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Hayes bleeding,

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Hayes bleeding,
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flag dubbmx
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 10:11 Quote
i did mine perfect and it only cost me £2.99 for the dot4 i just used a old syringe to get all the air out of the master cylinder and it couldnt be easier.
I had to cut the hose down thats the only reason i bled it. but still
flag eyun
O+
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 10:19 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
Thats all well and good, but you are bleeding them backwards. You should be forcing fluid from the caliper side according to Hayes.

and according to whatever laws cause air bubbles to rise to the top.
flag DARKSTAR63
O+
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 10:22 Quote
eyun wrote:
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
Thats all well and good, but you are bleeding them backwards. You should be forcing fluid from the caliper side according to Hayes.

and according to whatever laws cause air bubbles to rise to the top.

Lol, yeah there is that.
flag whyted
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 10:29 Quote
Yep, but when it's all said and done there isn't any air in the lines and the brakes work, and I saved about 23 bucks. Worth breaking the rules in my book.
flag DARKSTAR63
O+
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 10:35 Quote
You can do it correctly for 2 bucks. Just put the syringe to the other side using a small hose.
flag DARKSTAR63
O+
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 10:36 Quote
People should also be aware that places like Jensonusa sell bleed kits for 12 u.s dollers. There must be other mail order places that carry the kits if your not in the states for about that much.
flag mserko
O+
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 11:01 Quote
Just looked on jensonusa and the hayes bleed kit is $30.
flag proxx
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 11:04 Quote
Hi guys.
Official Hayes bleed kit costs way to much (like 15 euros or 20 bucks). The problem is that DOT4 that they sell is nothing more than what you can buy at your local petrol station for 2 bucks or so. If you happen to find Hayes DOT4 without bleed kit it still costs way too much. The same is with fork oils. Mobil, Motul & similar sell fork oils for less than 1/4 of the price Finish Line wants for it. So maybe Finish Line produces oils at WC level? You gotta be kidding.

SO

think about how much should all this plastic stuff (those little tubes and fittings) cost? 1 buck? 2?

i bought intravenous drip set and plastic syringe for few cents. then had to find what suits the lever bleed hole. guess what. shimano sis cable ending fits great. I connected it to a tube with a zip tie. I also used zip tie for securing tube to bleeding screw in caliper. tadam, now I have my Hayes bleed kit for few cents.

everything works perfect, you just have to know how to bleed brakes.


sometimes you have to be a little creative. Smile
flag DARKSTAR63
O+
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 11:15 Quote
Wow yeah, 30 is a scam. I bought mine from them for 12 but it wasnt the "Pro Bleed Kit" with that fancy box, it was the mini kit like you get with any hayes brake. They were selling the regular kit for awhile.
flag whyted
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 11:43 Quote
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
You can do it correctly for 2 bucks. Just put the syringe to the other side using a small hose.

Yeah man, whatever works, I didn't have a way to fit the syringe to the bleeder valve so I went from the top. As long as you keep pressure on the syringe during the whole process, open the bleeder valve, force fluid through, and close the valve without taking the pressure off the syringe you end up with correctly bled brakes.
flag proxx
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 13:09 Quote
whyted wrote:
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
You can do it correctly for 2 bucks. Just put the syringe to the other side using a small hose.

Yeah man, whatever works, I didn't have a way to fit the syringe to the bleeder valve so I went from the top. As long as you keep pressure on the syringe during the whole process, open the bleeder valve, force fluid through, and close the valve without taking the pressure off the syringe you end up with correctly bled brakes.

still I recommend figuring out how to do it properly.
flag whyted
Posted: Jul 28, 2009 at 15:45 Quote
proxx wrote:
whyted wrote:
DARKSTAR63 wrote:
You can do it correctly for 2 bucks. Just put the syringe to the other side using a small hose.

Yeah man, whatever works, I didn't have a way to fit the syringe to the bleeder valve so I went from the top. As long as you keep pressure on the syringe during the whole process, open the bleeder valve, force fluid through, and close the valve without taking the pressure off the syringe you end up with correctly bled brakes.

still I recommend figuring out how to do it properly.

What isn't proper about that? With the hayes kit they give you a squeeze bottle, you fill it with brake fluid and squeeze it into the line from the bottom bleeder valve, let it return to it's normal shape and repeat, over and over until no more air bubbles out. It works fine, but why have this guy spend the money on a kit that at best takes four times as long to work you can do it faster, cheaper, and easier?
flag proxx
Posted: Jul 29, 2009 at 1:49 Quote
whyted wrote:
proxx wrote:
whyted wrote:


Yeah man, whatever works, I didn't have a way to fit the syringe to the bleeder valve so I went from the top. As long as you keep pressure on the syringe during the whole process, open the bleeder valve, force fluid through, and close the valve without taking the pressure off the syringe you end up with correctly bled brakes.

still I recommend figuring out how to do it properly.

What isn't proper about that? With the hayes kit they give you a squeeze bottle, you fill it with brake fluid and squeeze it into the line from the bottom bleeder valve, let it return to it's normal shape and repeat, over and over until no more air bubbles out. It works fine, but why have this guy spend the money on a kit that at best takes four times as long to work you can do it faster, cheaper, and easier?

this wasn't my point. I was talking about bleeding from caliper to lever (from bottom to top). I have a ghetto bleeding kit myself (as I wrote before) and it's perfectly fine.
flag whyted
Posted: Jul 29, 2009 at 17:47 Quote
Ah I see, I come from a background of working on cars, and I'm just used to using the valve to control air coming into the line. Guess when I looked at it, it just made the most sense to do it that way. Whatever works, as long as it gets you back out on the bike I supposetup

 


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