Thanks all. Turns out there isn't an adjustable angle headset available for integrated headtubes anyways, regardless of the knock block. Back to the drawing board.
After reading this thread, I still can't figure out if its possible to get rid of the knockblock limitation by just removing the knockblock chip... would that work? I'll wait for a response before trying it. I transport my Fuel in my car with front wheel removed, but since the knockblock does not allow the bike to lie flat, it's much more cumbersome to load the bike unlike bikes without the dumb knockblock.
After reading this thread, I still can't figure out if its possible to get rid of the knockblock limitation by just removing the knockblock chip... would that work? I'll wait for a response before trying it. I transport my Fuel in my car with front wheel removed, but since the knockblock does not allow the bike to lie flat, it's much more cumbersome to load the bike unlike bikes without the dumb knockblock.
You could always loosen the stem and turn the bars. The 2021 knock block (2.0) allows for more travel than 2020 or earlier.
You might be interested in this at 3:36-4:30 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5zH4baY0WY
Read the instructions for the Slack-R, as well: https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=55
After reading this thread, I still can't figure out if its possible to get rid of the knockblock limitation by just removing the knockblock chip... would that work? I'll wait for a response before trying it. I transport my Fuel in my car with front wheel removed, but since the knockblock does not allow the bike to lie flat, it's much more cumbersome to load the bike unlike bikes without the dumb knockblock.
You could always loosen the stem and turn the bars. The 2021 knock block (2.0) allows for more travel than 2020 or earlier.
You might be interested in this at 3:36-4:30 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5zH4baY0WY
Read the instructions for the Slack-R, as well: https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=55
I don't want to buy any new components - can I simply remove the knock block chip and achieve the same thing?
if you want your fork to clear the frame try reverse components (10mm spacer) or Production privee (18mm spacer). I have the 18mm on my 2020 rail. The fork clears the frame and the knock block can be removed. Just be aware that the spacing on the top of the fork is affected. The reverse components doesn't clear the frame, at least on a 2018 trek remedy.
if you want your fork to clear the frame try reverse components (10mm spacer) or Production privee (18mm spacer). I have the 18mm on my 2020 rail. The fork clears the frame and the knock block can be removed. Just be aware that the spacing on the top of the fork is affected. The reverse components doesn't clear the frame, at least on a 2018 trek remedy.
Is the Production Privee 18mm spacer compatible with the Rail's lower headset bearings? I was unable to find specs to confirm. Thanks!
I would like to remove ghe knockblock on my 2021 Trek remedy, so that it can do barspins and x ups e.t.c. I was wondering if there was anything that spsced the fork a few mm lower so that it would clear the downtube?
I would like to remove ghe knockblock on my 2021 Trek remedy, so that it can do barspins and x ups e.t.c. I was wondering if there was anything that spsced the fork a few mm lower so that it would clear the downtube?
Im pretty sue that you can use a spacer of sorts, i saw a guy on youtube turn his fuel ex into a barspin machine. look for his video on youtube
After reading this thread, I still can't figure out if its possible to get rid of the knockblock limitation by just removing the knockblock chip... would that work? I'll wait for a response before trying it. I transport my Fuel in my car with front wheel removed, but since the knockblock does not allow the bike to lie flat, it's much more cumbersome to load the bike unlike bikes without the dumb knockblock.
It would work but you risk blowing blasting your downtube! That's what Mitch@Trek Says...
Anyone tried successfully removing the knock bloc and replacing with a standard headset? Or even better, replacing with an angleset? If so, what level of success did you have? What are the specific bearing sizes (top and bottom)?
I understand the risk but I'm willing to take the chance ... I just want to slacken out my HA and install a 10mm longer fork.
Just wanted to jump in here. We don't advise an Angleset HS with the Knock Block HS as the two would not interface. Removing the Knock Block is also not a good idea since you risk the fork crown hitting the frame. If you are just trying to run your own stem, purchase the Knock Block Lockring Spacer (545523) and put it at the bottom of your stack and throw your stem of choice on top.
-Mitch
he, and everyone else, wants to remove the knockblock because it sucks. it's a bandaid on bad engineering, and it makes your bikes ride worse. design the frame so that you dont have to try and sell engineering cover-ups as a "feature". literally everyone else manages to design their frames so that the crown doesn't hit the downtube.
Anyone tried successfully removing the knock bloc and replacing with a standard headset? Or even better, replacing with an angleset? If so, what level of success did you have? What are the specific bearing sizes (top and bottom)?
I understand the risk but I'm willing to take the chance ... I just want to slacken out my HA and install a 10mm longer fork.
Just wanted to jump in here. We don't advise an Angleset HS with the Knock Block HS as the two would not interface. Removing the Knock Block is also not a good idea since you risk the fork crown hitting the frame. If you are just trying to run your own stem, purchase the Knock Block Lockring Spacer (545523) and put it at the bottom of your stack and throw your stem of choice on top.
-Mitch
he, and everyone else, wants to remove the knockblock because it sucks. it's a bandaid on bad engineering, and it makes your bikes ride worse. design the frame so that you dont have to try and sell engineering cover-ups as a "feature". literally everyone else manages to design their frames so that the crown doesn't hit the downtube.
everyone else manages to design their frames so that the crown doesn't hit the downtube.
Yeah but how do they manage to get their trail bikes insignificantly stiffer without making the downtube interfere with the fork? All those other bikes are unrideable noodles you know.
Just wanted to jump in here. We don't advise an Angleset HS with the Knock Block HS as the two would not interface. Removing the Knock Block is also not a good idea since you risk the fork crown hitting the frame. If you are just trying to run your own stem, purchase the Knock Block Lockring Spacer (545523) and put it at the bottom of your stack and throw your stem of choice on top.
-Mitch
he, and everyone else, wants to remove the knockblock because it sucks. it's a bandaid on bad engineering, and it makes your bikes ride worse. design the frame so that you dont have to try and sell engineering cover-ups as a "feature". literally everyone else manages to design their frames so that the crown doesn't hit the downtube.
Thanks for your feedback.
-Mitch
I've got a new bike that is not a trek so no knock block. Miss it a lot, never had a problem out riding with knock block either.
Anyone tried successfully removing the knock bloc and replacing with a standard headset? Or even better, replacing with an angleset? If so, what level of success did you have? What are the specific bearing sizes (top and bottom)?
I understand the risk but I'm willing to take the chance ... I just want to slacken out my HA and install a 10mm longer fork.
Just wanted to jump in here. We don't advise an Angleset HS with the Knock Block HS as the two would not interface. Removing the Knock Block is also not a good idea since you risk the fork crown hitting the frame. If you are just trying to run your own stem, purchase the Knock Block Lockring Spacer (545523) and put it at the bottom of your stack and throw your stem of choice on top.