I have a 380 ti and it seems to be topping out since I adjusted my settings. The settings I currently have are 14 clicks out on low speed rebound and compression and 7 clicks out on high speed compression and rebound. My forks came with a 6.5 Spring but I put a 7.7 Spring in, not sure if this is part of the problem due to valving. There is also a squeaking sound when it tops out. This is on on the flat, but happens when bunny hopping. I'm about 82kg without kit. It gets better with turning the dial in on high speed rebound but it's slowing the fork too much. Would adding oil help with this issue?
fork just came back from warranty at fox, they said the damper could not be fixed and was replaced.
it came home, was reinstalled, my buddy got a couple squishes in and then rode a long wheelie.....came down from the wheelie made a loud pop and back to square 1, no damping, no compression or rebound lol.
that was one tense call to fox!
Basically fox techs don't know what they're doing yet, or theres a load of defective parts that were offloaded in the sale
fork just came back from warranty at fox, they said the damper could not be fixed and was replaced.
it came home, was reinstalled, my buddy got a couple squishes in and then rode a long wheelie.....came down from the wheelie made a loud pop and back to square 1, no damping, no compression or rebound lol.
that was one tense call to fox!
Basically fox techs don't know what they're doing yet, or theres a load of defective parts that were offloaded in the sale
Hello!
How dit it turn out in the end? Or is the fork still away for service? Does Fox at least honor warranty without too much headache?
sorry for the late reply, fork weight seems accurate, the 380's are light. very plush as well, bit too soft for my liking so I had mine custom tuned j-tech set my forks up with 300ml of oil on the spring side to help with the ramp up, seem to work well so far, the spring swap is easy to do, though I would recommend facing off a six sided socket so it's flat on the end as the alloy fork spring cap has a shallow hex on it and a normal socket could damage the hex if you are not careful with it
Do you think the oil compensates for putting in the heavier 6.5 spring? I'm 150lbs on the 2014 380, and even though the suspension feels amazing, it's a little too supple (the preload is cranked almost to the max).
For reference, as I couldn't find the info anywhere. My 2014 yt tues pro LARGE has a 7.7 (x-firm) titanium spring fitted as standard in the 380 c2r2. I was expecting to find the medium in there, so no need to buy another one now! The rear shock has a 275.
Anyone have a video/instruction on doing an oil change on the 380? I
I removed the preload side spring with a 33mm socket (couldn't figure out how to remove the top cap but the socket was deep enough to leave it on). Is there anything special to take out the C2R2 side or can you just use the socket to that the unit out and do the oil change? Figured I didn't have to separate the stancions/lowers to do the oil change but any tips/help would be appreciated!
For reference, as I couldn't find the info anywhere. My 2014 yt tues pro LARGE has a 7.7 (x-firm) titanium spring fitted as standard in the 380 c2r2. I was expecting to find the medium in there, so no need to buy another one now! The rear shock has a 275. EDIT I had also read a lot about an elastomer limiting the last few inches of travel. I had no such thing in my fork. With the spring removed and the topcap/adjuster refitted, full travel could be obtained.
Interesting, I would like to see the inside of the spring leg and the top cap, if you have it apart.