirtnerd wrote:
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Picked this up from SC38, thank you, it’s awesome!
Over 1300km so far & keeps me smiling.
Made a few small changes, 29+ really works for me & even better with cushcore.

I miss that bike Smile riding a surface Ti and Primer these days. I’m glad to hear you are still enjoying.
flag soloknight6
Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 17:54 Quote
Edit- Thought that Arcturian was a Doctahawk for a second lol. Beautiful bike, those things are rare.
flag sterlingmagnum
Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 18:22 Quote
I would totally go Arcturian next. Been loving 29 plus big time
flag robbiekane
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Posted: Aug 4, 2020 at 21:13 Quote
I like that color of the Acturian! ????
flag hani12
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Posted: Aug 5, 2020 at 8:13 Quote
soloknight6 wrote:
Rules for painting a raw frame:

1.) 600 grit or equivalent abrasion of the surface to give the clear something to bite into.

2.) Use an adhesion promoter (I have had good success with Bulldog products.)

3.) Use a quality 2 part (requires an activator) acrylic clear coat, this is very important. I prefer USC spray max 2k clears, best quality aerosol can clears I have ever used.

Hope that helps! Oh, and once the paint has fully cured after a few days, use a quality automotive wax or paint sealer to help protect the frame a bit more from scuffs and scratches.


Thanks for the info. I was definitely looking at the Spraymax 2k for a base clear and then a final clear coat.

I was looking at Belton transparent spray paints to add some color. Not sure how well this would come out compared to the tinted clear coats. https://artprimo.com/catalog/molotow-transparent-c-26_35_192.html

 


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