Why not switch back to the linear / plush setting? I find the platform to be quite supportive / poppy. Progressive mode felt like too much for me, harsher off the top. I definitely prefer the linear setting and don’t feel like I’m giving up any support if that makes sense.
I’m also running less psi and rebound then recommended. Finally starting to get it where I’m happy.
Quote="BrianColes"]Did some steep rough stuff tonight. Slowed down the rebound, fully opened the compression, maxed out the HBO. It felt better. No hard bottom outs but this trail didn’t have hits.
I’m not sure about the small bump compliance. Buddy has a new slayer with an x2 and it feels buttery off the top. It feels like the Slash needs a lot to get it moving. Riding off curbs, hitting pot holes, or hitting stepped roots on trail all feels like the rear wheel hits hard. There’s an audible whack, it feels harsh, and I believe it affects the tracking. Pushing on the seat in the driveway it’s not a light touch to get it moving. I wouldn’t call it coil like in any way. The x2, I would.
Do I need a rebuild? Do I just need a coil? Do I need to run way lower psi and add spacers?
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Despite all the claims of the Vivid feeling like a coil I came to the conclusion it's not. Small bump was ok, but I would frequently go through the travel. When I added more air the small bump got worse. I just expect this from air shocks. Getting my RS coil dialed in now but it feels better everywhere. That said I do feel like this bike wants to be on the ground and planted so not really what I would call poppy.
Handsomedan, The progressive mode increases the leverage rate at the beginning of the travel. That means it will be easier to get the shock moving. It will not make it harsher off the top, but quite the opposite. If I run less psi and linear, I seem to go through all the travel.
Ktom, interesting to hear. I just grabbed a dhx2 to try. Need to see if it has frame clearance and find hardware first. Going to also open up the vivid and see if it’s caked in sram butter.
Interesting... I use the Seb Stott set-up guide, I tried the rear shock in the progressive and less progressive settings and preferred the less progressive. I have yet to bottom out, and using Seb's prgression test I can only get through 85% of the travel. Still dialing in compression. I'll have to go back and try the more progressive setting and see how it goes as the season progresses and I'm riding harder.
Overall I'm pretty happy with the rear suspension, but am still figuring out the fork. With sag set to 25% and all the tokens out I can barely get 75% of the available travel using Seb's progression test. Might bump the sag up to 30% and see how that feels.
Where is Seb’s set up guide?sounds worth looking at.
I ride a lot of steep trails and find myself always preferring a much stiffer fork than recommended otherwise it dives and I tend to get back seat to compensate. I also only ever want to use all my fork travel on that one instance per year where I would be doing the biggest push up to save my life.
Agree with you on the fork running higher for riding position.
The vids are from when he was with bike radar, but they are the best I've come across. The first one is meant to give you a quick baseline to work off of. The second one builds on it with compression adjustments etc. to get things more dialled in. I've always been a fan of his explanations.
Has anyone found an alternative to the factory lower shock bolt? It’s quite strange that it is threaded the entire way through. I haven’t noticed any damage with the rock Shox as their hardware seems extra hard but fox stuff is getting chewed up by the threads. I saw this on a new bike that hadn’t been used and my bike after one lap around the yard after I put a dhx2 on it.
Ps. Dhx2 seems to fit with no issue.
Also, has anyone added chain links? In my big east gear, my derailleur is so stretched it’s actually inverter. The lower jockey wheel is above the upper wheel. It doesn’t shift well either.
I called the trek service centre to ask about the updated upper idler cog and also asked about this bolt. It’s the first I’ve ever seen that is threaded all the way through. They didn’t seem fussed about it, so just out of curiosity I emailed rock shox customer service to ask about it for the vivid. Will let you know what I find out when I hear back.
Also, I’m running 11 speed with a 46 tooth big cog on the cassette, so had to figure out my own chain length. I took all the air out of the shock and cycled it at a given chain length then took out two links at a time until it was just right. Has worked well.
I called the trek service centre to ask about the updated upper idler cog and also asked about this bolt. It’s the first I’ve ever seen that is threaded all the way through. They didn’t seem fussed about it, so just out of curiosity I emailed rock shox customer service to ask about it for the vivid. Will let you know what I find out when I hear back.
Also, I’m running 11 speed with a 46 tooth big cog on the cassette, so had to figure out my own chain length. I took all the air out of the shock and cycled it at a given chain length then took out two links at a time until it was just right. Has worked well.
I called the trek service centre to ask about the updated upper idler cog and also asked about this bolt. It’s the first I’ve ever seen that is threaded all the way through. They didn’t seem fussed about it, so just out of curiosity I emailed rock shox customer service to ask about it for the vivid. Will let you know what I find out when I hear back.
Also, I’m running 11 speed with a 46 tooth big cog on the cassette, so had to figure out my own chain length. I took all the air out of the shock and cycled it at a given chain length then took out two links at a time until it was just right. Has worked well.
How did you determine the proper chain length on this?
I can’t post pics so I will message you the lower bolt photo.
I called the trek service centre to ask about the updated upper idler cog and also asked about this bolt. It’s the first I’ve ever seen that is threaded all the way through. They didn’t seem fussed about it, so just out of curiosity I emailed rock shox customer service to ask about it for the vivid. Will let you know what I find out when I hear back.
Also, I’m running 11 speed with a 46 tooth big cog on the cassette, so had to figure out my own chain length. I took all the air out of the shock and cycled it at a given chain length then took out two links at a time until it was just right. Has worked well.
V2 upper Idler ETA is April 29th
What does the new upper idler do? I have 585 miles on my 9.8 XT with no chain drops. I figure if it's not broke don't fix it
I called the trek service centre to ask about the updated upper idler cog and also asked about this bolt. It’s the first I’ve ever seen that is threaded all the way through. They didn’t seem fussed about it, so just out of curiosity I emailed rock shox customer service to ask about it for the vivid. Will let you know what I find out when I hear back.
Also, I’m running 11 speed with a 46 tooth big cog on the cassette, so had to figure out my own chain length. I took all the air out of the shock and cycled it at a given chain length then took out two links at a time until it was just right. Has worked well.
V2 upper Idler ETA is April 29th
What does the new upper idler do? I have 585 miles on my 9.8 XT with no chain drops. I figure if it's not broke don't fix it
Taller teeth compared to stock idler. Should help with people running T-type drivetrains from what I’ve heard.