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TRP DHR Evo caliper bleed port leaking

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TRP DHR Evo caliper bleed port leaking
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flag gkawamura2000
FL
Posted: May 24, 2023 at 20:48 Quote
Anyone else still having the leaking problem? I emailed trp and now they told me not to put loctite on the screw...
flag HeatedRotor
FL
Posted: May 24, 2023 at 22:43 Quote
gkawamura2000 wrote:
Anyone else still having the leaking problem? I emailed trp and now they told me not to put loctite on the screw...

They told me to put loctite on it lol
flag gkawamura2000
FL
Posted: May 25, 2023 at 6:07 Quote
Did that fix the issue? Even after thoroughly cleaning and drying the bolts I couldn't get ot to adhere. Anyone know if you can just but the bleed screws after market? They're sold out at trp
flag HeatedRotor
FL
Posted: May 25, 2023 at 10:20 Quote
gkawamura2000 wrote:
Did that fix the issue? Even after thoroughly cleaning and drying the bolts I couldn't get ot to adhere. Anyone know if you can just but the bleed screws after market? They're sold out at trp

using loctite worked for me the idea is to clean them and put loctite on an let it dry for a bit before putting back in.
flag jray152
Posted: May 25, 2023 at 14:14 Quote
I sold mine and went back to code RSC with Galfer “e-bike” rotors and pads. Pretty happy.
flag hotrozz
Posted: Jun 15, 2023 at 12:18 Quote
Blownoutrides wrote:
HeatedRotor wrote:
Blownoutrides wrote:


Loctite never seems to dry for me, even after days.

Thats because the parts have oil on them. you need clean the bolt and then put on loctite an let it sit before installing

Got it! That’s good info

None of this makes sense to me. Loctite can sit on the threads of the plug indefinitely and never cure because that's how Loctite works. It will never cure in the presence of oxygen.
It's also not going to work if you have oil in the threads before installing the plug, and how would you EVER be able to clean the oil out of the threads before installing it?
flag jray152
Posted: Aug 30, 2023 at 10:05 Quote
Seems that this issue is still present. More people in forums discussing leaking port screw and syringe when bleeding. O-rings are used in almost every other part of the system where fluid is passing between metal, EXCEPT the bleed port.
flag gkawamura2000
FL
Posted: Aug 30, 2023 at 10:32 Quote
Any updates on what people are doing to fix/solve this? Next time i might try a gravity bleed
flag bdreynolds7
O+
Posted: Aug 30, 2023 at 11:51 Quote
I put DHR Evos on my bike not too long ago and one of the calipers leaked right out of the box. It was leaking in between the 2 halves of the caliper too so literally nothing I could have done but squeezing the lever I could see fluid coming out. The company made it right and sent a new caliper with a bleed kit though and the new caliper is perfectly fine.

One thing everyone needs to be aware of when bleeding these brakes is when you remove the bleed screw from the caliper, oil gets in those threads and sits in there even after you re-install and torque the bleed screw. Make damn sure all of the oil is out of every nook and cranny before you put pads and your wheel back on because that oil will find its way out when you are hauling ass downhill and contaminate your pads. That was the issue with my Trail Evos.
flag Buslaw10
O+
Posted: Aug 30, 2023 at 20:15 Quote
bdreynolds7 wrote:
I put DHR Evos on my bike not too long ago and one of the calipers leaked right out of the box. It was leaking in between the 2 halves of the caliper too so literally nothing I could have done but squeezing the lever I could see fluid coming out. The company made it right and sent a new caliper with a bleed kit though and the new caliper is perfectly fine.

One thing everyone needs to be aware of when bleeding these brakes is when you remove the bleed screw from the caliper, oil gets in those threads and sits in there even after you re-install and torque the bleed screw. Make damn sure all of the oil is out of every nook and cranny before you put pads and your wheel back on because that oil will find its way out when you are hauling ass downhill and contaminate your pads. That was the issue with my Trail Evos.

This happened to me and TRP sent me another caliper. It’s weird that the front has no issues but the rear are the one with the issues.
flag bdreynolds7
O+
Posted: Aug 31, 2023 at 3:27 Quote
Buslaw10 wrote:
bdreynolds7 wrote:
I put DHR Evos on my bike not too long ago and one of the calipers leaked right out of the box. It was leaking in between the 2 halves of the caliper too so literally nothing I could have done but squeezing the lever I could see fluid coming out. The company made it right and sent a new caliper with a bleed kit though and the new caliper is perfectly fine.

One thing everyone needs to be aware of when bleeding these brakes is when you remove the bleed screw from the caliper, oil gets in those threads and sits in there even after you re-install and torque the bleed screw. Make damn sure all of the oil is out of every nook and cranny before you put pads and your wheel back on because that oil will find its way out when you are hauling ass downhill and contaminate your pads. That was the issue with my Trail Evos.

This happened to me and TRP sent me another caliper. It’s weird that the front has no issues but the rear are the one with the issues.

Was actually my front caliper that had a leak.
flag Buslaw10
O+
Posted: Aug 31, 2023 at 10:21 Quote
Also my rear brakes also feels a little spongy.
flag mashrv1
O+ FL
Posted: Oct 23, 2023 at 14:45 Quote
gkawamura2000 wrote:
Any updates on what people are doing to fix/solve this? Next time i might try a gravity bleed

I’m on the hunt for the correct sized proper bleed nipple. Original Quadiems have them, but they were dropped to save 2g per caliper. Hoping it’ll make working on them a lot less of a faff
flag gotow
O+
Posted: Apr 2, 2024 at 9:13 Quote
I just went through this with a brand new set of DHR Evos. Oil was weeping out around the bleed port screw on the rear caliper and had fouled the pads by my third ride.

The bleed port screw was WAY over-torqued - to the point that I was worried my torx wrench would snap before the screw broke free, but it did finally come out. At that point I contacted TRP, referenced this thread on PinkBike, and was told NOT to use Loctite. The taper at the base of the screw is supposed to be sufficient to seal it. But tightening the bolt to the recommended 0.5 Nm on mine certainly didn't seal it. It leaked worse than it had originally.

They ended up warrantying my caliper (it'll arrive tomorrow). They did say when they received it at the service center that the bleed port screw had been cross-threaded. I'm certain I didn't cross-thread it putting it back in, since it went in easily. I assume that the ridiculous torque I had to apply to free the screw in the first place was indicative of it having been cross-threaded at the factory. They said they'd take care of me this time, regardless, though they didn't consider it a warranty issue because of the cross-threaded screw (!).

Anyway, I wrote this to make a couple of points:

1. TRP doesn't recommend using Loctite on the bleed port screw
2. Take lots of pictures. They may warranty it, depending on the circumstances.

and one question:

1. Has anyone else encountered the bleed port screw being ridiculously tight? I'm afraid to check the screw in the front caliper for fear of it leaking afterwards - though I guess I'll eventually have to bleed it and will find out then :-/

- Jon
flag mashrv1
O+ FL
Posted: Apr 4, 2024 at 10:47 Quote
For anyone interested - Hope bleed nipple part no HBSP033 is a direct replacement for the TRP screw/bung

 


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